Lovely historical walking tour of the workhouse at St Finbarr’s Hospital on Douglas Road, last Saturday 22 June 2013
Kieran’s Farewell to Lord Mayor Speech, Cork City Council AGM, 21 June 2013
Fate, Faith and Freedom
Lord Mayor I would like to start with a quote:
“So Ireland is still old Ireland but it has found a new mission and that is to lead the free world to join with other countries in the free world to do what Ireland did in the early part of this century and indeed has done for the last 800 years and that is to associate itself intimately with the principle of freedom”. John F Kennedy, Friday morning 28 June 1963, Concert Hall, Cork City Hall.
Congratulations on a great year Lord Mayor. Congrats on your mission. In a building filled with memories of what it means to be free, in a room filled with artefacts and documents about freedom, and with a chain made to represent the identity of its citizens perhaps the word freedom pervades your year in office. I was struck by the concept of freedom and citizenship even more at the recent freedom of the city event and your comments in framing the position of the arts in the city and region and its multiple connections to the concept of the freedom of expression.
In your year of office you strongly championed the freedom to express oneself in the arts and in education. You initiated discussions directly and indirectly into the power of freedom – in your well researched and recent Freedom of the City speech, you alluded to freedom as a force that has the power to stop, impress, make one question, wonder, dream, remember, be disturbed, explore and not forget.
There is a faith in the freedom attached to the symbolism of the chain you wear and the symbols within, a faith in the ss links symbolising a sacred office and a faith connected to a symbol of a maritime gate, the city medieval water gate, which for centuries many years served to welcome the Corkonian home or welcome the stranger to a place of not only commerce but one of freedom, ideas and hope.
As a building, its cultural foundations are haunted by the principles of its martyred Lord Mayors, Tomas McCurtain and Terence McSwiney and these echo through the ages. Lord Mayor Cllr MacSwiney in his book Principles of Freedom spoke about people gifted with certain powers of soul and body. That it is of vital importance to the individual and the community that one be given a full opportunity to place a value on developing one’s talent, and quote “to fill one’s place in the world worthily”.
In your own speeches during the year, you alluded to many many people beavering away for no reward but for the advancement of their community and the Lord Mayor’s place to seek out these corners and shine a spotlight of hope on them. McSwiney in his book speaks about the citizen:
Quote: “The citizen will fight for that ideal in obscurity, little heeded–in the open, misunderstood; in humble places, still undaunted; in high places, seizing every vantage point, never crushed, never silent, never despairing, cheering a few comrades with hope for the morrow. And should these few sink in the struggle the greatness of the ideal is proven in the last hour “. End quote
We’ve seen during this year and even this evening, the hope of freedom during protests – that the chain has many faces, some bound up with the idea of Cork identity and citizenship and the other with the chain of politics, sometimes working in tandem with each other and sometimes jarring with each other.
The chain has witnessed it all in its almost 230 year history; it has seen the best and worst of times in this city, its rise and falls and will continue to see the rises and falls. Whether or which the concept of freedom associated with the chain is that of a thriving and resilient space-a space of aspiration for change. The chain seems to carry all of those mixed symbols.
Nearly fifty years ago, this day next week the Cork Lord Mayor, Alderman Seán Casey, TD, opened his address to John F Kennedy by noting “You stand for the weak against the strong, for right against might”. JFK wove his concerns about the cold war and the search for freedom into the story of the Irish War of Independence and Ireland’s inheritance of freedom. And the idea of freedom and its power to transform individuals and society.
During your year, you also spoke at length about how the freedom of one idea can transform a community, can re-invent, can re-imagine and represent a community. It’s amazing how one idea can create new possibilities, new opportunities can create self determination, people of vision, create more ideas, teach new skills, can explore and respond to social and cultural needs. Certainly this is a time which necessitates vision and ideas to support the surrounding community in a time of need and once more a time of change.
I would also like to congratulate the Deputy Lord Mayor Cllr O’Halloran on his work; Cllr O’Halloran also wove aspects of the importance of civic pride, education and building communities in our city, and that even the smallest events in our midst make a difference in our lives.
To conclude Lord Mayor, in his nomination acceptance speech in July 1960, John F Kennedy noted: “Can a nation governed such as ours endure? That is the real question. Have we the nerve and the Will?”.
Certainly during the year Lord Mayor, you carried forward this city with confidence, with passion and even wit in your leadership, courage in your illness and all of that bound to the the city’s hopes and dreams, which burn brightly for the future. This great city keeps moving and the tests of our time demand continuous action.
I wish you well for the future and look forward to your healthy return to the political gladiator arena. Go raibh maith agaibh.
Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 20 June 2013
Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,
Cork Independent, 20 June 2013
Workhouse, JFK and Docklands Tours
Aside from the summer city walking tours running at the moment, I have two suburb walking tours coming up across the next week. Next Saturday morning, 22 June at 12noon in association with the summer garden fete of the Friends of St Finbarr’s Hospital, I will conduct a historical walking tour of St Finbarr’s Hospital with special reference to its workhouse and Great Famine history (meet at gate, free, as part of my community work in the south-east ward). The second tour is the following Friday evening, 28 June at 7pm of Cork Docklands (free) at Kennedy Park, Victoria Road. Special focus will be given on marking the fiftieth anniversary of John F Kennedy coming to Cork and getting Freeman of the City on 28 June 1963. He left Cork by helicopter from the park now named after him. The tour will also take in Albert Road/ Jewtown/ Hibernian Buildings and the city’s docks.
On St Finbarr’s Hospital, I have always admired the view from the entrance gate onto the rolling topography extending to beyond the southern boundaries of the City. Here also is the intersection of the built heritage of Turners Cross, Ballinlough and Douglas. These are Cork’s self sufficient, confident and settled suburbs, which encompass former traditions of market gardening to Victorian and Edwardian housing on the Douglas Road. Then there is the Free State private housing by the Bradley Brothers such as in Ballinlough and Cork Corporation’s social housing developments, designed by Daniel Levie, on Capwell Road. Douglas Road as a routeway has seen many changes over the centuries from being a rough trackway probably to begin with to the gauntlet it has become today during the work and school start and finish hours.
With mid nineteenth century roots, the hospital was the site of the city’s former workhouse but as such here is one of Cork’s and Ireland’s national historic markers. Written in depth over the years by scholars such as Sr M Emmanuel Browne and Colman O’Mahony, many in-depth primary documents have survived to outline the history of the hospital. What shines out are the memories of how people have struggled at this site since its creation in 1841. Other topics perhaps can also be pursued here such as the history of social justice at the site, why and how society takes care of the vulnerable in society and the framing of questions on ideas of giving humanity and dignity to people and how they have evolved over the centuries.
The Hospital serves as a vast repository of memories, symbolism, iconography and cultural debate. Standing at the former workhouse buildings, which opened in December 1841, there is much to think about – humanity and the human experience. The architect to the Poor Law Commissioners in Ireland from 1839 until 1855 was George Wilkinson. Nearly all the workhouses, accommodating between 200 and 2000 persons apiece, were designed in a Tudor domestic idiom, with picturesque gabled entrance buildings which contracted the size and comfortlessness of the institutions which lay behind them. By April 1847 all 130 workhouses were complete, the Douglas Road being one of the first.
With its association with the memory of the Great Famine, there are also many threads of the history of the hospital to interweave – the political, economic and social framework of Ireland at that time plus the on the ground reality of life in the early 1800s – family, cultural contexts, individual portraits. In the present day history books in school, the reader is drawn to very traumatic terms. The recurring visions comprise human destruction, trauma, devastation, loss. One can see why the Great Famine is more on the forgetting list than on the remembering one.
At the same time as the development of the workhouse on Douglas Road was struggling, the city continued to extend its docks area. In the late 1800s, the port of Cork was the leading commercial port of Ireland. The export of pickled pork, bacon, butter, corn, porter, and spirits was considerable. The manufactures of the city were brewing, distilling and coach-building, which were all carried on extensively. I’m a big fan of the different shapes of these wharfs, especially the timber ones that have survived since the 1870s. A myriad of timbers still prop up the wharves in our modern port area, protecting the city from the ebb and flow of the tide and also the river’s erosive qualities. The mixture of styles of buildings etch themselves into the skyline, Add in the tales of ships over the centuries connecting Cork to other places and a community of dockers, and one gets a site which has always looked in a sense beyond its horizons. Indeed, perhaps the theme that runs through the docklands walking tour is about connections and explores sites such as Jewtown, the National Sculpture Factory, the Docks, the old Park Racecourse, and the early story of Fords. All these topics are all about connecting the city to wider themes of exportation and importation of goods, people and ideas into the city through the ages. I hope to have a page on John F Kennedy’s visit to Cork in 1963 next week.
Captions:
696a. Recent sunset on Douglas Road highlighting the workhouse memorial plaque (source: Kieran McCarthy)
McCarthy’s Walking Tours, June 2013
Kieran McCarthy’s summer walking tours of Cork City centre will take place during the month of June, on Tuesday evenings (18th, 25th). The tours begin at the National Monument on the Grand Parade, at 7pm on those evenings and explore the City Centre’s early development on a swamp. The tour costs e.10 per person and children under 12 are free. No booking is required, just turn up on the evening. Further information, if needed, can be attained from Kieran at 0876553389.
On Saturday, 22 June, the Friends of St Finbarr’s Hospital will be holding its annual garden party from 1.30 to 4.30 pm. As part of a whole series of events planned, Cllr Kieran McCarthy invites the general public to take part in a historical walking tour of St. Finbarre’s Hospital at 12noon. (meet at gate; the event is free as part of Cllr McCarthy’s community work). The workhouse, which opened in December 1841, was an isolated place – built beyond the toll house and toll gates, which gave entry to the city and which stood just below the end of the wall of St. Finbarr’s Hospital in the vicinity of the junction of the Douglas and Ballinlough Roads. The Douglas Road workhouse was also one of the first of over 130 workhouses to be designed by the Poor Law Commissioners’ architect George Wilkinson.
To mark the day of the actual fiftieth anniversary of John F Kennedy receiving the freedom of the city and taking off by helicopter from what is now Kennedy Park, Cllr Kieran McCarthy’s tour of Cork Docklands will take place on Friday, 28 June leaving at 7pm from Kennedy Park, Victoria Road (free, 1 1/2 hours). Some of the themes covered in the talk will be John F Kennedy’s visit to Cork and the development of the areas surrounding Albert Road and the Docklands itself.
Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article, 13 June 2013
Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,
Cork Independent, 13 June 2013
Technical Memories (Part 57) – Seán’s Memories
I met Seán Ó Coileáin last year during initial research for the Crawford Municipal Technical Institute. He attended the institute from 1934 for three years. He was originally from Kildorrey in North Cork and moved to Cork City at the age of 15 to live with his uncles so he could further his education. In recent years, he has penned a memoir on his own memories of the city at that time, part of which is a memory of the Crawford Tech. I publish some of his memories this week.
Seán: At the age of 15 [1934], it was decided that something in the artistic line was called for, in deference to my aptitude for drawing. We called first to Sullivan’s Quay, Christian Brothers and Nora, my sister, spoke to the head brother. The upshot was that I was to report there the following week. However it did not stop there and we went on to the School of Art and talked to Hugh C Charde, the principal. After looking at some sample drawings of mine, he said that I was more a draughtsman than an artist. So we proceeded to the Crawford Technical Institute and spoke with the principal John F King. There was no draughtsman course as such, but mechanical drawing would be part of any course. There were three main specialised courses – electrical engineering, motor engineering and building, three year courses and a one year continuation course, which was a kind of introductory course to the three specialised ones. So it was agreed that I would sign for the continuation course. There was an entrance exam, which if passed, by-passed the introductory course, gave a free scholarship into one of the specialised courses. One could save the £1 course fee. It was decided that I should enter for this exam, without any expectation of passing it. The exam took place on 3 September and consisted of Irish, English, arithmetic and freehand drawing.
In the Irish part one question one was to write an essay on “The life of a loaf of bread”, which we had done some time before in Scart NS, which was a big help. The drawing question was to draw a bucket. Next day Nora, my sister, delivered me down to the Tech as I didn’t know the way – over the next three years I got to know every inch of it – up Pouladuff Road, down Evergreen Street, along the Bandon Road, down Pickett’s Lane to Gillabbey, down Bishop Street to Sharman Crawford Street and so to the Tech. I went in the front door to the entrance hall and joined a queue for the principal’s office where on eventual arrival, I faced Mr King across the table. He asked me for my name and informed me that I had a free studentship. I accepted the motor engineering course first but then changed to electrical engineering. The standard in motor engineering was so low that not enough qualified to proceed to second year and a few of the students were transferred to first year electrical at the end of first year.
On Monday 10 December 1934, when I reported at the tech for the start of the course, I found that the whole school was gone to mass at SS Peter’s and Paul’s Church, so I decided I’d better follow. I had not a notion where the church was, and asked directions from someone and repeated the query at every turn and eventually arrived in time to meet the congregation coming out. On returning after lunch, I was directed to an Irish class in a lecture room on the first floor. I wondered what Irish had to do with electricity. Miss Lucey Duggan, a sister of Archdeacon Duggan, and later Professor of Education at UCC was the teacher. When I gave my name, she noted my exam had gone well and remarked on my ability in the Irish language. The next class was woodwork and again I wondered when we’d be introduced to electricity. We signed on in pairs and you more or less remained paired with your co-signee for the term. One lad W H Barafather, seemed to a very decent kind of fellow, so I signed with him. I remember three clever lads from Cobh, Jim Hennessy, Bill Damery and Mill Buckley. I remember John Lee and Edward Davis, John O’Grady. John Kelleher, Jim Hill, Less than half of the 18 in the class graduated to second year and only three of us in the class managed to graduate to third year. It was a tough course.
At physical training, we used to mingle with the motor engineering class. I can only remember two of them, one with the surname Long and the other a big 6’ guy named Capithorne. I used to enjoy the physical training, twice a week, 5pm to 5.30pm, which was mainly swinging on the parallel bars and I became very agile. It used to be carried on in the yard, the high wall of which cut us off from the Protestant Bishop’s garden. A few times when the lads were kicking football in the yard, the ball went over the wall and some of the boys went over after it- a procedure the gardener took umbrage at. The physical training instructor was T O’Sullivan who had a gold pocket watch, which chimed on the hour.
To be continued…
Caption:
695a. Seán Ó Coileáin, Mallow, 2012 (picture: Kieran McCarthy)
Kieran’s Question and Motions and to the City Manager, Cork City Council Meeting, 10 June 2013
Question to the City Manager:
To ask why there has been no physical public consultation sessions in Ballintemple and Blackrock re: The Marina Park plan?; previous large scale projects have always been brought into communities, which are effected and presentations made and displays presented (Cllr Kieran McCarthy)
Motions:
That a commemorative plaque be placed at the site of the former Wesley Chapel on St Patrick’s Street. The Methodist congregation of Cork held their services here for almost two hundred years, from 1805 to 1986. The Heritage Council website notes that “Methodism flourished in Cork during the 18th century and formed an important feature of religious life in the expanding city”. Like many other churches in Cork, Wesley Chapel helped define the cityscape we still see today (Cllr Kieran McCarthy).
That the swings and slides in Fitzgerald’s Park attain maintenance, such as re-greasing all mechanisms (grease is gone gritty), eliminating rust and touching up with paint, power-washing, and repairs, in particular in the big merry-go round as it is derailed thus feels really heavy to push and the single plastic swing as it is missing the traps i.e. health & safety concern (Cllr Kieran McCarthy).
McCarthy’s Walking Tours, June 2013
Kieran McCarthy’s summer walking tours of Cork City centre will take place during the month of June, on Tuesday evenings (11th, 18th, 25th), and Friday evening, 14th. The tours begin at the National Monument on the Grand Parade, at 7pm on those evenings and explore the City Centre’s early development on a swamp. The tour costs e.10 per person and children under 12 are free. No booking is required, just turn up on the evening. Further information, if needed, can be attained from Kieran at 0876553389.
On Saturday, 22 June, the Friends of St Finbarr’s Hospital will be holding its annual garden party from 1.30 to 4.30 pm. As part of a whole series of events planned, Cllr Kieran McCarthy invites the general public to take part in a historical walking tour of St. Finbarre’s Hospital at 12noon. (meet at gate; the event is free as part of Cllr McCarthy’s community work). The workhouse, which opened in December 1841, was an isolated place – built beyond the toll house and toll gates, which gave entry to the city and which stood just below the end of the wall of St. Finbarr’s Hospital in the vicinity of the junction of the Douglas and Ballinlough Roads. The Douglas Road workhouse was also one of the first of over 130 workhouses to be designed by the Poor Law Commissioners’ architect George Wilkinson.
To mark the day of the actual fiftieth anniversary of John F Kennedy receiving the freedom of the city and taking off by helicopter from what is now Kennedy Park, Cllr Kieran McCarthy’s tour of Cork Docklands will take place on Friday, 28 June leaving at 7pm from Kennedy Park, Victoria Road (free, 1 1/2 hours). Some of the themes covered in the talk will be John F Kennedy’s visit to Cork and the development of the areas surrounding Albert Road and the Docklands itself.
McCarthy’s History in Action, 9 June 2013, 2-5pm
McCarthy’s History in Action in association with Ballinlough’s Our Lady of Lourdes National School summer fair will take place at the school on Sunday 9 June 2013 between 2pm and 5pm. The re-enactment event, supported by Cllr Kieran McCarthy, brings history alive for all the family, with the participation of re-enactment groups, storytellers and more.
Cllr McCarthy noted: “The vision for the afternoon is one of encouraging community participation. Join re-enactors to honour the past, where there is much to learn, as one helps build the future; I am encouraging people to actively engage with life around them, as well as examine the history that brought us here. I believe that growth and transformation in society is affected positively by respecting our heritage in this way”.
Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 6 June 2013
Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,
Cork Independent, 6 June 2013
Kieran’s City Walking Tours, June 2013
This year I bring the summer walking tours of Cork City centre back during the month of June, on Tuesday evenings (11th, 18th, 25th), and Friday evening, 14th. The tours begin at the National Monument on the Grand Parade, at 7pm on those evenings and explore the City Centre’s early development on a swamp. The tour costs e.10 per person and children under 12 are free. No booking is required, just turn up on the evening. Further information if needed can be attained from me at 0876553389.
The tour is based on my publication Discover Cork, which was published ten years ago as a guide to the city’s history. In this book I outline the city’s development and it opens with eminent Cork writer Daniel Corkery’s account of the city in his The Threshold of Quiet (1917) which highlights well the physical landscape of Cork City:
“Leaving us, the summer visitor says in his good humoured way that Cork is quite a busy place…as hundrum a collection of odds and ends as ever went by the name of city – are flung higgledy piggledy together into a narrow double-streamed, many bridged river valley, jostled and jostling, so compacted that the mass throws up a froth and flurry that confuses the stray visitor…for him this is Cork”.
One of the distinct questions that arises out of his narrative relates to the query, who could have built such a landscape. It was a combination of native and outside influences, primarily people that shaped its changing townscape and society since its origins as a settlement. The city possesses a unique character derived from a combination of its plan, topography, built fabric and its location. Indeed, it is also a city that is unique among other cities, it is the only one which has experienced all phases of Irish urban development, from circa 600 A.D. to the present day.
The settlement began as a monastic centre in the seventh century, overlooking a series of marshy islands on which the present day city centre grew and flourished; it was transformed into a Viking port and the advent of the Anglo-Normans led to the creation of a prosperous walled town; it grew through the influx of English colonists during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries and suffered the political problems inherent in Irish Society at that time; it was altered significantly again through Georgian and Victorian times when reclamation of its marshes became a priority along with the construction of spacious streets and grand town houses; its docks, warehouses exhibit the impact of the industrial revolution; and in the last one hundred years, Corkonians have witnessed both the growth of extensive suburbs and the rejuvenation of the inner city.
Perhaps, the most important influence in the city’s development is the River Lee, an element which has witnessed the city grow from monastic Cork through the Celtic Tiger City of the twenty-first century. Originally, the city centre was a series of marshy islands, which the Irish for the city, “Corcaigh” translated marshes reflects. The river splits into two channels just west of the city centre, and hence flows around the city centre, leaving it in an island situation. The urban centre was built on the lowest crossing point of the River Lee, where the river meets the sea. Built on the surrounding valleysides of the River Lee, the city’s suburbs are constructs of the twentieth century where a spiralling population dictated Cork’s expansion beyond its municipal boundaries.
Spliced with the city’s physical development is the story of its people and their contribution in making Cork a city whose history is rich and colourful. The characters are astute, confident, and are often rebellious, a distinctive trait of Corkonians through the ages and are remembered in Cork songs, statues, street-names and oral tradition. Corkonians make Cork unique. Their characteristics have been noted through the centuries, from visitors to antiquarian writers. All agree that its people are warm and very sociable. Joking is an essential characteristic of Corkonians. As one antiquarian, Byran Cody in 1859 put it, conversational power is the test of intellectual culture in Cork. A Corkonian is a good talker and the conversation is usually seasoned with spicy anecdotes and pleasant bits of scandal.
A walk through St Patrick Street or affectionately known as ‘Pana’ will reveal the warmth of its people, the rich accent, the hustle and bustle of a great city. As Robert Gibbings, poet and writer put it in 1944, “Cork is the loveliest city in the world, anyone who doesn’t agree with me either was not born there or is prejudiced. The streets are wide, the quays are clean, the bridges are noble and people that you have never met in your life stop you in the street for a conversation”. Not only can each person tell you a story about Cork but its streets, buildings and bridges also do. They echo the rich historic and cultural development of the acclaimed southern capital of Ireland.
Back to technical education each week…
Caption:
694a. Bishop Lucey Park in recent sunshine (picture: Kieran McCarthy)
McCarthy’s Make a Model Boat Project, 1 June 2013
Thanks to everyone who supported McCarthy’s Make a Model Boat Project today (Saturday 1 June). There was a record number of 60 entries and 100 children took part. My thanks to Joya and Donagh from the Ocean to City Maritime Festival who judged all the entries and which the project is linked to.