Category Archives: S.E. Ward Local History

Historical Tour down the Old Cork Blackrock and Passage Railway Line

 

Interested in finding out more on the Old Cork-Blackrock and Passage Railway Line? Cllr. Kieran McCarthy, local historian, will conduct a tour of the old line on Thursday morning, 31 May 2012 starting at 10.15am at the entrance on The Marina side adjacent the Main Drainage station of the Amenity Walk. The tour is free (approx 1 1/2 hours) and is being run in association with Mahon CDP, Mahon Walking Group and the Bealtaine Festival. The event is free and is open to all. Cllr. McCarthy noted: “South east Cork City is full of historical gems; the walk not only talks about the history of the line but also the history that surrounds it. It is also a forum for people to talk about their own knowledge of local history in the ward. The walk also forms an important amenity walk through the south east ward.”

 

The Cork Blackrock and Passage Railway, which opened in 1850, was among the first of the Irish suburban railway projects. The original terminus, designed by Sir John Benson was based on Victoria Road but moved in 1873 to Hibernian Road. The entire length of track between Cork and Passage was in place by April 1850 and within two months, the line was opened for passenger traffic. In May 1847, low embankments, which were constructed to carry the railway over Monarea Marshes (Albert Road-Marina area), was finished. In Blackrock, large amounts of material were removed and cut at Dundanion to create part of the track there. Due to the fact that the construction was taking place during the Great Famine, there was no shortage of labour. A total of 450 men were taken on for the erection of the embankments at the Cork end of the line. Another eighty were employed in digging the cutting beyond Blackrock. These and other stories feature on Kieran’s tour. It is also hoped to run this tour again on an evening in June (date to be decided). To have updated information on Kieran’s future walking tours click ‘like’ on Kieran’s heritage facebook page at Cork Our City, Our Town or check out the blog on www.kieranmccarthy.ie

Blackrock Historical Walking Tour, 13 May 2012

Group, Blackrock historical walking tour with Kieran McCarthy, 13 May 2012

Thanks to everyone who turned out for the first outing of the Blackrock Village historical walking tour.

 

Did you know? Some interesting insights into Blackrock History:

·         The Galway family marked their presence in Blackrock by constructing Dundanion Castle, a tower house, which was built circa 1564 and lived in by various occupants until 1832. Blackrock Castle was built circa 1582 by the citizens of Cork with artillery to resist pirates and other invaders.

 

·         By ancient priviledge and jurisdiction, under various charters granted many centuries ago, the Mayor of Cork, as well as the mayors of other cities, including Limerick and Waterford, enjoyed Admiralty jurisdiction to the mouth of their respective harbour.

 

·         Samuel Lewis, 1837: “The scenery is of the most varied and pleasing character, exhibiting numerous elegant villas and cottages, with lawns, gardens, and plantations reaching down to the margin of the Lee, which is here a noble expanse of water more than a mile broad, constantly enlivened by steam-boats and other vessels”.

 

·         The Seat of the Chatterton family, occupied by Sir James Chatterton in 1814 and Sir William in 1837 and at the time of Griffith’s Valuation when it was valued at £47. The building now houses a youth centre run by the Redemptorist Order.

 

·         Blackrock Coastguard was one of 56 Coastguard stations in Co. Cork.

 

·         The Hot and Cold Salt Water Baths was operated initially by Michael O’Brien of Tuckey Street, who lit his shop with gas on Tuckey Street. It was Advertised as early as 1803. The fee for a single person was 1/- but four persons could have a bath and a car for 5/6 to and from Blackrock and Cork City.

 

·         A report on the “Physical and Moral Condition of the Working Classes in the Parish of St Michael Blackrock near Cork” was read by North Ludlow Beamish FRS, President of the Cork Scientific and Literary Society before the Statistical Section of the British Association at Cork August 1843.

 

·         In Beamish’s Report, Blackrock village had 557 families; Ninety families were living in one room to each family, 260 in two rooms and 207 in three or more rooms to each family, the average number of persons to a bed three.

 

·         The men of the sea, Coughlans, O’Learys, Kidneys, John Cashman, Buckleys, Norbergs, Deleas and Ahernes, were all outstanding hurlers. The Coughlans were skilled salmon fishers in the Lee Estuary and owned five or six oar boots specially built for river work When they weren’t hurling they rowed with Blackrock Boat Club.

 

·         Prior to the foundation of the County Board in 1886. A committee organised a competition called the Challenge cup. Twelve teams took part in what was to become the forerunner to the present day County Championship. Blackrock was known as the Cork Nationals in those days, first recorded competitive match in this competition was a semi-final against Macroom.

 

·         On 25 March, 1899 a bunch of young men, all of them members of Dolphin Swimming Club, took the decision to form a Rowing Club. They even decided on the club colours Chocolate and White. The Cork Boat Club was founded.

 

·         On Wednesday September 28th 1960, Our Lady of Lourdes Grotto on Blackrock Pier was officially opened and blessed by Rev Fr Aherne, ably assisted by Fr Cummins and Fr Crowley. It took two and half years from start to finish and one hundred and five meetings were held by the committee in the Blackrock Rowing Club during this time.

 

·         Samuel Lewis, 1837: “The R. C. chapel, erected in 1821, is a large and handsome building, and is a chapel of ease to the parochial chapel of St. Finbarr, or the South chapel: it was begun at the private expense of the late Dean Collins, aided by a subscription of £300, and was complete and elegantly fitted up by means of a bequest of £1100 from the late T. Rochford, Esq., of Garretstown, part of which, in 1834, was expended in the erection of a house for the officiating priest near the chapel.”

 

·         Thomas Deane of Dundanion House was to the forefront of the development of the arts and sciences in his native city. He served on Cork Corporation for many years. He was Mayor of Cork in 1815, 1830 and 1851, and was knighted in 1830.

 

·         The Cork Blackrock and Passage Railway line opened for public service on Saturday 8 June 1850. The traffic was enormous over the first weekend. 6,000 people were carried on the Sunday.  One train carried 460 people.

 

·         Samuel Lewis. 1837: The church, dedicated to St. Michael, serves as a chapel of ease to the cathedral church of St. Finbarr, Cork, and was built in 1827, at an expense of £2100, of which £900 was given by the late Board of First Fruits, £100 by the corporation of Cork, and the remainder, with the exception of a few local subscriptions and the sale of pews, was defrayed by the dean and chapter, who appoint and pay the curate.

Kieran’s Upcoming Community Projects

‘McCarthy’s History in Action Project will take place at the early summer school fair of Our Lady of Lourdes National School, Ballinlough on Sunday 13 May, 2012, 2pm-5pm. This event, supported by Cllr. Kieran McCarthy, will bring history alive for all the family, with the participation of re-enactment groups, storytellers and more.

As part of ongoing research project into the local history of the south-east ward, Cllr Kieran McCarthy will conduct a historical walking tour of Blackrock Village on Sunday 13 May 2012, 6.30pm, leaving from Blackrock Castle (approx 1 ½ hours, free event). The earliest and official evidence for settlement in Blackrock dates to c.1564 when the Galway family created what was to become known as Dundanion Castle. Over 20 years later, Blackrock Castle was built circa 1582 by the citizens of Cork with artillery to resist pirates and other invaders. These and a range other themes will be discussed on the walking tour.

 

Cllr McCarthy’s Make a Model Boat Project takes place at Cork’s Atlantic Pond on Sunday afternoon, 10 June 2012, 2pm. Cork students are encouraged to make model boats at home from recycled materials and bring it along to the Atlantic Pond for judging.  The event is being run in association with Meitheal Mara’s Ocean to City, Cork’s Maritime Festival and the Lifetime Lab.  There are three categories, two for primary and one for secondary students. There are prizes for best models and the event is free to enter. Innovation and imagination is encouraged. Further details on all the events above can be found under community programme at www.kieranmccarthy.ie.

McCarthy’s Upcoming Community Projects

            ‘McCarthy’s History in Action Project will take place at the early summer school fair of Our Lady of Lourdes National School, Ballinlough on Sunday 13 May, 2012 2.30-5pm. This event, supported by Cllr. Kieran McCarthy, will bring history alive for all the family, with the participation of re-enactment groups, storytellers and more.

As part of ongoing research project into the local history of the south-east ward, Cllr Kieran McCarthy will conduct a historical walking tour of Blackrock Village on Sunday 13 May 2012, 6.30pm, leaving from Blackrock Castle (approx 1 ½ hours, free event). The earliest and official evidence for settlement in Blackrock dates to c.1564 when the Galway family created what was to become known as Dundanion Castle. Over 20 years later, Blackrock Castle was built circa 1582 by the citizens of Cork with artillery to resist pirates and other invaders. These and a range other themes will be discussed on the walking tour.

 

Cllr McCarthy’s Make a Model Boat Project takes place at Cork’s Atlantic Pond on Sunday afternoon, 10 June 2012, 2pm. Cork students are encouraged to make model boats at home from recycled materials and bring it along to the Atlantic Pond for judging.  The event is being run in association with Meitheal Mara’s Ocean to City, Cork’s Maritime Festival and the Lifetime Lab.  There are three categories, two for primary and one for secondary students. There are prizes for best models and the event is free to enter. Innovation and imagination is encouraged. Further details on all the events above can be found under community programme at www.kieranmccarthy.ie.

Blackrock Historical Walking Tour, Sunday 13 May 2012

Dundanion Castle, Blackrock, May 2012

As part of ongoing research project into the local history of the south-east ward, Cllr Kieran McCarthy will conduct a historical walking tour of Blackrock Village on Sunday 13 May 2012, 6.30pm, leaving from Blackrock Castle (approx 1 ½ hours, free event).

The earliest and official evidence for settlement in Blackrock dates to c.1564 when the Galway family created what was to become known as Dundanion Castle. Over 20 years later, Blackrock Castle was built circa 1582 by the citizens of Cork with artillery to resist pirates and other invaders. In the early 1700s, the prominent Tuckey family, of which Tuckey Street in the city centre is named, became part of the new social elite in Cork after the Williamite wars and built part of what became known in time at the Ursuline Convent. The building of the Navigation Wall or Dock in the 1760s turned focus to reclamation projects in the area and the eventual creation of public amenity land such as the Marina Walk during the time of the Great Famine. The early 1800s coincided with an enormous investment into creating new late Georgian mansions by many other key Cork families, such as the Chattertons, the Frends, the McMullers, Deanes and the Nash families, amongst others. Soon Blackrock was to have its own bathing houses, schools, hurling club, suburban railway line, and Protestant and Catholic Church. The pier that was developed at the heart of the space led to a number of other developments such as fisherman cottages and a fishing industry. This community is reflected in the 1911 census with 64 fisherman listed in Blackrock.

Cllr Kieran McCarthy noted: “A stroll in Blackrock is popular by many people, local and Cork people. The area is particularly characterised by beautiful architecture, historic landscapes and imposing late Georgian and early twentieth century country cottages; every structure points to a key era in Cork’s development. Blackrock is also lucky that many of its former residents have left archives, census records, diaries, old maps and insights into how the area developed, giving an insight into ways of life, ideas and ambitions in the past, some of which can help us in the present day in understanding Blackrock’s identity going forward.”

Kieran’s Speech, Ballinlough Community Association AGM, 24 April 2012

Our Lady of Lourdes Church, Ballinlough in Silouette

Ballinlough Community Association AGM, 24 April 2012

Thanks for the invitation here this evening.

Many, many years ago, the good people living in Ballinlough chose to erect a stone monument in a wooded glen area overlooking the estuary.

It was the popular thing to do at the time. With an absence of official information on the stone, assumptions can only be made on its relevance.

To begin with…the stone opened an enormous debate…

The older generation questioned the monument on its relevancy; it was an addition; why do we need it? What benefit is it? the younger generation argued that this was all part of change and that the monument provided a fresh way of thinking about everyone’s place in the area.

But the older generation’s argument on why this should be done stumped the younger generation who knew it was important but did not enough experience to comment on it or compare it to any previous experience of a project.

But it was agreed after much debate and negotiation to erect the stone but from the beginning a great debate ensued on many issues amongst the young and old….and perhaps many questions such as…

How positive or negative is this project?

What type of stone should it be?

How high should it be?

How intrusive should it be?

What direction should it face?

Who is going to source the stone?

Who is going to move the stone into position?

What is my part in all of this?

How will this stone add to the sense of place in Ballinlough?

How would do this monument fit into the everyday routine of life? What type of people will live around this stone?

Who is going to mind this stone?

 

But many of these questions were negotiated as were the logistics and the stone was put in place.

Many many many years later, the good people living in Ballinlough chose to build a housing estate around the stone; again many questions ensued…

Should we take down the stone?

What type of houses should they be?

How high should they be?

How intrusive should they be?

What direction should they face?

Who is going to source the materials?

Who is going to construct the houses?

What is my part in all of this?

How will the houses add to the sense of place in Ballinlough?

How would do this monument fit into the everyday routine of life? What type of people will live in these new houses?

Who is going to mind the new estate?

 

Indeed the questions of why, how, where are age old questions asked of any community but the answers or debates arising out of some of these questions can change the attitude of a community for years.

In the two examples I have chosen, they are I feel are positive examples.

The stone has remained in place for over 4,500 years, insitu. Indeed Ardmahon Estate was built around it –it is testament to the history that Ballinlough has had a community and a strength of purpose since those centuries B.C. plus all the questions that go with it.

But we don’t live in 2,500 BC but perhaps one can learn from their experience.

Passing the area today, there is the sense of building on what has gone in the past to build into the future, that sense of a conversation with the past and future


The stone shows in a sense the immortality of community in Ballinlough, the experience of community in a time we cannot relate to temporally or in a time sense


 

However, like the stone and the housing estate Ballinlough enters another time of change – a time when Ballinlough once again has to take stock of where it’s at and again reflect on the type of mark we want to put on the community in our time. There are now new debates, financial, unemployment, youth issues, provision of adequate services for older people. Perhaps it may be apt to focus some of the questions on our own community structures?

How positive or negative is what we are doing?

What type of community should we have? Conformist to inspiring?

How high should our community aim? Low to high?

How intrusive should be our efforts on the wider community?

What direction should our community take? Forwards or backwards

Who is going to source the community to that? Who is the team?

Who is going to manoeuvre the debates into position? Who is the listener and negotiator?

What is my part in all of this?

How will this work add to the sense of place in Ballinlough?

 

And as this community in its multiple housing estates are evolving, there are multiple questions to ask; perhaps I am zooming in on just one important foundation, the identity itself of this area.

There are no easy answers but guaranteed hard work and ability to have the patience of jobe and an interest in making things happen.

There are responsibilities on all of us to move the various projects within our community forward.  But I do wish to commend all the work that is being done.

I would also like to thank the people of Ballinlough for their interest and support in my own community projects,

the enterprise workshops,

artist residency programme,

the Design a Public Park, art and public space art competition,

the community talent competition (auditions again for which are on next Sunday, between 11-5 in the Lifetime Lab),

the history in action programme or the re-enactment programme that takes place in Our Lady of Lourdes N.S on Sunday 13 May at 2pm

The Make a Model Boat Project on the Atlantic Pod (on Sunday 10 June 2012),

and the walking tours through this area, the one of eastern Ballinlough looking at big houses, market gardens, the 1911 census, amongst others and the standing stone, and the other of the western side of St Finbarre’s Hospital and environs. I intend to run these again in June.

As these are part of a larger heritage project, my new walking tour of Blackrock I have set for Sunday 13 May leaving from Blackrock Castle and exploring the myriad of memories in this area from the 400 year castle to the fishing village, the Victorian houses, the two churches, the graveyard to name just a few. Ballinlough Church was a chapel of ease in the parish of Blackrock to 1956, so there is abit of a connection there.

Best of luck in the year ahead, it is not easy in these times, so certainty the more positivity that radiated from this hallowed community space and grounds the better in these. As those who are here a long time will have realised by now, people will give out before they will say thanks. So in these AGMs, there should always be the sense of thanks and renewal of spirit.

Thank you for your work,

Go Raibh Maith Agaibh

Blackrock Historical Walking Tour, Sunday 13 May 2012

As part of ongoing research project into the local history of the south-east ward, Cllr Kieran McCarthy will conduct a historical walking tour of Blackrock Village on Sunday 13 May 2012, 6.30pm, leaving from Blackrock Castle (approx 1 ½ hours, free event).

The earliest and official evidence for settlement in Blackrock dates to c.1564 when the Galway family created what was to become known as Dundanion Castle. Over 20 years later, Blackrock Castle was built circa 1582 by the citizens of Cork with artillery to resist pirates and other invaders. In the early 1700s, the prominent Tuckey family, of which Tuckey Street in the city centre is named, became part of the new social elite in Cork after the Williamite wars and built part of what became known in time at the Ursuline Convent. The building of the Navigation Wall or Dock in the 1760s turned focus to reclamation projects in the area and the eventual creation of public amenity land such as the Marina Walk during the time of the Great Famine. The early 1800s coincided with an enormous investment into creating new late Georgian mansions by many other key Cork families, such as the Chattertons, the Frends, the McMullers, Deanes and the Nash families, amongst others. Soon Blackrock was to have its own bathing houses, schools, hurling club, suburban railway line, and Protestant and Catholic Church. The pier that was developed at the heart of the space led to a number of other developments such as fisherman cottages and a fishing industry. This community is reflected in the 1911 census with 64 fisherman listed in Blackrock.

Cllr Kieran McCarthy noted: “A stroll in Blackrock is popular by many people, local and Cork people. The area is particularly characterised by beautiful architecture, historic landscapes and imposing late Georgian and early twentieth century country cottages; every structure points to a key era in Cork’s development. Blackrock is also lucky that many of its former residents have left archives, census records, diaries, old maps and insights into how the area developed, giving an insight into ways of life, ideas and ambitions in the past, some of which can help us in the present day in understanding Blackrock’s identity going forward.”


McCarthy’s Community Talent Competition 2012

Second call, auditions for the fourth year of McCarthy’s Community Talent Competition will take place on Sunday 29 April 2012, 11-5pm, Lifetime Lab. All talents are considered, open to primary and secondary school students, more information will be posted. Pictures from last year are at the link here, http://kieranmccarthy.ie/?p=6448

Kieran’s Speech, Blackrock Community Association 2012 AGM

Kieran’s Speech, Blackrock Community Association AGM, 13 March 2012

 

Madame Chairperson, members of the committee

On the 1 October 1962, the Cork Examiner ran the following key headline,

“Kennedy’s troops mass for race war showdown”.

The first paragraph of the report read:

“The First US Federal marshals began arriving at Oxford (Mississippi) Airport yesterday to enforce court orders that a 29-year negro ex-serviceman be admitted to the all-white University of Mississippi. What began as the refusal of Mississippi officials to obey court orders to admit the negro, Mr. James Meredith into the university has grown into a full trial of strength between the US government and the southern state.

It is the most serious clash between the Government of and a state of the Union since the American civil War of a hundred years ago. From various neighbouring segregationalist states have come pledges of support totalling ‘tens of thousands’ of volunteers to assist Mississippi Governor Ross Barnett.”

Many students harassed Meredith during his two semesters on campus but others accepted him. According to first-person accounts, students living in Meredith’s dorm bounced basketballs on the floor just above his room through all hours of the night. Other students ostracized him: when Meredith walked into the cafeteria for meals, the students eating would turn their backs. If Meredith sat at a table with other students, all of whom were white, the students would immediately get up and go to another table.

On the same page, another headline ran “All set for US Space Flight”.

“A huge task force of ships, aircraft and men were assembling throughout the world yesterday in preparation for Walter Schirra’s six-orbit space flight due to be launched at Cape Canaveral, Florida on Wednesday. If the flight goes off to plan, Commander Schirra will become America’s fifth spaceman and holder of the US long-distance space record.“

On October 3, 1962, Schirra became the fifth American in space, piloting a rocket on a six-orbit mission lasting 9 hours, 13 minutes, and 11 seconds. The capsule attained a velocity of 17,557 miles per hour (28,255 km/h) and an altitude of 175 statute miles (282 km), and landed within 4 miles (6.4 km) of the main Pacific Ocean recovery ship.

If anything, the 1 October 1962 showed a world of change from questions of equality to questions of ambition – new foundations of change swept across society yet again.

In headlines that showed but a weariness of change and an excitement of discovery, the headlines indirectly point out that nothing remains the same and the world keeps turning.

Caught between the main headline “US Crisis Nears Climax and “All Set for US Space Flight” was a more local story that read “Laid Foundation Stone”.

Beneath a central picture, the caption read;

“His Lordship Most Rev. Dr. Lucey, Bishop of Cork and Ross, laying the foundation stone of the new parish church of St Michael the Archangel at Blackrock, Cork. The new building will replace that destroyed by fire about eight months ago.”

On page 7 inside, a headline ran, “Redoubled Effort urged for new Cork Church”.

In a statement after the ceremony, Bishop Lucey said that:

“The blessing at Blackrock like the burning was something to remember….it is only just eight months since the old church was destroyed. In a matter almost of days the site was being cleared and plans for the new church drafted, the money for the building was being collected within and without the parish…we have a good architect for it in Mr. Boyd Barrett and I am satisfied that in line and design it will be beautiful”.

Cork’s Fold Magazine in April 1962 noted of the church:

“It had been one of the most distinguished and attractive churches in Cork for more than 130 years since 1819. It had acquired an atmosphere of intimacy and continuous devotion, which appealed greatly to visitors, as well as to the large local congregation, who have become much more numerous than its founders had ever foreseen. Its total destruction in broad daylight, within an hour of the outbreak of the fire, was a disaster that could not have been imagined. In fact the sudden conflagration quickly filled the church with such dense smoke that the firemen could not operate inside. Their efforts to play water on the roof were unavailing until it had collapsed into a blazing furnace.”


Burning of St Michael's Church, Blackrock, 1962

 

Walking around the present St Michael’s it is a beautiful building.

I like the location of the church, the way it seems to be nestled into a wooded area as seen from Montenotte.

Its high spire is reminiscent of an earlier age of architecture reaching for the heavens but also reminiscent of the new age of space rockets and reaching out beyond technology.

The lofty and colourful stained glass windows, which cast beautiful colours across the church perhaps remind one of the importance of colour.

I like the beautiful carved altar and its craftsmanship.

The location, its reaching for something higher, its colour and craftsmanship have transcended time to our time.

The church is soulful and purposeful – something motivating and ambitious. Something that has a voice. For the visitor, regular who sits on the same pew every Sunday, explorer, or geographer like me, this human built fabric creates a sacred landscape of encounters, experiences, connections, journeys, ideas and re-interpretations.

The story of this church shows us much – talent, confidence, self pride, self belief and innovation. And ladies and gentlemen, in the Ireland of today, we need more of such confidence, pride and belief and innovation– we need to mass produce these qualities and step by step approaches to pursue them.

And perhaps the idea of community is a process more than something static

But certainly the process becomes positively charged when the metronome of time veers from the weariness of change to the excitement of discovery.

I wish to congratulate you on the year gone by and your efforts and endeavours in that time. I would like to thank you for your courtesy and welcome shown to me at the summer céilí, which were great craic. Indeed anytime I appear in this community haven, I am challenged to either speak or sing or both…

I would also like to thank the people of Blackrock for their interest and support in my own community projects, the enterprise workshops, artist residency programme, the community talent competition, the make a model boat project on the Atlantic Pod, the Design A Public Park, Art Competition and the walking tour down the old Rail line, which is also now in lecture form.

My new walking tour of Blackrock I have set May leaving from Blackrock Castle and exploring the myriad of memories in this area from the 400 year castle to the fishing village, the Victorian houses, the two churches, the graveyard to name just a few.

Best of luck in the year ahead,

Go Raibh Maith Agaibh

 

Present Day St. Michael's Roman Catholic Church Blackrock

Interior of the nineteenth century St. Michael's Church, Blackrock