Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 6 June 2013

Kieran’s City Walking Tours, June 2013

This year I bring the summer walking tours of Cork City centre back during the month of June, on Tuesday evenings (11^th, 18^th, 25^th), and Friday evening, 14^th. The tours begin at the National Monument on the Grand Parade, at 7pm on those evenings and explore the City Centre’s early development on a swamp. The tour costs e.10 per person and children under 12 are free. No booking is required, just turn up on the evening. Further information if needed can be attained from me at 0876553389.

The tour is based on my publication Discover Cork, which was published ten years ago as a guide to the city’s history. In this book I outline the city’s development and it opens with eminent Cork writer Daniel Corkery’s account of the city in his The Threshold of Quiet (1917) which highlights well the physical landscape of Cork City:

“Leaving us, the summer visitor says in his good humoured way that Cork is quite a busy place…as hundrum a collection of odds and ends as ever went by the name of city – are flung higgledy piggledy together into a narrow double-streamed, many bridged river valley, jostled and jostling, so compacted that the mass throws up a froth and flurry that confuses the stray visitor…for him this is Cork”.

One of the distinct questions that arises out of his narrative relates to the query, who could have built such a landscape. It was a combination of native and outside influences, primarily people that shaped its changing townscape and society since its origins as a settlement. The city possesses a unique character derived from a combination of its plan, topography, built fabric and its location. Indeed, it is also a city that is unique among other cities, it is the only one which has experienced all phases of Irish urban development, from circa 600 A.D. to the present day.

The settlement began as a monastic centre in the seventh century, overlooking a series of marshy islands on which the present day city centre grew and flourished; it was transformed into a Viking port and the advent of the Anglo-Normans led to the creation of a prosperous walled town; it grew through the influx of English colonists during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries and suffered the political problems inherent in Irish Society at that time; it was altered significantly again through Georgian and Victorian times when reclamation of its marshes became a priority along with the construction of spacious streets and grand town houses; its docks, warehouses exhibit the impact of the industrial revolution; and in the last one hundred years, Corkonians have witnessed both the growth of extensive suburbs and the rejuvenation of the inner city.

Perhaps, the most important influence in the city’s development is the River Lee, an element which has witnessed the city grow from monastic Cork through the Celtic Tiger City of the twenty-first century. Originally, the city centre was a series of marshy islands, which the Irish for the city, “Corcaigh” translated marshes reflects. The river splits into two channels just west of the city centre, and hence flows around the city centre, leaving it in an island situation. The urban centre was built on the lowest crossing point of the River Lee, where the river meets the sea. Built on the surrounding valleysides of the River Lee, the city’s suburbs are constructs of the twentieth century where a spiralling population dictated Cork’s expansion beyond its municipal boundaries.

Spliced with the city’s physical development is the story of its people and their contribution in making Cork a city whose history is rich and colourful. The characters are astute, confident, and are often rebellious, a distinctive trait of Corkonians through the ages and are remembered in Cork songs, statues, street-names and oral tradition. Corkonians make Cork unique. Their characteristics have been noted through the centuries, from visitors to antiquarian writers. All agree that its people are warm and very sociable. Joking is an essential characteristic of Corkonians. As one antiquarian, Byran Cody in 1859 put it, conversational power is the test of intellectual culture in Cork. A Corkonian is a good talker and the conversation is usually seasoned with spicy anecdotes and pleasant bits of scandal.

A walk through St Patrick Street or affectionately known as ‘Pana’ will reveal the warmth of its people, the rich accent, the hustle and bustle of a great city. As Robert Gibbings, poet and writer put it in 1944, “Cork is the loveliest city in the world, anyone who doesn’t agree with me either was not born there or is prejudiced. The streets are wide, the quays are clean, the bridges are noble and people that you have never met in your life stop you in the street for a conversation”. Not only can each person tell you a story about Cork but its streets, buildings and bridges also do. They echo the rich historic and cultural development of the acclaimed southern capital of Ireland.

Back to technical education each week…

Caption:

694a. Bishop Lucey Park in recent sunshine (picture: Kieran McCarthy)

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 30 May 2013

Technical Memories (Part 56) – Air Raids and Housing

Following on from last week, the city’s preparations for World War II make interesting reading in the Cork Examiner. At a meeting of Cork Corporation on Tuesday evening, 24 October 1939, a report by City Manager, Philip Monahan, was presented to the councillors on possible air raid precautions. These carried an estimated cost of £107,490.

A proposed scheme of precautions divided the city naturally into four sections-(1) medical, (2) engineering, (3) fire prevention and (4) civilian training. Medical precautions involved the securing of additional hospital accommodation and the establishment of first-aid posts and first aid depots. The former were to be for the treatment of casualties and the latter for the housing of first-aid services, such as ambulances and first-aid parties. Engineering precautions involved the establishment of posts for the repair of damaged roads and the creation of posts to decontaminate gas-infested areas. Fire prevention entailed the establishment of additional fire brigade stations and the recruitment of auxiliary firemen. Civilian training involved the establishment of an air warden and messenger service. Air wardens were to patrol small districts under district and area wardens. Their duties were to assist residents in their districts in all air-raid precaution work, such as darkening windows and fitting gas marks.

In the report it was proposed that medical precautions should be under the Corporation’s Medical Officer of Health, engineering precautions under the City Engineer, fire precautions under the Chief Officer of the Fire Brigade and civilian training under the Housing Superintendent, and all being responsible to the City Manager. The Minister of Defence had divided the city into three areas- one south of the North Channel of the Lee, the remainder of the city being divided into two areas by a line running through St Patrick’s Bridge – areas to the north west and north east of St Patrick’s Hill respectively. In each of these areas a depot for each of the four branches of air-raid precaution work was proposed. For the north-west area the depots were to be on MacCurtain Street and between Dillon’s Cross and St Luke’s, while for the South side, the Corporation Yard, Anglesea Street, and the Municipal Baths, Eglingon Street, were to be used.

The different Corporation officers gave an estimate of the cost of their proposals, in total £107,490. The Minister of Defence accepted responsibility for the provision of fire fighting equipment over and above the normal requirements of the city and to pay seven-tenths of cost of other approved expenditure on air-raid precautions. No specific instructions were received as to the construction of air-raid shelters. The estimate included provision of air-raid shelters for 30,000 households in different parts of the city and cost was based on the assumption that steel and timber was not readily available.

The observations by the councillors were multiple but zoned in on the point that the Corporation should not be charged at the full price for the lighting by the ESB as the lighting would be turned off due to curfews. The entire scheme was referred internally again to committees. I’m uncertain as to how much of the above scheme was adopted as I have not managed to trace the outcomes in the media of the time.

There was also an observation by one councillor that if the Corporation were going to spend over £100,000 for putting people safely underground, they should get money as well to house people safely over ground. Corporation housing construction continued apace in the late 1930s with vast slum clearance projects and new Corporation housing schemes being developed in Spangle Hill and Greenmount. Local Studies in the City Library have a great set of aerial photos of the city from 1945 which show the layout of the city and also newly built housing in its suburbs. In one, one can see the Crawford Municipal Technical Institute and just to the north, the Corporation housing scheme of Greenmount.

In the Cork Examiner on 28 October 1937, plans were published for a social housing scheme in Greenmount comprising two hundred and seventy houses occupying thirteen acres of land situated between Green Street, Barrack Street, Tower Street and Friar’s Walk. The area was in the ownership of the Presentation Brothers Order. The Brothers afforded the Corporation the opportunity to acquire the land. Pre to development the land was used as pasture, though there were some 30 farm buildings and old cottages on parts of it. They were cleared as part of the scheme. The new houses were to be of the usual type of Corporation dwelling, complete with bathroom and hot and cold water, and in addition a large size garden front and rear. In addition to two main thoroughfares, there was to be eight cul-de-sac entrances twelve feet wide to the different blocks of houses, ending in a circular turning which was to enable motor cars, horse-drawn carts and other vehicles to turn. The scheme represented the first big scheme, similar to the Gurranabraher and Spangle Hill development, undertaken on the southern side of the city by the Corporation, and was to allow them to proceed with necessary slum clearance nearby.

To be continued…

Caption:

693a. Aerial view of Cork’s southern suburbs in 1945, showing Crawford Municipal Technical Institute in the fore left and the new developed houses at Greenmount in the centre (picture: Cork City Library).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article, 

Cork Independent, 16 May 2013

Technical Memories (Part 54) – Pre World War II Memories

In an article in the Cork Examiner on 2 September 1939, the Compulsory Continuation Education Scheme, as written about in last week’s article, entered into the second year of its existence in Cork City. During late August 1939, the enrolment and registration of pupils continued apace. It was anticipated that 600 boys and an equal number of girls would avail of the scheme during the 1939-40 year. In the 1938-39 session only boys and girls between the ages of fourteen and fifteen were included but in 1939-40 the age limit was to increase from fourteen to sixteen years. It was estimated that the addition to age limit would mean an increase in the number of pupils, from 950 in the previous year to 1,200 for the ensuing years.

To meet the demands of the increased number, the Cork City Vocational Education Committee, which was charged with the operation of the scheme, felt it necessary, not alone to enlarge their existing schools but also to appoint additional teachers to the compulsory scheme’s teaching staff. Girls enrolled under the scheme attended schools at 2 Emmett Place and 18 Parnell Place while the boys were accommodated at the Grammar Schools at St Patrick’s Place. At St Patrick’s Place, the committee acquired further space and built two new classrooms and a workshop. While at the girls’ school at Parnell Place, alterations were also carried out and a new kitchen for domestic economy erected. For the 1937-38 years, the committee had a total of two woodworking shops and four kitchens at the different schools but owing to the increased number of pupils they would in time three woodworking shop and five kitchens.

Increases in the teaching staff were also necessary by the addition of one manual instructor and two domestic economy instructresses. The man in charge was J Whooley, headmaster, who worked with three whole-time wood-working teachers, four male part time teachers of general subjects, one lady teacher of general subjects, five domestic economy instructresses, and two assistant needle-work teachers. In addition, commenting the Cork Examiner on 2 September 1939 noted: “Without the co-operation of city employers and parents alike, the scheme could not have reached the degree of success that it has”.

On 5 September 1939, the Crawford Municipal Technical Institute advertised their advice to parents to send their boys and girls to the voluntary full-time courses already in existence in the Institute. By attending a course students could pursue their general education, and in addition boys could qualify themselves to enter into local occupations such as mechanical, motor and electrical engineering or the many branches of the building trades. Special day courses were also in operation for the training of young girls in power machine and machine knitting for prospective employment in factory work. Priding itself as catering solely for all branches of science and technology, the Institute noted that it had recently installed a new mechanical engineering machine shop. A second feature invested in was a new electrical installation work and an elaborate and well planned gymnasium for the physical training of students.

Entrance and scholarship examinations in 1939 were to be held on 6 September in the morning and also in the evening. At the examination for day classes, 20 scholarships were being offered for competition to the specialised day courses in electrical, motor and mechanical engineering or building trades. At the entrance and scholarship examination for evening classes, 90 free student-ships were offered for competition to the junior and specialised courses.

In terms of staff in the Crawford Municipal Technical Institute, some details are revealed in the surviving minute books of the City of Cork VEC committee from the 1930s onwards (held in the Cork City and County Archives in Blackpool). In neat writing, the minutes over the 1930s remark on changing staff, new courses, requests for increased payment and the routine maintenance of the building. There is an absence in the late 1930s and even in the 1940s of a record of the core staff of the Crawford Technical College.  However, a list of a large majority of the staff are listed in the minutes of the City of Cork Vocational Education Committee on 12 November 1931, who together were requesting the Minister for Education for increased salaries in line with the change in Vocational Education system. This practice seemed coherent with other staff across Ireland looking for increased wages for their work. For the purpose that there may be individuals out there that knew some of these members, I publish the names below. If anyone has info on them they can contact me on 0876553389; Augustine Weldon (Assistant Principal), Denis Madden (Head, chemistry department), George Maculwraith (Head, electrical engineering), David Daly (Head, mechanical engineering), John Higgins (lecturer, mechanical engineering), Cornelius O’Riordan (lecturer, motor engines), Nora Dwyer (senior clerk), Henry Nolan (workshop instructor), Thomas O’Sullivan (laboratory assistant and electrician), Kathleen O’Sullivan (laboratory assistant), Henry Dart (caretaker), William O’Neill (caretaker), Cornelius Murphy (caretaker), James French (assistant caretaker), U O’Donoghue (assistant caretaker), Patrick McDonnell (assistant caretaker), Letitia Manning (cleaner), Mary Looney (cleaner), Ellen Falvey (attendant), Catherine O’Regan (attendant) and Margaret O’Sullivan (cleaner).

To be continued…

Caption:

691a. Interior view of 18 Parnell Place, 2005, still today derelict and awaiting incorporation into a new hotel that was partially developed during the recent boom years but remains unfinished due to the economic downturn (picture: Kieran McCarthy)