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Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 21 November 2024

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 21 November 2024

Making an Irish Free State City – Sunbeam Wolsey’s War Years

The Thirteenth Ordinary General Meeting of Sunbeam Wolsey Ltd was held on 12 September, 1941. It revealed methods of circumventing challenges posed by the Second World War. In particular, during the summer of 1941, a complete embargo was placed by the Westminister government on the export of Australian wool to Ireland. As a result it was initially feared that only half of the Combing Plant could be utilised. So Irish wool was used. A closer study  found that Irish wool was of infinitely better quality than had been anticipated and that it could be processed on the finest of the factory combs.

William Dwyer much regretted the reduction of £23,000 in stock. It was partly due to the difficulty in obtaining raw materials and it was also due to the much greater demand for the goods manufactured by the Company.

However, against that context in 1942 Sunbeam Wolsey Ltd published a promotional booklet, which set out in brief the first 14 years of the Company since 1928 and an overview of the Company in that year. It was highlighted that the entire Company was managed by Mr Declan Dwyer, who was also a Director and a son of the founder. The initial pages focussed in on the processes of scouring, combing, and carding that took place in a long and grey single-storey building at Blackpool.

Focus was placed on the fact that a large proportion of the hosiery yarns used in this country were dyed at Blackpool, including commissioned work for outside spinners and manufacturers. At Millfield one of the best-equipped machinery dyehouses in Ireland was sited. The booklet noted that the dyeing transformation scene was like a scene in a pantomime; “The products are changed in the dyehouse into riotous colours-every colour imaginable, from the browns of the Silk Hosiery to the blues, crimsons To this portion of the factory come the yarns to and greens of the wool yarns…The dyer’s job is not merely to produce beautiful shades though. He has to make the colours proof against light. washing, perspiration and sea water. To do this, he must have ample supplies of good water, and at Millfield a big filtering plant and the ‘Permutit’ process purifies and softens the water to zero degrees hardness”.

The booklet continued to describe that down in the bowels of the factory was the boiler house with its three 38-foot boilers, each capable of generating 10,000 lbs of steam per hour. Here too was a huge steam accumulator that kept the supply of steam heat to the factory, dyehouse and humidifiers constant – even though the boiler output varied. Finally, the water softening plant ensured that the water used for cleaning and dyeing was of the exact nature required. Pumped through filters to free it from impurities, the water went to the Permutit softening plant at the rate of 5,000 gallons hourly.

There was an interesting section in the booklet dealing with the heat within the factory in the silk thrower section. The whole process of spinning and knitting silk hosiery was carried out at a tropical temperature. Traversing the ceiling at regular intervals were big white humidifiers, which kept the atmosphere at a set warm temperature. If that did not occur, the silk thread would become hard, brittle and unworkable. As the silk arrived from China or Japan, the silk was in long hanks and had to be steeped in special oils and chemicals for a number of hours to give it elasticity.

Throughout the promotional booklet, there were nods as one would expect to the skilled workers and the importance of efficient management; “The Sunbeam Wolsey equipment is the finest procurable. The Sunbeam Wolsey workers are second to none in skill and the materials used are the best that money can buy. Everyone at Sunbeam Wolsey, from the management right down to the latest joined junior, is united in a firm resolve that every Sunbeam Wolsey garment will be all that the most critical wearer could desire. It will give satisfaction, not only when new, but through long and strenuous wear”.

Through graphic illustrations in the booklet, some interesting facts about Sunbeam Wolsey production were highlighted, especially on yarn production and payroll; “In only one day enough wool yarn to stretch twice around the world is produced while the number of employees has increased thirteen times. The weekly payroll has increased twenty times and up to 1940 the production of silk hosiery had grown eightfold. Perhaps the most surprising thing that emerges from those figures is that the production per employee is practically doubled since 1928. The reasons for this are increased efficiency, experience, and the most up-to-date plant obtainable”.

A section in the promotional booklet was also given over to the social services given to employees. A dispensary and surgery at the Blackpool plant was properly staffed and equipped by the management. Workers could have free medical attention. The brochure denoted a contentness in a great reduction in the number of days lost through illness. Other social services were the canteen, the recreation grounds and the football teams. In the canteen employees could purchase hot meals, cigarettes and chocolate. If they wished to bring their own meals with them, they could also eat them in comfort in the canteen along with their fellow-workers.

The booklet also denoted that when the (Second World) War broke out the firm immediately provided proper Air Raid Protection for the staff through building and equipping huge underground shelters. Fully-trained Air Raid Squads and a fully-equipped fire service were always ready to deal with an impending emergency.

To be continued…

Caption:

1280a. A representative pictured in the 1942 Sunbeam Wolsey Ltd promotional booklet of nearly a thousand Sunbeam Wolsey workers. This girl is operating a flatlock seaming machine for making flat-seamed underwear (source: Cork City Library).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 14 November 2024

1279a. Worsted spinning plant of fast-spinning reels and flying threads at Sunbeam Wolsey Ltd, Blackpool, 1942 (source: Cork City Library).
1279a. Worsted spinning plant of fast-spinning reels and flying threads at Sunbeam Wolsey Ltd, Blackpool, 1942 (source: Cork City Library).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 14 November 2024

Making an Irish Free State City – Further Growth for Sunbeam Wolsey

By the end of 1934 the Sunbeam Wolsey Partnership was doing well economically and striving into its future plans. The newly formed Company had been trading officially since the January 1934, with the benefit of the agreement with Wolsey Limited, Leicester, UK. The core Director, William Dwyer was concentrating on the development and manufacture of a complete range of hosiery and knitwear products. The Irish Press newspaper records on 7 December 1934 that new plant machinery from Germany had been installed for the manufacture of silk stockings and was capable of producing stockings of all types for the Irish market. The Company now employed a staff of nearly 600 as compared with 150 in December 1932.

For the year ended 30 June 1934, the trade exceeded the combined trade of Sunbeam Knitwear, Limited, and the Irish Free State trade of Wolsey Limited by approximately 25% as compared with the previous year. For the period from 1 July 1934 to 31 October 1934. the total trade of the Company showed a still further increase, being approximately 50 per cent greater than that of the corresponding period in 1933. The growth continued right throughout 1935 and 1936.

On 26 August 1936, the Irish Independent outlined the profits accrued in the Sunbeam Wolsey annual report, but also the core challenge of staff pay facing the Company. In particular William Dwyer outlined that there was an absence of a standard rate of pay for operatives in the industry. He drew on the returns of the Department of Industry and Commerce that cast a focus on the general conditions existing in the hosiery trade. There were three thousand workers in the trade, who were employed by sixty-live manufacturers. Six hundred of these were employed by Sunbeam Wolsey. The average pay of the workers in the sixty-four other factories was £40 per annum. The average earning of Sunbeam Wolsey was £60 per annum.

William Dwyer noted of the pay and the associated challenge of keeping it: “We pay 50 per cent, more than the average wage. The extra cost to us is £14,000 a year. Because of the number of factories, which have now started, the competition, which we are up against is practically altogether internal. That we can meet this competition and still pay 50 per cent higher wages to our workers is a clear at proof that our organisation is on the soundest possible basis”.

On 18 August 1937, A jump of over £8,400 in trading profits was shown in the report of Sunbeam Wolsey – the year ended for 30 June 1937 was £28,260 compared with £19,789 in June 1936.

The eleventh Ordinary General meeting of Sunbeam Wolsey, Limited, was held on 28 August 1939. Here, William Dwyer spoke about having bought outright the factory premises at Blackpool and having just completed the purchase of a new warehouse in Dublin.

William also reflected on the effects of the London Agreement or the ceasing of the Economic War with the UK on the hosiery manufacturing trade in the Irish Free State. He outlined that the duty on wool socks and stockings had been reduced, in some cases by two-thirds, and the duty on underwear had been likewise heavily reduced. Imports of wool hose had risen by approximately 80,000 dozens and of wool underwear by approximately 6,000 dozens, representing increases of over 200 per cent and 40 per cent respectively. 

William noted on the increased productivity; “I think that the comparison between our figures and imports this year goes conclusively to prove our claim that we produce goods equal in value and finish to any English goods. The demand for our fully fashioned silk hosiery has made it necessary for as nearly to double our plant. Some of our new machines are now in production and the full plant should be running within two months”. 

A year later at the twelfth Ordinary General Meeting of Sunbeam Wolsey Limited on 30 August 1940, William delivered his annual report in the context of the Second World War emerging. When the war broke out the Directors decided that every order on the Company’s books would be executed at the price at which the goods were sold to customers. It was planned that every endeavour was to be utilised to sell the products of the Company at a reasonable price as possible. William on this decision noted; “Even though costs of raw materials were soaring daily and advantage could easily had been taken for large price increases, we feel that the trade in general have appreciated this fact and that during the past year the goodwill of the trade to the Company has increased more than ever before”.

William continued his report commenting on the reduced overhead charges; “All the finished goods in your factory have already been sold for delivery within the next couple of months. Our stocks have been valued in the most conservative way possible. The prices of our goods to-day are very much lower than the price of similar goods sold in England. This is due to the very considerable decrease in the percentage of our overhead charges”.

William also commented that during the 1939-1940 year a subsidiary company called the Cork Spinning Company had created. Its aim was to supply practically all the requirements of the hosiery mill for worsted yarns at a very much lower price than that existing elsewhere. In addition to this the Cork Spinning Company installed a plant lor the throwing of pure silk. This branch of the business was started without any protective duties.

To be continued…

Caption:

1279a. Worsted spinning plant of fast-spinning reels and flying threads at Sunbeam Wolsey Ltd, Blackpool, 1942 (source: Cork City Library).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 7 November 2024

1278a. Sunbeam Knitwear Ltd, Cork, Cork, Ireland, 1933; Oblique aerial photograph taken facing South (source: Britain From Above, Reference number: XPW042277 Ireland).
1278a. Sunbeam Knitwear Ltd, Cork, Cork, Ireland, 1933; Oblique aerial photograph taken facing South (source: Britain From Above, Reference number: XPW042277 Ireland).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 7 November 2024

Making an Irish Free State City – Sunbeam & Wolsey Join Forces

The Cork Examiner on 3 March 1933 carried a paid and well-designed and impressive “catch the eye” advertisement stating “A New Home for a Mighty Irish Industry” for Sunbeam Knitwear Company in Blackpool. The machinery was the top of the range and comprised the latest models for interlock underwear hosiery. Such machines were manufactured by Messrs Wildt and Company at their Adelaide Works, Leicester and imported into Cork.

The furnishing of the several Sunbeam departments with benches, tables, presses, etc., was carried out by Messrs Eustace and Company, 9 St Patrick’s Street, Cork. The timber used in the offices of the managing director was supplied by Messrs E H Harte and Sons, Cork, who also supplied the Celotex, with which the factory was insulated. Messrs Murphy Bros., North Abbey Street, Cork, builders and contractors, were responsible for the joinery work, all of which was made and supplied by them. The plumbing and sanitary work was entrusted to Mr Joseph Horgan, plumber and sanitary engineer, of Ballintemple, Cork. All the electrical material for the lighting of the new factory, including all cables, conduit and special lighting units, were supplied by the General Electric Company Ltd, whose Cork address was “Magnet House”, 74 Grand Parade. The lighting installation of the factory was executed by Messrs Millard and Healy, electrical engineers, Paul Street, Cork.

As the year 1933 progressed, the aspirations for Sunbeam Knitwear Company remained high. In particular William Dwyer’s interest in learning from the knowledge of the UK knitwear market led him to not only bring machinery and staff into Cork from textile orientated cities such as Leicester, but also to team up with a prominent company in Leicester itself. On 1 August 1933, the Cork Examiner and Irish Press carried a paid advertisement and article declaring the Sunbeam Knitwear Company in Cork has amalgamated with the famous Wolsey Company of Leicester. In essence, the Cork company had acquired the Irish business end of Wolsey, which had its principal warehouse for the Irish market in Dublin. As a result of the acquisition the Cork company was subsequently renamed as Sunbeam Wolsey.

The Wolsey Company were widely known in the Irish and UK market. Established in 1755, the UK company had almost three centuries of experience. The firm’s headquarters was situated close to Leicester Abbey, the burial place of Cardinal Wolsey – hence the motif of his head on the Company’s logo.

The joint venture or deal so to speak went officially through in January 1934 and was administered on the Cork side by the Company’s Solicitor, Mr Barry M O’Meara, 18 South Mall. The deal was published in the Irish Press. It comprised the acquisition through a share holding mechanism of Wolsey Limited to Sunbeam Knitwear Limited  “of the goodwill of Wolsey Limited’s business in the Irish Free State and Wolsey’s Trade ‘Marks therein and its Leasehold premises and the allotment to Wolsey Limited, or its nominees of 17,054 Ordinary Shares of  £1 each in Sunbeam Knitwear. Limited”.

In essence, Wolsey Limited held 49 per cent of the shares of new Company of Sunbeam Wolsey or £17,054 in shares. In addition, the sale of the stock, fixtures furniture, etc at Wolsey’s Dublin Depot for £2,220 was to be paid in cash by Sunbeam Knitwear Company.

Wolsey Limited agreed not to manufacture or sell articles of clothing in the Irish Free State and Sunbeam Knitwear Limited agreed not to manufacture articles of clothing in the United Kingdom and to certain restrictions on sales in the United Kingdom.

The Agreement with Wolsey Limited provided for the supply, “on satisfactory terms”, of plant and machinery necessary for the development, of the business of Sunbeam Wolsey and the manufacture of its products in the Irish Free State. Wolsey Limited placed their knowledge and technical resources at the disposal of new company Sunbeam Wolsey.

The Irish Press of 1 August 1933 declared that the Wolsey Company excelled in its line of manufacture and that the new agreement heralded employment and cheaper prices for the consumer; “It is heartening to learn that the Sunbeam people have concluded an arrangement under which the products from the Cork factory will be largely increased, meaning that employment will be increased and that as a natural corollary there will be a more general diffusion of happiness in Cork and in the surrounding districts. The extension of the Cork Company means that the home purchaser, apart from securing. better finished articles, will get them at substantially lower prices…Making them [articles] within the Free State means that no customs duties will be payable, means that employment will be given at home and that an increased circulation of money will follow”.

The knowledge of the Directors on the Leicester side was impressive. Mr Ernest T Walker, who was chairman and managing director of Wolsey Limited, had been connected with the hosiery trade all his life, and was the grandson of the original founder of the firm of Messrs R Walker & Sons in 1834. His vast experience and intimate knowledge of every aspect of the hosiery trade have rendered his services of very great value as a representative of the industry on many councils and committees. Among his many activities Ernest was a Member of the Executive Council of the Federation of British Industries, a member of the Committee of the National Federation of Hosiery Manufacturers, a member of the Hosiery Joint Industrial Council and was an active member of the Leicester Chamber of Commerce.

Mr Alfred Salt was the Company Secretary of Wolsey Limited and joined the firm shortly after its formation as a public company. He was the lead person on the Leicester side in the negotiation with William Dwyer in Sunbeam Knitwear Company. Alfred received his training in the City of London with two of the largest and most eminent firms of chartered accountants and in 1926 was appointed a departmental director of the firm. In 1929 he was made a full Director with a seat on the Board. His appointment as Assistant Managing Director was made in January 1930. Alfred was a member of the Worshipful Company of Framework Knitters and also of the Executive Committee of the Management Research Groups.

To be continued…

Caption:

1278a. Sunbeam Knitwear Ltd, Cork, Cork, Ireland, 1933; Oblique aerial photograph taken facing South (source: Britain From Above, Reference number: XPW042277 Ireland).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 31 October 2024

1277a. Sunbeam Knitwear Ltd, Cork, Cork, Ireland, 1933; Oblique aerial photograph taken facing south (source: Britain From Above, Reference number: XPW042276 Ireland)
1277a. Sunbeam Knitwear Ltd, Cork, Cork, Ireland, 1933; Oblique aerial photograph taken facing south (source: Britain From Above, Reference number: XPW042276 Ireland)

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 31 October 2024

Making an Irish Free State City – Sunbeam & the Future of Fashion

In the days surrounding the formal opening of Sunbeam Knitwear Company in Blackpool on 5 March 1933, there was much press coverage. William Dwyer had launched an important scheme to produce silk and artificial silk hosiery, most of which up to that point was imported from abroad.

To be successful William Dwyer deployed all highly strategic elements including  future thinking investment, being proactive and responding to the changing fashion styles especially in female underwear in the early 1930s, harnessing the use of more modern machinery and manufacturing, making sure his staff were well-trained on the factory floor and undertook the head hunting of a strong sub management team. In particular William hired designers who watched and responded to the fashion changes in Paris and London, the rapid emerging cultural trends in elaborate stocking design and seeing what shapes and designs suited Irish figures and Irish complexions. All the above elements together made for a company well poised to react to economic, social and cultural trends of their time and almost challenging indirectly the culture of conservative Ireland.

The Cork Examiner on 3 March 1933 carried a paid and well-designed and impressive “catch the eye” advertisement stating “ A New Home for a Mighty Irish Industry”. Adjacent was a page and half story on the story todate of Sunbeam and William Dwyer’s journey, with clear input by the Company itself. The newspaper opened its story by describingthe new Company premises standing on the Blackpool side of the city, closely adjoining the main Cork-Dublin railway line. The premises comprised some eight acres of factory space, together with one of the finest chimney shafts and boiler house equipment in the Irish Free State. The article describes a fine industrial building; “The building is particularly well constructed; it was designed to withstand the rigours imposed by the flax industry and is admirably suited for hosiery production. It is suitable, too, for the ambitious programme of expansion and development of new industries planned by William Dwyer when he undertook his project at Blackpool”.

The Cork Examiner article continued to explore the geography or layout of the factory. At the top of the factory was a “battery of nearly fifty machines” engaged on the manufacture of seamless silk stockings. These machines turned out the cheaper grades of artificial silk hose in an infinite variety of shades and colours, “designed by one of the most expert dyeing departments in the hosiery trade”.

In another part the making of fully-fashioned silk hose was concentrated. This was an article that according to William Dwyer, although limited in production because of its price, demanded much more attention in manufacture. There was one giant machine, nearly forty feet in length, which automatically turned out 36 stocking feet at once. The newspaper described its mechanism; “The mechanism of this machine is marvellous. It was designed and produced in Germany. Similar machines are utilised by the most famous fully fashioned hose makers in Great Britain and the Continent”.

Lying beside the giant machine was a machine where the rest of the stocking was made. The Cork Examiner notes of the complicities of the machine: “ It looked, if anything, even more complicated, and as it silently revolves and its cases turn over and over it is easily realised what genius is in its design, and what intense experience and knowledge are required to maintain and to operate such an ingenious unit of production”.

At another part of the factory the Cork Examiner article related that there was a plant of machines for making ladies’ silk hosiery, which were to be sold at a lower price. These were America-made machines. They were the very latest type of machine on the market and were the “very finest gauge made”. They were 300-needle machines. These machines produced semi-fashioned silk hosiery at popular prices and were the only type of machines manufactured, which produced an elastic re-enforced welt. They also made a gusset toe, which added enormously to the comfort of the stocking. The variety of stockings that can be made on these machines is practically limitless, from ladies’ art silk stockings to the finest fishnet and clock stockings.

The Cork Examiner continued that then came the bulk production of socks and stockings;  “Hose and half hose as the trade knew them – coming into existence from mighty machines in millions, packed into neat bundles with intriguing little trademarks, waiting their time for despatch to every corner of the country”.

The Cork Examiner remarked of the use of reinforced welts on stockings; “there were flat look machines for attaching the ribs; a welt which makes perfectly flat seams without any welt whatever. There are also machines, which sew on buttons at the rate of six dozen a minute”.

Through the main factory there were banks of machines turning out woollen underwear that were deemed “essential to health and wellbeing”. In addition to woollen goods here was made underwear or a new kind of artificial silk.

Another part of the factory devoted itself to as the Cork Examiner described “curiously-patterned golf stockings, another to daintily-coloured kiddies’ stockings – lines that until a few short months previously were never made in the Irish Free State”. Even green stockings were made by Sunbeam—made for the Rugby and football teams.

A department specialised in the making of outer wear, which included fashion garments, costumes, all and every kind of jumpers, pullovers, scarves, etc. In anotherspecialised department, Sunbeam golf pullovers were made. The Cork Examiner wrote about their speciality; “No ordinary pullovers were these – for as the foreman shows them he proudly tells of their special waterproof quality, cups a portion of the garment into his hand and fills it with water just to prove that rain cannot get through”.

Down in the basement of the factory was the dye-house, where steam rose from the ground and coloured liquid flows along channels. The Cork Examiner noted: “Here the science of art and of chemistry ensures success to the rest of the manufacturing processes. Everything in a hosiery business depends on the quality of a dye – the vastly different shades, and how consistently and regularly those shades come out in the garments that are made”.

To be continued…

Caption:

1277a. Sunbeam Knitwear Ltd, Cork, Cork, Ireland, 1933; Oblique aerial photograph taken facing south (source: Britain From Above, Reference number: XPW042276 Ireland)

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 24 October 2024

1276a. Sketch of Sunbeam Knitwear Company Ltd, 1942 by Raymond McGrath (source: Cork City Library).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 24 October 2024

Making an Irish Free State City – Opening the Sunbeam Knitwear Company in Blackpool

            William Dwyer’s move from his factory in the historic Butter Exchange to Blackpool in the winter of 1932 was highly timely and strategic. More and more the Irish Free State Government, now  under the fledging Fianna Fail party, was pushing for the creation of local and regional industries. To enable this, tariffs were also imposed on the imports of UK goods and a campaign of Buy Irish Goods pursued.

In an interview with the Cork Examiner on 19 October 1932, William Dwyer stated that the Sunbeam Knitwear Company had made arrangements for the making of silk and artificial silk hosiery in Cork. He deemed the premises in which the present factory was situated, the old Cork Butter Market, to have become too small for the expanding business. He had made arrangements for taking over an factory site in Millfield, Blackpool. He noted on his vision; “The making of Sunbeam hose, hosiery and underclothing would be carried out at the new factory. Within a short time we have employed eighty extra hands, and when the silk hosiery business would be started, we expect to employ about another hundred people”.

William continued in his interview that the chief difficulty, to that point in time experienced in the Irish Free State, in the making of silk hose was the dyeing and finishing of the goods. He added that the Sunbeam factory had obtained an expert, who was regarded as one of the best individuals in England in the art of dyeing and finishing hosiery.

    The old Millfield building, a five storey brick building, was constructed between 1864 and 1866 and was the brainchild of William Shaw. Designed by Belfast architects, Boyd and Platt, it was the first industrial linen yarn-spinning mill outside of Ulster. The Millfield Mill was operated by the Cork Spinning and Weaving Company whose directors chose the site outside the city’s municipal boundary due to the fact, the company would not have to pay rates to Cork Corporation.

By January 1921, between 600 and 700 hands were made temporarily unemployed as a result of the closing of the flax mills of the Company due to difficult trading conditions. This action was rendered necessary by the fact that the company had sold very little of their stock within the previous few months, and indeed the whole trade was practically at a standstill.

Minister of Industry and Commerce Seán Lemass TD opened the new Messrs Sunbeam Knitwear Ltd factory on 5 March 1933. The Cork Examiner recorded in the ensuing days that a celebratory luncheon was given at the factory for over 100 guests. The Minister travelled from Dublin and was met at the gate by William Dwyer, the Lord Mayor of Cork, Cllr Seán French and Mr Hugo Flinn TD. Mr Lemass was cheered by an enthusiastic crowd as he made his way to the site for cutting a silk ribbon. The guests then retired to the factory’s dining hall whilst Mr Lemass was given a tour of the factory. Here he was shown the various stages of manufacture and notably the enterprise of silk stocking manufacture.

At the dining hall, Messrs F H Thompson and Son Ltd were the chosen caterers. William Dwyer proposed the toast of “Eire”, whilst Mr Charles Orr Stanley, Manager of the firm the toast of “Our Guests”. In replying to the toast, Minister Lemass thanked the Company for their hospitality and noted that the company was unique in many ways. That aside from political affiliations and occupations, any addition to industrial development would lead to “prosperity of their country and to abolish it from the curse of unemployment”.

            Elaborating Minister Lemass that the Sunbeam company was eliminating the illusion, which existed amongst some sections of Irish Society that Irish industry cannot be as efficient as that what exists in the UK. Mr Lemass noted he was impressed by not merely the general lay-out of the factory and efficiency of the machinery that had been installed, but also what could be done by Irish workers.

Minister Lemass outlined that Mr Dwyer had told him of the experience of the highly skilled foreign operatives, who had been brought into to train Irish workers. He believed that Sunbeam was part of the idea that considerable progress could be made to supply the nation’s industrial requirements and that “greater progress was still possible” on sound economic principles as what were pursued by William Dwyer and his team.

On William Dwyer’s team as Co-Director was Waterford-born Charles Orr Stanley (1889-1989). The Oxford Dictionary of National Biography relates that Charles was an industrialist and specialised in telecommunications and marketing, which was to be of great use to the Sunbeam Knitwear Company. In 1923 Charles was employed at a London advertising agency. It specialised in advertisements for engineering concepts. The company led Charles to establish his own agency Arks Publicity and in 1924 he encouraged W G Pye of Cambridge to produce radios. Subsequently, Charles was employed by W G Pye to run the radio division of the company.

In 1928, Charles put down a deposit to buy Pye for £60,000 and in the ensuing year floated the company publicly. He was an early promoter in the potential of television and brought Pye to develop the concept of the television in 1928. They began producing 9-inch sets in 1935.

In 1932/33, Charles came in contact with William Dwyer. With marketing and industrialist experience, William persuaded Charles to be a Co-Director of Sunbeam. One can see Charles’s input in the advertisements in the Cork Examiner from 1930s onwards and the multiple write-ups and artistic spreads across the decade.

Caption:

1276a. Sketch of Sunbeam Knitwear Company Ltd, 1942 by Raymond McGrath (source: Cork City Library).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 17 October 2024

1275a. Portrait of William Dwyer, circa 1943 (source: Cork City Library).
1275a. Portrait of William Dwyer, circa 1943 (source: Cork City Library).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 17 October 2024

Making an Irish Free State City – Arise the Sunbeam Knitwear Company

The opening of the Sunbeam Knitwear Company at the historic Butter Exchange Building in 1928 by William Dwyer (1887-1951) was the start of his enormous journey of industrial development in Cork. It also provided much needed employment opportunities for Cork in the fledging Irish Free State. William became one of the country’s foremost industrial figures.

On finishing at Presentation College, Cork and in Downside School in Somerset, William initially worked for Dwyer & Company on Cork’s Great George’s Street and gained a great grounding in business acumen. It was established by his grandfather and specialised in the manufacture of clothing for men and boys.

In 1928, William went out on his own and took out a lease of the historic Butter Exchange building and established Sunbeam Knitwear Company. It manufactured knitted underwear. Four of the core machines had been rescued or purchased by William from the ruins of Bandon Hosiery, which had been burned out by British Forces, some years previously in 1920. 

In late February 1929, the new Sunbeam Knitwear Company took part in the two week Cork Examiner Ideal Homes Exhibition, which covered a wide variety of modernity trends for the home including furniture and furnishings and also clothing styles.

A week later on 9 March 1929, a Cork Examiner journalist followed up with the Company on how they got on at the Exhibition. It was part of a reflection by the newspaper on the importance of the exhibition. The newspaper highlighted that a stall was taken by the Sunbeam Knitwear Company with “no very great expectations”. Owing to the stall’s limits only a small range of products could be shown, namely ladies’ fashioned outerwear. However, successful results of the display were immediate. The journalist related that although the factory plant output had been very much increased just before the Exhibition, the exhibition display resulted in a steadier flow of orders.

In a general way commenting on the first year of operation of the Sunbeam Knitwear Company, the Cork Examiner journalist commented that the “results quickly began to exceed all expectations”. The newspaper highlighted that the fledging company found itself working at full pressure to cope with the demands for its products. They considered that they were underselling the English market while maintaining a very high standard of quality in their manufacture. Referring to the modern plant, such as what William Dwyer had installed, the journalist detailed that  “one girl can supervise the work of six machines, each of which has a capacity of 36 to 40 dozen pairs per week”.

The Cork Examiner further related that the bulk of the yarn was bought in white wool. It was first of all dyed to the desired colour. In the case of garments the wool was knitted on circular machines, which could be set to do all kinds of fancy work at an rapid rate and with the pattern absolutely automatically following cut. There were five such machines and each one was capable of dealing with 100 lbs. weight of fabric per day. The article denotes; “This was made up into all sorts of men’s, women’s and children’s outer wear, including sports’ apparel, the wide range extending to 100 different garments and at prices ranging from for retail purchase, from about 4s 11d to 30s per garment”.

Hose and half-hose were manufactured in large quantities, from the heavy sort, for country requirements, to the very finest, in a variety of fancy patterns. In the sports outfitting department, the Company had created a big demand. Cork alone supplied orders for over 200 dozens of football jerseys in the previous season. Such products had been selling in all parts of the Irish Free State. Trade queries had also come from outside the Free State and the Company was hoping to soon create an export trade in several directions.

The Cork Examiner pointed out that the Sunbeam Knitwear Company prided itself on the fine quality of and on the extent of designs of finished garments. Such garments catered for all tastes. In the sphere of really high-class knitwear, the journalist argued that “it would be difficult to excel the splendidly finished manufactures, such as ladies’ fashioned three-piece suits and fashioned pullovers and cardigans”

The Cork Examiner article ends with positivity of hope for such industries as Sunbeam Knitwear Company; “Thus from a modest beginning has grown an industry which Cork people, most of all, should support in its present flourishing state so that its future may be as bright and prosperous as has been the short period of its establishment. When people beyond Cork can see the benefit to themselves of buying the products of such a factory surely those at home ought to reap the double benefit, which a prospering concern of this kind confers on them and on their city”.

An interview recorded by the Northside Folklore Project in 2002 highlights the story of one of the workers, Nancy Byrne, in the Shandon premises. Nancy recalled a staff of about fifty in one large room with an open basement and recalls the dyeing process and machine work; “An Englishman, Mr Howarth was the dyer. The raw wool that was brought coloured and dirty cream, how lovely it came out of the dye house in the various colours. On the main floor were many of the different machines, stocking for making wool sacks, flat for wool jumpers which would be put together by overlock workers or sewing machinists. Here also tables were provided for hand-finishers or menders. It was usual to find a small hole here and there in a garment due to the knot in the thread or breaking”.

Nancy also remembered her role as a machinist; “Here I sat in front of a long bench at an electric sewing machine with around three other girls. On the opposite were the overlockers and they worked machines also, finishing off the inside of woollen garments. My task being to stitch up the side of children’s tops. [Sic]. They were a fawn satin without sleeves and later we would attach them to the skirts. We worked from eight to six; the office workers’ hours were nine to six”.

In Guy’s Almanac and Directory of Cork for 1930, three directors are listed for the Sunbeam Knitwear Company – William Dwyer, David Arlson Smythe of Malone Park, Belfast and John O’Donovan, Grenville Place, Cork.

Fast forward to 14 March 1932 and the historic Butter Exchange building was damaged by fire. The Cork Examiner recalls that the Cork Fire Brigade received a call at 8.35am to Church Street. There was a furnace inside the factory with an iron flue running through a wooden and rubberoid roof, which became overheated and it set fire to the latter. A line of hose was laid and after about an hour the fire was got under control. A considerable portion of the roof was destroyed, but any damage done to the interior of the factory premises was recorded as being slight.

The event though sped up William Dwyer’s expansion plans as several weeks later, he revealed his larger plans to take over the late nineteenth century buildings of Cork Flax Spinning and Weaving Company in Millfield, Blackpool and to create a larger premises for the Sunbeam Knitwear Company.

To be continued…

Caption:

1275a. Portrait of William Dwyer, circa 1943 (source: Cork City Library).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 10 October 2024

1274a. Cork Butter Market Exchange Building, c.1900 (picture: Cork City Library)
1274a. Cork Butter Market Exchange Building, c.1900 (picture: Cork City Library)

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 10 October 2024

Making an Irish Free State City – New Uses for the Historic Butter Exchange

Welcome to the 25 year anniversary of this column beginning. Since October 1999, it has been a very interesting weekly pilgrimage of sorts to discover the story of Cork and its myriad of tangents. One story, which has popped up frequently is the story is that of the Cork Butter Market. This month, 100 years ago, in 1924, coincided with a rapid decline in the fortunes of the Market and in particular talk about the closure of the core building in the heart of Shandon began in earnest.

For centuries, Cork had occupied a leading position as a great centre and port of exportation for butter. The emergence of the Cork Butter Market in the nineteenth century achieved extensive success in establishing trading networks in British colonies. By 1892, the Cork Butter Exchange building was handling annually 500,000 casks of butter, valued at £1.5m. In the early twentieth century, Cork exports represented one third of the total butter export from Ireland.

The publication, Cork, Its Chamber and Commerce – a Cork Chamber of Commerce book from 1919, outlines that considerable improvements in the quality of the butter were made in the early 1900s to keep pace with foreign competition and with the establishment of numerous factories and creameries. Butter became manufactured on scientific principles. Enormous quantities of creamery, factory and farmers’ butter were made up in tins and oaken packages and these were exported to the four corners of the world.

  Margarine was invented by a French Chemist Meg Mouries, circa 1870 and first came into commercial processes in 1872, when it was manufactured exclusively in Holland. Hence it was originally known as Dutch butter. It was soon realised that the South of Ireland was eminently suited for its manufacture owing to the large supply of milk available.

The first margarine factory in the United Kingdom was established in Limerick and later transferred to Waterford. Later again, three margarine factories were set up in Cork. The increasing population and prosperity of Great Britain created a ready market.

The total export of margarine from Cork exceeded 7,000 tons a year and was rapidly increasing. In the second decade of the 1900s, the development of the margarine industry reacted unfavourably upon the butter trade. In addition, butter from France and Scandinavia began to severely challenge the Cork butter industry. In late 1924, due to profound competition that caused declining prices and profits, it was decided by the Market’s Trustees to sell off the historic Butter Exchange building in Shandon.

Strikingly and very much the end of an era and the start of another, new uses were called for the elaborate Butter Exchange building and its Weigh House. An advertisement in the Cork Examiner on Saturday, 27 December 1924 notes that W Marsh and Sons Auctioneers were instructed by the Trustees of the Butter Market to sell by auction at their salesrooms, 70 South Mall, Cork on Friday, 9 January 1925, at 1pm, the extensive City premises known as the Cork Butter Market. It was held in Fee Simple and purchased from the Landed Estates Court in February 1859. The premises for auction was described as “All That and Those of the Butter Weigh House of Cork, and the Portico and new extended front thereof, situate in Shandon Church Street, Mulgrave Street and Cody’s Street, in the City of Cork”.

The advertisement further relates that the “extensive premises” were most centrally situated within easy reach of Railways and Shipping Quays and comprised a “spacious warehouse with fine ground floor accommodation, measuring approximately 120 foot x 140 foot, substantially built and well lit from the roof, with the main portico entrance in Exchange Street and valuable frontage extending down Church Street, with several entrances therefrom”. There was also a Caretaker’s Residence attached to the Premises.

The property was being sold with clear possession and held free of rent. As the Cork Examiner highlighted, the premises offered “a rare opportunity to City Merchants, Manufacturers or Warehousemen seeking well situated extensive promises adaptable to any wholesale trade requiring spacious ground floor accommodation”.

On 9 January 1925, at the public auction no bid was received for the property. Mr John Ronan, Solicitor, represented the firm having carriage of sale. Messrs W Ronan, Solicitors, and Mr F L Blake,  was present on behalf of the Cork Butter Market Trustees. The Cork Examiner recorded that there were only about six members of the general public in attendance. Mr W Donoghue conducted the proceedings. He announced the conditions of and dealt with the suitability of the famed institution as a business property. He invited bids and no bids were made. The premises were withdrawn from sale by auction.

By 14 October 1925, the Cork Examiner reports that Messrs James Daly and Sons had bought the greater portion of the Butter Market premises. A part of the building was still in the possession of the Trustees, who used it for some trade in butter.

A 1942 obituary in the Cork Examiner reveals that James Daly (1856-1942) was born at Moycollop, County Waterford in 1856. James began his business life in his native district as a butter and egg merchant. At an early age founded and was managing director, of the firm of James Daly and Sons, Ltd, which had bases on Cork’s Shandon Street, Dominick Street and Mulgrave Road. James was one of Cork’s most enterprising and successful Corkonians. His association with the butter industry extended over half a century from the 1880s to the early 1930s. Under his own personal supervision James merited for his firm a world-wide reputation and employed many people. In addition to the butter industry, the firm were also proprietors of the Shandon Castle Margarine Factory, which was established until 1905 and erected on the site of the ancient Shandon Castle. He was one of the Trustees of the Cork Butter Exchange and in time he was the principal sponsor of Daly’s Bridge.

On 4 July 1923, the Cork Examiner reported on a serious outbreak of fire in the historic Butter Exchange building, which was brought under control by Cork Fire Brigade. Reference is given that the building had just been acquired and fitted out as a small knitwear factory by William Dwyer. He remained insitu until the early 1930s when the business moved and was expanded and moved to the former site of Cork Spinning & Weaving Company in Blackpool. Meanwhile T O’Gorman and Sons, Garters, Braces, Hats and Caps took over the historic Butter Exchange building and operated its business there until 1976.

Caption:

1274a. Cork Butter Market Exchange Building, c.1900 (picture: Cork City Library)

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 3 October 2024

1273a. Cork Municipal School of Commerce as pictured in 1919 on Jameson Row, South Mall (source: Cork: Its Trade and Commerce available in Cork City Library).
1273a. Cork Municipal School of Commerce as pictured in 1919 on Jameson Row, South Mall (source: Cork: Its Trade and Commerce available in Cork City Library).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 3 October 2024

Making an Irish Free State City – The Future of the School of Commerce

In the decade of the 1920s and against the backdrop of the emerging Irish Free State, the Cork Municipal School of Commerce was another institution, which pursued its programme for the future with dynamism. Since the School’s establishment in November 1908 in a former residential house on the South Mall, there had been steady improvements in aspects such as the intake of students, the average attendance, the School’s teaching programmes, the examination success of its students and also improvements in the post School opportunities of its students. In particular, in 1908 the School started with evening classes. In 1912-13 special afternoon courses were formed from 4 pm-7 pm. In 1923-24, morning courses were added.

Every year, the School of Commerce produced its year-end report and at the start of every School term in September, the report was read out at a public meeting and published in the Cork Examiner. In the 1920s not all of the annual reports were published but those that were offer a large insight into the workings and vision of the School. One such detailed report was published one hundred years ago in the Cork Examiner on 12 September 1924.

The seventeenth session of the Cork Municipal School of Commerce was formally opened on 11 September 1924. Richard Anthony, President of the Cork Workers’ Council, presided. He remarked that it was highly gratifying to find that 616 individual students had attended during the 1923-24 session compared with 526 for the previous one. In the public examinations there had been 544 successes as compared with 400 in the preceding session.

Mr Anthony pointed out there was a need for students to have a standard of primary education of senior grade, which would allow to fully benefit from the programmes of the School of Commerce. Arising from the standard of education issue, there were some students, who dropped out after a few weeks of commencing their course. The annual report detailed that in addition, the average percentage of actual to possible attendance was 66.

Mr Anthony also expressed that he hoped that Irish society would soon reach a stage in industrial and commercial prosperity when, instead of exporting their finished scholars and craftsmen, they would be able to “absorb into commerce and industry at home all the pupils trained in its School and in kindred institutions”.

The Principal of the School, D J Coakley, in submitting the annual report on the work of the School, said the complete return to peace following the Irish Civil War was reflected in the “increased entries and attendance and in the higher standard of work and general progress of the School”.

During the session, which extended from September to June inclusive, the teaching staff comprised the Principal, five full-time teachers and 17 part-time teachers.  There were morning, afternoon and evening classes in business subjects. During the session 1923-24 a complete morning first year specialised course was introduced and this comprised commercial arithmetic, book-keeping, commerce, geography, Irish, shorthand and typewriting.

A scheme of Irish classes for teachers was established in the session 1919-20. Arrangements were made between the School of Commerce and the Munster College of Irish, by which the School took charge of the classes for members of religious communities and the Munster College made provision for lay Secondary and National teachers. Since these, classes were established they had an average yearly attendance of 60 teachers.

During the 1924-25 session the Cork Corporation struck a special 1d rate for the teaching of Irish in the Municipal Schools. This enabled the School of Commerce Committee to form in this subject four morning classes, two afternoon classes and six evening classes. The Irish classes, including those for teachers, had a total enrolment of 480 individual students. All the students in the morning and afternoon divisions took Irish as part of their course.

In order to cultivate an atmosphere of sound, oral Irish and Gaelic culture in the Municipal Schools the Committee awarded to the more advanced students eight scholarships of £10 10s each, tenable for the month of August, in a selected Gaelic speaking district, where a special Summer School of Irish had been formed.

In addition, as a result of a competitive examination in arithmetic, drawing, English and Irish held at the opening of the session, seventy free places were awarded in the introductory courses and forty-five scholarships valued at 15s each in the specialised courses. Indeed, from across all of the School’s courses, the total number of scholarships awarded in 1923-24 was 234, as compared with 160, 179, and 197, respectively, in the previous sessions.

The School of Commerce could also boast a successful employment bureau programme. To enable students to pass quickly from the study to the practice of business, a list of students wishing to obtain appointments, with full particulars as to their education and attainments, was kept at the School. On application from the employer one or more students could at once be selected for interview, either at the employer’s place of business, or by special appointment at the School.

D J Coakley also spoke about the inadequacy of the School of Commerce building to meet the growing requirements of the School. The School was located in an old dwelling house on the South Mall and the spaces for classes were very limited for expansion. He expressed the hope that ways and means could be found in the near future to remedy this serious drawback. However, it was going to be another decade though before the foundation of the new School was placed in 1935 on Morrison’s Island.

Whereas, from 1926-1930, the work of the School through the lens of the annual reports remains strong, in the 1926 report it reveals the introduction of an another notable feature. In September 1926 at the formal opening of the School term, the Constructive Thrift Movement in Cork was inaugurated.  A special School Savings Committee was established and this comprised members of the School staff. Over 600 saving certificates were created during its first year.

Caption:

1273a. Cork Municipal School of Commerce as pictured in 1919 on Jameson Row, South Mall (source: Cork: Its Trade and Commerce available in Cork City Library).