Monthly Archives: November 2013

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 28 November 2013

719a. The Viaduct, Ballydehob, c.1900

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 28 November 2013

Technical Memories (Part 62) –Engineering Success”

 

Following on from my recent column on Cork in 1945 and promoting the new book West Cork Through Time book, the announcement of the re-opening of the branch railway lines in the winter of 1945, which were closed during the war was received with positivity.  Providing access between West Cork and Cork City for the general public including visitors and farmers was the Cork Bandon and South Coast Railway line. The Cork-Bandon line opened to the public on 6 December 1851. The Cork terminus was on Albert Quay, which had three passenger platforms, a carriage storage area, and sidings into the Cork Corporation’s stone yard and into the corn market. The Cork-Bandon Railway Project was an enormous undertaking. The main parts included; the longest railway tunnel in Ireland at Goggins Hill; the Chetwynd Viaduct; a short tunnel bridge under old Blackrock Road near the Albert Quay Terminus; 21 cuttings, 19 embankments and 15 road bridges. The Bandon terminus is now the offices of the Bandon Urban District Council. 

Between 1852 and 1894, a further 25 engines were acquired by the railway company.  Between 1851 and 1893, the mileage of the West Cork line, extended from 25 to 94 miles. Many West Cork towns attained their own railway stations; Kinsale (1863), Clonakilty (1866), Dunmanway (1866), Drimoleague (1877), Skibbereen (1877), Bantry (1881),  Timoleague and Courtmacsherry (1890), Bantry Bay (1892), and Baltimore (1893). Several of the stations and platforms such as those in Drimoleague have survived since the closure of the line in 1961 (due to faster modes of travel such as buses and cars). Opened in 1886, the Skibbereen to Schull line had numerous problems from geological to mechanical issues. The terrain was a constant problem. The gradients and rough land meant that locomotives could only pull three of four times their own weight. This meant that engines like the “Gabriel” named after a mountain to the north of Schull, which started work in 1906 could only attain a maximum speed of 15 miles an hour.

An article on 1 December 1945 in the Evening Echo describes the re-start of the Schull and Skibbereen Light Railway whose re-opening was welcomed by many local people and visitors to the region. The journalist remarked of the scenery; “It is a charming country, which retains a quality of remoteness that is not due to its distances. Off the track of arterial traffic, it by no means suffers from isolation, but at the same time, gives an impression of being self-contained and self-reliant. This quiet distinctiveness and air of placid content constitute a good deal of the charm which visitors find there”.

The journalist writes about an efficient service but “unhurried, free of all business and very sociable”. He recalls his first trip over the line on a crowded summer’s day when an excursion ran the whole length of the line from Skibbereen to Schull, where a regatta was being held. The town of Skibbereen contributed its hundred passengers, and the small stations along the route added their own numbers. Beside the expanding Ilen river, the train went slowly and with “much gentle puffings”, enabled the passengers to have a fine panoramic view of the waters that host ‘Carbery’s Hundred Isles’. As the train gathered more passengers along the way, the little engine “panted more heavily, but made a brave, carefree, vigorous sprint wherever the line offered freewheel facilities”. At Ballydehob, the wide expanse of Schull harbour, Dunmanus Bay and the farther waters of Bantry and Berehaven could be viewed. On this heavy excursion train, every available unit of the passenger carrying rolling stock was pressed into service. Even the guard’s van was filled to overflowing and scores of passengers carried scores more, in terms of children, on their knees. Gallantly the train tried and gallantly it failed.

Determined to take a steep gradient after Ballydehob, the crowd on this day cheered and then a tense silence followed as the “heavily labouring locomotive, ground its way upwards, its puff-puffs becoming slower and more sobbing in tone”. “She’ll do it!” some of the passengers noted hopefully; others shook their heads. Heaving nearly reached the crest of the gradient, there came to the strained ears of the crowded coaches “one mighty sobbing puff that failed to double itself into a puff-puff, and with a hissing of futile steam the train came to a standstill. There were no bitter comments, no reproaches, and if there was disappointment, it was softened by a sympathy for the engine that had tried and failed”. It was agreed that the gradient and the trainload created a position that was unreasonable and unfair to any engine. The train reversed back into the station. A couple of coaches at the rear were swiftly uncoupled and left behind, while the rest of the train went off, taking the gradient “without one faltering breath”. Later the locomotive retraced its journey, gathered up the rest of the train, and after warning blasts of the whistle proceeded with any lingering and remaining patrons to Schull.

West Cork Through Time by Kieran McCarthy and Dan Breen is available in any good Cork book shop and on Amazon. It is published by Amberley Publishing, UK.

 

Caption:

719a. The Viaduct, Ballydehob (source: Cork Museum)

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, ‘West Cork Through Time’, 21 November 2013

718a. West Cork Through Time, title page by Kieran McCarthy and Dan Breen

Article 718- 21 November 2013

Kieran’s New Book – West Cork Through Time

 

One cannot but be drawn in – taken on a journey in West Cork. The use of postcards in my new book, co-written with Dan Breen, Assistant Curator in Cork City Museum, are an attempt to illuminate this region’s past. This book is ambitious in its aims as it takes the reader on a journey into one of the most dramatic landscapes of Ireland. 

West Cork is known for many aspects, its scenery, its serenity, its culture and its people. The book explores 100 postcards of the West Cork region from one hundred years (c.1913) and follows in the footsteps of photographers to retake the same scenes in the present day. The old postcards, sourced from the collections of Cork City Museum, represent many memories and representations of the West Cork region. These postcards were sold to visitors and locals a century ago. In their day, they were never neatly packaged in one publication nor could one ever buy them all in one go in a particular place.

The book takes the reader from Bandon to Castletownbere through the changing and the non-changing face of landscapes and seascapes and provides an insight into the uniquenesses of the region. The necklace of towns and villages are all linked together through a striking section of Ireland’s coastline, over 320 kilometres in length, encompassing a raw coastal wilderness with expansive inlets continuously being eroded away by the Atlantic Ocean. With exquisite coastal scenery, add in undulating inland landscapes criss-crossed by mountains, hill, streams and rivers, imposing old world air villages and the visitor finds a discovery at every bend of the road.

Researching West Cork, the visitor discovers that each parish has its own local historian, historical society, village/ town council, tidy towns group, community group and business community who have inspired the creation of heritage trails and information panels, each asserting why its area has a strong sense of place and identity and why it should be visited. Relics from the past also haunt the landscape with prominent landmarks ranging from Bronze Age standing stones to ivy clad ruined houses and castles, churches and big houses, to cultivated farmlands. All add to the spectacle that is West Cork.

The winding roads bring the visitor on an experience through landscapes, many of which are frozen in time for centuries. There are places that charm, catch and challenge the eye especially in the quest to retake photos on hundred years on. Chapter 1 begins with an exploration of what could be described a gateway country into West Cork; the towns of Bandon and Clonakilty were all founded 400 years ago and are central to a ribbon of market towns and villages in their vicinity such as Dunmanway and Drimoleague. All are set against the backdrop of a raw glaciated mountainous landscape and the Bandon river valley and its tributaries.

Chapter 2 explores the settlements and views along the coast from Courtmacsherry to Mizen Head, which is Ireland’s south-westerly point. Here are multiple beaches, large bays, rocky inlets, islands and many twists in the coastal roads that the visitor endures in the attempt to explore this landscape. Chapter 3 details the regional pilgrimage site of Gougane Barra. According to legend, Cork City’s patron saint, Finbarr, is said to have had a monastery on an island in the middle of the area’s lake at the base of the Shehy Mountains. Many pilgrims have visited this peaceful site over many centuries. Some have left their mark more than others, in terms of raising funding and acquiring human resources to enhance the collective memory of Finbarr through the construction of pilgrimage cells and oratory.

Chapter 4 leads the visitor on a journey from Bantry to Bere Island. The drama of the landscape here is amazing as coastal roads loom out into the coast and loom back in through tunnelled out rock. To experience the western tip of this study area, Bere Island, on any morning is an experience and breath-taking as the sun or rain or just a few clouds can change the character of the location. Chapter 5 explores the Cork-Bandon and South Coast Railway, which cut a route into the heart of West Cork one hundred years ago, and provided a means of goods transportation and a slow method or enjoying the countryside, especially in an age where the car and even good quality roads were rare.

In all, this book, through pictures of the old and new, comprises a myriad of stories of different shapes, patterns and colours just like a painter’s palette of colours.  Every picture presented is charged with that emotional sense of nostalgia – the past shaping and inspiring present thoughts, ideas and actions. However, this book only scratches the surface of what this region has to offer. West Cork in itself is a way of life where generations, individuals and communities, have etched out their lives. It is a place of discovery, of inspiration, a place of peace and contemplation, and a place to find oneself in the world. There is even more to offer the tourist today than there was a hundred years ago. What’s the best way to see West Cork – travel through it, sense it and enjoy it!

West Cork Through Time is available in any good Cork book shop and on Amazon. It is published by Amberley Publishing, UK.

 

Caption:

718a. Front cover of West Cork Through Time by Kieran McCarthy and Dan Breen

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 14 November 2013

717a. Ration book, 1944, source Clare Museum

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 14 November 2013

Technical Memories (Part 61) –Re-Rationing Éire

 

Many people contributed to the success of the Crawford Municipal Technical Institute through the years. The obituaries in the Cork Examiner and Evening Echo on 20 November 1945 for Dean Patrick Sexton, a member of the governing committee of the institute reveal a learned man who placed a huge emphasis on role of education in society. One of his greatest achievements was the building of St Patrick’s National School for boys on Ballyhooly Road, considered at the time as one of the most modern and best equipped schools in the country.

At least once a week Dean Sexton visited the four national schools in his parish of St Patrick’s. He taught the children music for the mass. He was also a founder member of the Christian Brothers’ College Past Pupils’ Union and was Vice-President of that body. The Dean was one of those who introduced the Catholic Boy Scout and Catholic Girl Guide movements to Cork. He was chairman of St Patrick’s Scout Committee and Vice President of the Scout Diocesan Council since 1930, and he was largely responsible for the campaigning and fundraising for a fine Scout headquarters on Summerhill North.

A look at the news stories around November 1945 reveals a country trying to rebuild its own economy – to move forward from a time of rationing. During a speech by Seán Lemass TD, Minister for Industry at the Retail, Grocers, Dairy and Allied Trades Association in Dublin, he pointed out that a fall in the cost of food would not be effective unless there was also a reduction in the prices of fuel and clothing. Butter and sugar rationing would be continued into 1946 whilst the importation of tea was governed by British suppliers who were still experiencing export problems; According to Lemass “the three main essential foodstuffs still scarce are butter, sugar and tea…the retention of the present six ounce butter ration for the whole of the present winter instead of a temporary increase to eight ounces for three months as in last winter is due to our decision, of which the Dáil and the public unanimously approved to ship the largest possible quantity to Europe in relief of stress arising from the war”.

Similar discussions on garages being able to fix cars and petrol rationing were discussed in the local newspapers. On 30 October 1945 the Evening Echo ran the story that the prospect of the early resumption of private motoring was being warmly welcomed by proprietors of garages. One proprietor told one reporter that quite a number of private owners had already taken out licences for private cars that had not been driven since a prohibition order against petrol and gas use from 1942. They were ensured that their particular vehicles were going to have first claim on the garages for tuning up for the road. One of the greatest difficulties of all was that of the supply of batteries; the vast lying-up period made them useless or either through neglect on the part of the owners.

Basic petrol rations were restored to private motorists from 19 November 1945 and an extension carried out of bus services up to 11pm in Cork, Dublin, Limerick and Galway. The monthly ration for private cars was eight gallons, for cars under 10 hp, ten gallon for cars of 10hp and upwards but less than 16 hp and upwards. For motorcycles, the allowance was two gallons for a lightweight bicycle and four gallons for a heavy weight bicycle. Doctors, clergymen and persons who were on special professional allowances were allowed to retain their allowances. Another interesting note comes from a mention on the 22 November 1945 in the Cork Examiner and the work of erecting the first traffic islands in Cork City. The bases of some of the demolished air raids shelters on the Grand Parade formed the foundation for the first of these islands.

In this time of rebuilding there was a need for engineers and for construction personnel right not only across Europe but also across Ireland as the country attempted to plan ahead. Certainly the Crawford Municipal Technical Institute was well placed to respond to these needs.  For example at a Cork Harbour Board meeting on 8 November 1945, discussion took place on the city’s quays and wharves and how they had outlived their “period of usefulness”. It was proposed to embark on a large scheme of reconstruction and re-organisation – it was noted that the methods of handling cargoes were deemed antiquated and obsolete. The chairman, T. O’Shea argued; “we lag behind Dublin, Limerick, and Waterford, and we are a long way behind Belfast. If we are to survive as an overseas port, we must rebuild our deep-water quays. We must be able to swing ships at Cork, and we must have faster and more up-to-date methods for discharging cargoes”. Days later at the annual meeting of the Cork Chamber of Commerce, on 12 November 1945, a proposal was discussed regarding calls to government to build both aerodrome and seadrome facilities to be made available in the neighbourhood of Cork Harbour – as alternatives to those in existence at Rineanna and Foynes on the Shannon Estuary and Collinstown in Dublin.

To be continued…

 

Caption:

717a. Ration book, 1944 (source: Clare County Library)

Kieran’s Question to the City Manager and Motions, Cork City Council Meeting, 11 November 2013

 

Question to the Manager:

To ask the manager for an update on the revamp of Boole House on Bachelor’s Quay? (Cllr Kieran McCarthy)

 

Motions:

That this Council work with the Church of Ireland, Shandon to help fix its iconic clock faces (Cllr Kieran McCarthy)

 

That this Council work with the owner of the site of McCarthy’s Monument on Blackrock Road to clean it up (Cllr Kieran McCarthy)

McCarthy’s Cork Docklands Walking Tour

Cllr Kieran McCarthy’s tour of Cork Docklands takes place on Saturday 9 November leaving at 2pm from Kennedy Park on Victoria Road (free, two hours).  Some of the themes covered in the talk will be the development of such sites as the Marina and the Atlantic Pond and how they came into being, and the historic structures that still exist in the area. Much of the story of Cork’s modern development is represented in their environs. The origin of the current Docklands is a product of centuries of reclamation and negotiation of swampland.

Cllr McCarthy noted: “Ever since Viking age time over 1,000 years ago, boats of all different shapes and sizes have been coming in and out of Cork’s riverine and harbour region continuing a very long legacy of trade. Port trade was and still is the engine in Cork’s development. To complement the growth of the port, extensive reclamation of swampland took place as well as physical infrastructure quays, wharfs and warehouses.  I’m a big fan of the different shapes of these wharfs, especially the timber ones that have survived since the 1870s. Perhaps the theme that runs through the new walking tour is connections. The tour explores very interesting sites such as Jewtown, Hibernian Buildings, the old electricity power station, the Gas Works, the Docks, the old City Park Racecourse, the early story of Fords, and Kennedy Park. All these topics are all about connecting the city to wider themes of exportation and importation of goods, people and ideas into the city through the ages”.

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 7 November 2013

716a. Dean Patrick Sexton

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 7 November 2013

Technical Memories (Part 60) – Apostles of Education

 

During late summer before the walking tour season, the column focussed on life in the Crawford Municipal Technical Institute in the 1930s and early 1940s. Like most organisations, World War II had a profound effect on the organisation in terms of funding cutbacks. Despite that, the Institute provided a range of day and nights courses in a variety of subjects. Guy’s Directory of Cork in 1945 lists the following: Engineering – motor car engineering, electrical engineering, chemistry and physics, building construction, carpentry and joinery, cabinet making, plumbing, botany and gardening, Materia Medica, typography, tailors’ cutting, domestic science, machine knitting, shirt-making, telegraphy, telephony, pharmacy, flour milling, power machine work, and continuation courses.

In the archives for the VEC in the Cork City and County Archives, regular conversaziones are listed at the Institute. For example at one of three evenings in October 1945 (15th, 16th and 17th), the principal speaker Professor Alfred O’Rahilly, President of UCC (since 1943) spoke about the importance of vocational education. It is unrecorded what he said but a week earlier as noted in the Cork Examiner Professor O’Rahilly, at the conferring of degrees in UCC, he commented that there were difficult economic times ahead coming out of war torn Europe and that developing professions should concentrate on quality rather than on quantity. With reference to British restrictions on the employment of doctors, the professor argued that there was room in Ireland for more doctors and for a greater medical service and also room for expansion in the other professions. The annual output of medical men from the English and Scottish colleges, he described was about 2,000, and this figure was maintained during the war years. In addition, there were some 20,000 doctors in the British army and it was contemplated that about 8,000 of these would be demobilised before Christmas 1945. Hence, British medical graduates were given preference to jobs. In this light, this made the search for jobs for Irish medical graduates very difficult in Britain.

On the challenge of emigration in the country, O’Rahilly argued that it was not that UCC wished to cater for an export market but that “in a small country like this, the matter was one outside our control; we would wish as far as possible to give preference to our home professions…all we can do here is to equip our graduates not merely with the technical knowledge which they require as professional men and women, but to look to give them as well a proper philosophy of life. So that when they leave this country they will be lay apostles to carry with them something more than mere laboratory or classroom techniques”.

Guy’s Directory of Cork for 1945 lists J F King as the principal of the institute. The committee overseeing it included its chairman, Mr William Ellis as well as members Alderman James Hickey, Alderman Richard S Anthony, TD, Alderman Jeremiah R Connolly, Councillor C Connolly, W Furlong TD, P J O’Brien, Right Rev Dean Sexton PP, Very Rev Dean Babington, Rev Bro H S Byrne, Rev Bro Austin, Michael Egan, James Crosbie, and James Barry. The chaplain was Canon Edward J Fitzgerald who is recorded in the VEC minute books as providing a yearly mass at the start of the September term in the South Chapel for students of the Institute in the 1940s. He was parish priest in the South Chapel from 1924 to 1948. He was the son of Sir Edward Fitzgerald, Lord Mayor of Cork (1901-1903). In May 1955, when the parish of Ballinlough was constituted a separate parish from Blackrock, Canon Fitzgerald became its first parish priest.

One of the Institute’s committee members Dean Sexton, who offered a huge contribution to the Institute died on 20 November 1945. According to the Evening Echo on that evening, the Right Rev Monsignor Patrick Sexton received his early education at the North Monastery and at Christian Brothers’ College, where he was one of the first pupils. He studied for the priesthood at St Finbarr’s Diocesan Seminary and at St Patrick’s College, Maynooth, where he was ordained in June 1896. He served at the Dunboyne establishment for about three years where he took out his degree of Doctor of Divinity. His grasp at theology was recognised when he was appointed to All Hallows College, Dublin as Professor of Dogmatic Theology.

Sexton became well known that when the Presidency of Farranferris came up in 1906, and he took the position. During his seventeen years as President he effected many improvements in the college where he took an active interest in every aspect of its welfare. In June 1923 Dr Sexton was appointed Pastor of Blackrock. However after three months, on the death of Rev Dean Shinkwin, Sexton was made parish priest of St Patrick’s Parish and became Dean of Cork. He was in Berlin at the outbreak of World War II, when he was researching German methods of education. On the night war was declared, he was taken into custody but released soon again on condition of reporting to the police every three days. He crossed into neutral Holland four months after his enforced stay in Berlin.

To be continued…

Caption:

716a. Dean Patrick Sexton (source: Cork City Library)