Category Archives: Kieran’s Council Work

Elizabeth Fort Heritage

I was delighted to be involved with the push to handover Elizabeth Fort from the OPW to Cork, which happened today.

Info below from my heritage website, www.corkheritage.ie

The star shaped fortification of Elizabeth Fort named after Queen Elizabeth I once protected an English garrison in Cork and became a distinct landmark in the immediate southern suburbs of seventeenth century Cork. Constructed in 1601, the fort protected the walled town of Cork from attack from Gaelic Irish natives and foreigners. It was a series of historic incidents that led to the building of such a structure. Firstly, the defeat of the Gaelic Irish Earl of Desmond in South Munster by English colonialists in 1583 and the subsequent forfeiture of his lands removed a primary keystone of the political system in Munster. Indeed, it is argued that it left Munster wide open to re-colonisation by Irish clans. Consequently, this led to the Queen Elizabeth I’s formulation of the plantation of Munster in 1585. ‘Planting’ Munster with English colonists provided a catalyst in increasing threats to security by Irish natives.

Plan of Elizabeth Fort, c.1603

By the late 1580s, there were calls throughout Munster for reinforcements to protect planters, which resulted in the arrival of several thousand English soldiers to the province itself. The plantation area comprised 600,000 acres, which were divided into plots of between 4,000 and 12,000 acres. In the late 1500s, several thousand English families arrived in Munster especially to avail of higher profits, which the plantations created. These families though were serving a higher landlord class. Among the most eminent landlords securing land in Munster at this time included Burlington, Cuffe, Boyle, Fenton, Perceval, and Orrey.

 

However, the security of the inner landscape was not the only problem, English colonialists had to deal with. A fear of a Spanish invasion gave priority of security to the coastal regions, particularly the southern coast. In the sixteenth century, a new type of improved fortification was developed to deal with changes in conducting warfare. Gunpowder had been in Europe since the fourteenth century but it was only in the mid 1500s that musket guns were developed. No longer was a large castle the safest place to be in warfare. Instead star-shaped fortresses were deemed the best defence. The distinctive star shaped plan was designed to provide flanking fire and to position artillery pieces. ‘Angle bastions’ were constructed at all of the enclosing walls of the fortress at the main corners. This enabled the fort’s garrison to concentrate its firepower on any attacking force in a thirty metre wide area immediately in front of the fort.  This art of fortification was rapidly developed in Italy in the first three decades of the sixteenth century and was based on initial designs by Giuliano Sangallo, an Italian military engineer in 1485.

In January 1590, the order was given by Queen Elizabeth I to construct star-shaped forts outside the town walls of each major Irish coastal walled town, in particular Waterford, Limerick, Galway and Cork.  In Cork, the harbour was deemed important to defend but the construction of any new forts was delayed by the continuous rebellions of native Irish against English conquest and colonisation in Ireland. In 1599, a new Lord President of Ireland, Sir George Carew was appointed to quell the native rebel Irish factions and he was well known for his ability to deal with such situations. After the Spanish attack on Kinsale in 1601, it was decided by Carew that Cork harbour would have to be immediately defended. A new star-shaped fort was constructed on Haubowline Island in the harbour and a new fort was constructed called James Fort (after James I) in Kinsale Harbour. In addition, in 1601, a star shaped fort was constructed at Cork, which was located just outside South Gate Drawbridge on a cliffside that overshadowed and protected the southern road leading into the walled town, now known as Barrack Street. The first fort was called Elizabeth Fort (after Elizabeth I), a name, which has remained to the present day. In 1601, the fort was an irregular work of stone, timber and earth. This fort was garrisoned by October 1602 even though it was unfinished.

Plan of Elizabeth Fort, c.1626

The fort was erected on top of a rock outcrop and early representations of the fort show that it was an irregular fortification in design with stone walls on three sides and an earthen bank facing the walled town. To enter into the interior, one had to cross a drawbridge through a portcullis gate and past a gate-house. Facing the walled town, a natural cliff provided protection whilst the other three sides, a dry moat cut into the rock and was crossed only by a drawbridge at the entrance. The entrance was further protected by a gate tower and portcullis and a gate tower. None of the original fort can be seen today.

In 1603 as a result of Cork’s refusal to honour the crowning of the Catholic King James I, the fort was attacked by an unnamed faction of rebel Irish figure, who considerably damaged the main structure, stole its guns and brought these arms into the town. Nevertheless due to the presence of the Lord Deputy of Cork, Lord Mountjoy and his forces, they seized the city and made the citizens unwillingly rebuild the fort. The new structure received the name “New Fort” and was more improved than the last edifice. The building began circa 1624 and the old drawbridge was substituted with a causeway, a mound of earth and a more elaborate gateway on the eastern side, most of which was replaced. None of the second fort can be seen today.

In 1649, the ramparts or the defensive walls were made higher to what can be seen today; a height of nearly eight metres above the ground level. The extra height was in order to deal with the rebellious factions of Irish. By 1690, about two hundred English soldiers were employed to run the garrison. Twenty-one cannons were located around the top of the fortification, which meant that at least eight men had to man one cannon.  In 1690, there were five distinct out-shots or bastions that could be seen associated with the high limestone walls. Four men had to operate the firing of the cannon while four men had to guard its artillery such as cannon balls.

In the seventeenth century, the English government classified Elizabeth Fort as a defence work of great strength. It was designed for all round defence, while each of the bastions was capable of acting independently as a “last ditch” strongpoint. The bastions on the southern side were considerably stronger and larger than those bastions on the northern side, indicating that the designer was well aware of the vulnerabilities of the fort. A strong effort had also been made to strengthen the entrance side. Here a double wall, double gateway and associated tower, fifteen metres in height could be seen. Today, the double walls and entrance can still be seen with the tower long gone. The foundation of the fortress, which was solid rock also ruled out undermining.

Reconstruction of Elizabeth Fort, c.1690

Reconstruction of Elizabeth Fort, c.1690

 The Siege of Cork in September 1690 tested the strength of the fort immensely. In short, Irish rebels, supporters of James II, possessed Elizabeth Fort and the English had to dominate at least two tall adjacent buildings, Red abbey and St. FinBarre’s Cathedral to rain down shots on the Irish in the area in order to attain a surrender. It is unfortunate that much of the documentation describing the layout and rebuilding of the fort from 1719 to the present day has been lost. All that is known is that the encompassing star-shaped bastion remained unchanged. It is known that in 1719, Elizabeth Fort became a British military barracks and catered for seven hundred men. This caused the ramparts to be thinned, in order to make extra space for a new barracks to be built. In 1806, due to the construction of a new Barrack’s to the north east of the city (now Collin’s Barracks), the barracks within Elizabeth fort altered to that of a Female Convict Prison. Samuel Lewis, an Irish historian in the early half of the 1800s related in1837 that there were 250 inmates, brought from all parts of the country. Many of these were housed here until ships became available to convey them to other British colonial outposts, in particular New South Wales.

Eizabeth Fort and environs, 1759

In the late nineteenth century, Elizabeth Fort was used as a station for the Cork City Artillery Militia. In 1920-21, the fort was occupied by the Royal Irish Constabulary and handed over to the Irish government. A year later in 1922, it is known that the existing interior buildings of the fort were burned down by Anti-Treaty forces during the Irish Civil War. The walls and bastions of the fort were undamaged. A few years later, a Garda Station was set up in the interior of the fort and today is still in operation. Elizabeth Fort remains one of Cork’s most historic gems. Never been excavated, Elizabeth Fort has a wealth of stories waiting to be discovered and to be told.

 

Plan of Elizabeth Fort, 1869

Kieran’s Question to the City Manager and Motions, Cork City Council Meeting, 9 December 2013

 

Question to the Manager:

 

To ask the manager when will the Fireman’s Hut, formerly on St Patrick’s Street, be located in Fitzgerald’s Park? (Cllr Kieran McCarthy)

 

 

Motions:

 

To fix the faulty lights at the junction of Skehard road and Church Road Blackrock. When pressing the button for walking across the road and when the green man indicates it is safe to cross on the chemist side of the junction, there is still a green light showing on the Skehard side of the junction allowing cars to carry on, which has caused a couple of near misses (Cllr Kieran McCarthy).

 

To seek a second ‘lollypop’ warden for Eglantine National School on Eglantine Park due to the large numbers of children crossing over the road at that location (Cllr Kieran McCarthy)

Kieran’s Question to the City Manager and Motions, Cork City Council Meeting, 11 November 2013

 

Question to the Manager:

To ask the manager for an update on the revamp of Boole House on Bachelor’s Quay? (Cllr Kieran McCarthy)

 

Motions:

That this Council work with the Church of Ireland, Shandon to help fix its iconic clock faces (Cllr Kieran McCarthy)

 

That this Council work with the owner of the site of McCarthy’s Monument on Blackrock Road to clean it up (Cllr Kieran McCarthy)

McCarthy’s Cork Docklands Walking Tour

Cllr Kieran McCarthy’s tour of Cork Docklands takes place on Saturday 9 November leaving at 2pm from Kennedy Park on Victoria Road (free, two hours).  Some of the themes covered in the talk will be the development of such sites as the Marina and the Atlantic Pond and how they came into being, and the historic structures that still exist in the area. Much of the story of Cork’s modern development is represented in their environs. The origin of the current Docklands is a product of centuries of reclamation and negotiation of swampland.

Cllr McCarthy noted: “Ever since Viking age time over 1,000 years ago, boats of all different shapes and sizes have been coming in and out of Cork’s riverine and harbour region continuing a very long legacy of trade. Port trade was and still is the engine in Cork’s development. To complement the growth of the port, extensive reclamation of swampland took place as well as physical infrastructure quays, wharfs and warehouses.  I’m a big fan of the different shapes of these wharfs, especially the timber ones that have survived since the 1870s. Perhaps the theme that runs through the new walking tour is connections. The tour explores very interesting sites such as Jewtown, Hibernian Buildings, the old electricity power station, the Gas Works, the Docks, the old City Park Racecourse, the early story of Fords, and Kennedy Park. All these topics are all about connecting the city to wider themes of exportation and importation of goods, people and ideas into the city through the ages”.

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 31 October 2013, Docklands Historical Walking Tour

715a. Docklands, Rebel Cork Week Concert, October 2013

 

Kieran’s Our City Our Town Article,

Cork IndependentThursday 31 October 2013

 

Docklands Walking Tour

 

 

 

On Saturday 9 November, at 2pm I will conduct a historical walking tour of Cork Docklands (free), meet at Kennedy Park, Victoria Road. The tour will take in the city’s docks, Albert Road/ Jewtown/ Hibernian Buildings and speak about the development of Centre Park Road. One aspect of this area are the old Cork Showgrounds, located there since 1892. In 2010, I was involved in penning a book with the Munster Agricultural Society on its heritage, its old name in the nineteenth century being the County of Cork Agricultural Society.

 

From 1857 till 1890 the shows of the County of Agricultural Society were held in the ground of the Corn Market (now the site of Cork City Hall). In the early months of 1890, the informality of attaining the Corn Exchange premises from the trustees turned to formality. There was a concern over finances and responsibility over outstanding costs arose between the County of Cork Agricultural Society and the Corn Market Trustees. That was resolved by the Society’s AGM of 22 March 1890 but uncertainty of using the space remained. Those issues were also coupled with lack of space for development. There was sufficient room for an ordinary Cattle Show but when the Society, following the lead of other cities, increased its operations and adopted the idea of holding horse-jumping contest, the enclosure in the Corn Exchange was too limited.

 

In late February in 1891, double booking occurred at the Corn Exchange on the days of the annual show. As work was already being carried out in terms of advertising and organisation, the committee decided not to move the time but investigate another location. A letter was read from Mr Daly, secretary from the Cork Park Race Committee who stated that their committee would be happy to give the society the use of their premises for which they would charge £25 and that they would even give a donation of £10 toward the show fund. The motion was proposed by Sir George Colthurst and seconded by Captain Newenham. Permission was received from the trustees to open an office at the Corn Exchange to receive entries. A series of temporary buildings were constructed at the Cork Park Racecourse.

 

At a post show discussion on 1 August 1891 at a general meeting led Mr A Ferguson, former chairman proposed that a permanent show yard be erected in a portion of the Cork Race Park with grounds 20 acres in extent. The general committee agreed to appoint a deputation to discuss the matter with the Corporation of Cork. The deputation comprised General Davies, Sir George Colthurst, A Ferguson, D Ahern, L Beamish, Crawford Ledlig, R.L. Longfield, Jason Byrne and A.J. Warren. The Corporation of Cork was approached as the site was on their land.

 

Initially, there was no immediate response from the town clerk by mid-September 1891. By October there was some formal discussion between parties. Mr. Bass, the society’s solicitor was instructed to write to the town clerk and inform him that on no account would the society take a lease unless they were given a free hand to use the ground as they sought fit. By early November 1891, there was still no lease forthcoming from the corporation. By 14 November 1891, Mr Bass recommended that the society should form themselves into a limited liability society in order to raise the money required for the erection of the new buildings. A sub-committee was subsequently formed to investigate the matter and reported back on 28 November 1891. By early December 1891, the society decided that the clause with reference to the loan fund should be altered and that the society should not undertake to pay back any part of the money raised by voluntary contribution.

 

By mid-December 1891, all society members were sent a circular with a copy of the scheme and a request asking for a subscription. A deputation was sent to the Royal Dublin Society asking for a grant towards the new buildings. There was no success there. The secretary was further directed to write to the secretary of the North East Agricultural Society for some information as to the new buildings which they were erecting. Mr S French proposed on 23 January 1892 that a premium of £10 for the best plans for the new show yard be given. The idea was accepted.  The three gentlemen nominated to adjudicate on the plans for the new show yard reported that eight plans were submitted for the competition. They selected two marked respectively – “Native Industry” and “Fiat Pistetia Ruat Coelum”. The second (‘Fiat’) was adopted. The author of the successful design was Mr John Leslie O’Hanlon, Darmouth House, Upper Leeson Street, Dublin. He was subsequently invited down to meet the directors of the new company.

 

On 3 March 1892, the memorandum of agreement between the limited company and the society was adopted and in early 1892, the company obtained a lease from Cork Corporation of 27 acres of reclaimed land and the first stages of the show yard was built. More on the above can be got from my 2010 book on the Cork Showgrounds (available from the Munster Agricultural Society, 021 480 1919).

 

 

Captions:

 

715a. Recent Rebel Cork Week Concert, Cork Docklands, October 2013 (picture: Kieran McCarthy)

Kieran’s Question and Motions and to the City Manager, Cork City Council Meeting, 14 October 2013

Double motions this evening due to the meeting cut short on 23 September

Kieran’s Motions, Cork City Council Meeting, 14 October 2013

 

Motions:

That the embankment on Convent Avenue, Blackrock be cleaned-up and replanted (Cllr Kieran McCarthy)

That this Council calls for action from the government on Section 9 of the 2008 Intoxicating Liquor Act and that it be signed into Law; if signed into law it would prevent children from shopping in their local Off Licence to purchase sweets if there is no physical barrier between sweets and alcohol Cllr Kieran McCarthy).

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Kieran’s Question to the City Manager and Motions, Cork City Council Meeting, 23 September 2013

 

Question to the City Manager:

To ask the manager when public submissions for the Draft Tramore Valley Park Plan will be made available to councillors plus when is the likely timescale for the park to open (Cllr Kieran McCarthy)

 

Motions:

That the City Council extend its Jobsbridge programmes to provide internships in the City Library and City Museum (Cllr Kieran McCarthy)

 

 That a “Welcome to Cork” sign, be provided adjacent the tourist bus stop on St Patrick’s Quay, as well as an interpretative panel – guide to Cork City and map (Cllr Kieran McCarthy)