Category Archives: Landscapes

Elizabeth Fort Heritage

I was delighted to be involved with the push to handover Elizabeth Fort from the OPW to Cork, which happened today.

Info below from my heritage website, www.corkheritage.ie

The star shaped fortification of Elizabeth Fort named after Queen Elizabeth I once protected an English garrison in Cork and became a distinct landmark in the immediate southern suburbs of seventeenth century Cork. Constructed in 1601, the fort protected the walled town of Cork from attack from Gaelic Irish natives and foreigners. It was a series of historic incidents that led to the building of such a structure. Firstly, the defeat of the Gaelic Irish Earl of Desmond in South Munster by English colonialists in 1583 and the subsequent forfeiture of his lands removed a primary keystone of the political system in Munster. Indeed, it is argued that it left Munster wide open to re-colonisation by Irish clans. Consequently, this led to the Queen Elizabeth I’s formulation of the plantation of Munster in 1585. ‘Planting’ Munster with English colonists provided a catalyst in increasing threats to security by Irish natives.

Plan of Elizabeth Fort, c.1603

By the late 1580s, there were calls throughout Munster for reinforcements to protect planters, which resulted in the arrival of several thousand English soldiers to the province itself. The plantation area comprised 600,000 acres, which were divided into plots of between 4,000 and 12,000 acres. In the late 1500s, several thousand English families arrived in Munster especially to avail of higher profits, which the plantations created. These families though were serving a higher landlord class. Among the most eminent landlords securing land in Munster at this time included Burlington, Cuffe, Boyle, Fenton, Perceval, and Orrey.

 

However, the security of the inner landscape was not the only problem, English colonialists had to deal with. A fear of a Spanish invasion gave priority of security to the coastal regions, particularly the southern coast. In the sixteenth century, a new type of improved fortification was developed to deal with changes in conducting warfare. Gunpowder had been in Europe since the fourteenth century but it was only in the mid 1500s that musket guns were developed. No longer was a large castle the safest place to be in warfare. Instead star-shaped fortresses were deemed the best defence. The distinctive star shaped plan was designed to provide flanking fire and to position artillery pieces. ‘Angle bastions’ were constructed at all of the enclosing walls of the fortress at the main corners. This enabled the fort’s garrison to concentrate its firepower on any attacking force in a thirty metre wide area immediately in front of the fort.  This art of fortification was rapidly developed in Italy in the first three decades of the sixteenth century and was based on initial designs by Giuliano Sangallo, an Italian military engineer in 1485.

In January 1590, the order was given by Queen Elizabeth I to construct star-shaped forts outside the town walls of each major Irish coastal walled town, in particular Waterford, Limerick, Galway and Cork.  In Cork, the harbour was deemed important to defend but the construction of any new forts was delayed by the continuous rebellions of native Irish against English conquest and colonisation in Ireland. In 1599, a new Lord President of Ireland, Sir George Carew was appointed to quell the native rebel Irish factions and he was well known for his ability to deal with such situations. After the Spanish attack on Kinsale in 1601, it was decided by Carew that Cork harbour would have to be immediately defended. A new star-shaped fort was constructed on Haubowline Island in the harbour and a new fort was constructed called James Fort (after James I) in Kinsale Harbour. In addition, in 1601, a star shaped fort was constructed at Cork, which was located just outside South Gate Drawbridge on a cliffside that overshadowed and protected the southern road leading into the walled town, now known as Barrack Street. The first fort was called Elizabeth Fort (after Elizabeth I), a name, which has remained to the present day. In 1601, the fort was an irregular work of stone, timber and earth. This fort was garrisoned by October 1602 even though it was unfinished.

Plan of Elizabeth Fort, c.1626

The fort was erected on top of a rock outcrop and early representations of the fort show that it was an irregular fortification in design with stone walls on three sides and an earthen bank facing the walled town. To enter into the interior, one had to cross a drawbridge through a portcullis gate and past a gate-house. Facing the walled town, a natural cliff provided protection whilst the other three sides, a dry moat cut into the rock and was crossed only by a drawbridge at the entrance. The entrance was further protected by a gate tower and portcullis and a gate tower. None of the original fort can be seen today.

In 1603 as a result of Cork’s refusal to honour the crowning of the Catholic King James I, the fort was attacked by an unnamed faction of rebel Irish figure, who considerably damaged the main structure, stole its guns and brought these arms into the town. Nevertheless due to the presence of the Lord Deputy of Cork, Lord Mountjoy and his forces, they seized the city and made the citizens unwillingly rebuild the fort. The new structure received the name “New Fort” and was more improved than the last edifice. The building began circa 1624 and the old drawbridge was substituted with a causeway, a mound of earth and a more elaborate gateway on the eastern side, most of which was replaced. None of the second fort can be seen today.

In 1649, the ramparts or the defensive walls were made higher to what can be seen today; a height of nearly eight metres above the ground level. The extra height was in order to deal with the rebellious factions of Irish. By 1690, about two hundred English soldiers were employed to run the garrison. Twenty-one cannons were located around the top of the fortification, which meant that at least eight men had to man one cannon.  In 1690, there were five distinct out-shots or bastions that could be seen associated with the high limestone walls. Four men had to operate the firing of the cannon while four men had to guard its artillery such as cannon balls.

In the seventeenth century, the English government classified Elizabeth Fort as a defence work of great strength. It was designed for all round defence, while each of the bastions was capable of acting independently as a “last ditch” strongpoint. The bastions on the southern side were considerably stronger and larger than those bastions on the northern side, indicating that the designer was well aware of the vulnerabilities of the fort. A strong effort had also been made to strengthen the entrance side. Here a double wall, double gateway and associated tower, fifteen metres in height could be seen. Today, the double walls and entrance can still be seen with the tower long gone. The foundation of the fortress, which was solid rock also ruled out undermining.

Reconstruction of Elizabeth Fort, c.1690

Reconstruction of Elizabeth Fort, c.1690

 The Siege of Cork in September 1690 tested the strength of the fort immensely. In short, Irish rebels, supporters of James II, possessed Elizabeth Fort and the English had to dominate at least two tall adjacent buildings, Red abbey and St. FinBarre’s Cathedral to rain down shots on the Irish in the area in order to attain a surrender. It is unfortunate that much of the documentation describing the layout and rebuilding of the fort from 1719 to the present day has been lost. All that is known is that the encompassing star-shaped bastion remained unchanged. It is known that in 1719, Elizabeth Fort became a British military barracks and catered for seven hundred men. This caused the ramparts to be thinned, in order to make extra space for a new barracks to be built. In 1806, due to the construction of a new Barrack’s to the north east of the city (now Collin’s Barracks), the barracks within Elizabeth fort altered to that of a Female Convict Prison. Samuel Lewis, an Irish historian in the early half of the 1800s related in1837 that there were 250 inmates, brought from all parts of the country. Many of these were housed here until ships became available to convey them to other British colonial outposts, in particular New South Wales.

Eizabeth Fort and environs, 1759

In the late nineteenth century, Elizabeth Fort was used as a station for the Cork City Artillery Militia. In 1920-21, the fort was occupied by the Royal Irish Constabulary and handed over to the Irish government. A year later in 1922, it is known that the existing interior buildings of the fort were burned down by Anti-Treaty forces during the Irish Civil War. The walls and bastions of the fort were undamaged. A few years later, a Garda Station was set up in the interior of the fort and today is still in operation. Elizabeth Fort remains one of Cork’s most historic gems. Never been excavated, Elizabeth Fort has a wealth of stories waiting to be discovered and to be told.

 

Plan of Elizabeth Fort, 1869

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, ‘West Cork Through Time’, 21 November 2013

718a. West Cork Through Time, title page by Kieran McCarthy and Dan Breen

Article 718- 21 November 2013

Kieran’s New Book – West Cork Through Time

 

One cannot but be drawn in – taken on a journey in West Cork. The use of postcards in my new book, co-written with Dan Breen, Assistant Curator in Cork City Museum, are an attempt to illuminate this region’s past. This book is ambitious in its aims as it takes the reader on a journey into one of the most dramatic landscapes of Ireland. 

West Cork is known for many aspects, its scenery, its serenity, its culture and its people. The book explores 100 postcards of the West Cork region from one hundred years (c.1913) and follows in the footsteps of photographers to retake the same scenes in the present day. The old postcards, sourced from the collections of Cork City Museum, represent many memories and representations of the West Cork region. These postcards were sold to visitors and locals a century ago. In their day, they were never neatly packaged in one publication nor could one ever buy them all in one go in a particular place.

The book takes the reader from Bandon to Castletownbere through the changing and the non-changing face of landscapes and seascapes and provides an insight into the uniquenesses of the region. The necklace of towns and villages are all linked together through a striking section of Ireland’s coastline, over 320 kilometres in length, encompassing a raw coastal wilderness with expansive inlets continuously being eroded away by the Atlantic Ocean. With exquisite coastal scenery, add in undulating inland landscapes criss-crossed by mountains, hill, streams and rivers, imposing old world air villages and the visitor finds a discovery at every bend of the road.

Researching West Cork, the visitor discovers that each parish has its own local historian, historical society, village/ town council, tidy towns group, community group and business community who have inspired the creation of heritage trails and information panels, each asserting why its area has a strong sense of place and identity and why it should be visited. Relics from the past also haunt the landscape with prominent landmarks ranging from Bronze Age standing stones to ivy clad ruined houses and castles, churches and big houses, to cultivated farmlands. All add to the spectacle that is West Cork.

The winding roads bring the visitor on an experience through landscapes, many of which are frozen in time for centuries. There are places that charm, catch and challenge the eye especially in the quest to retake photos on hundred years on. Chapter 1 begins with an exploration of what could be described a gateway country into West Cork; the towns of Bandon and Clonakilty were all founded 400 years ago and are central to a ribbon of market towns and villages in their vicinity such as Dunmanway and Drimoleague. All are set against the backdrop of a raw glaciated mountainous landscape and the Bandon river valley and its tributaries.

Chapter 2 explores the settlements and views along the coast from Courtmacsherry to Mizen Head, which is Ireland’s south-westerly point. Here are multiple beaches, large bays, rocky inlets, islands and many twists in the coastal roads that the visitor endures in the attempt to explore this landscape. Chapter 3 details the regional pilgrimage site of Gougane Barra. According to legend, Cork City’s patron saint, Finbarr, is said to have had a monastery on an island in the middle of the area’s lake at the base of the Shehy Mountains. Many pilgrims have visited this peaceful site over many centuries. Some have left their mark more than others, in terms of raising funding and acquiring human resources to enhance the collective memory of Finbarr through the construction of pilgrimage cells and oratory.

Chapter 4 leads the visitor on a journey from Bantry to Bere Island. The drama of the landscape here is amazing as coastal roads loom out into the coast and loom back in through tunnelled out rock. To experience the western tip of this study area, Bere Island, on any morning is an experience and breath-taking as the sun or rain or just a few clouds can change the character of the location. Chapter 5 explores the Cork-Bandon and South Coast Railway, which cut a route into the heart of West Cork one hundred years ago, and provided a means of goods transportation and a slow method or enjoying the countryside, especially in an age where the car and even good quality roads were rare.

In all, this book, through pictures of the old and new, comprises a myriad of stories of different shapes, patterns and colours just like a painter’s palette of colours.  Every picture presented is charged with that emotional sense of nostalgia – the past shaping and inspiring present thoughts, ideas and actions. However, this book only scratches the surface of what this region has to offer. West Cork in itself is a way of life where generations, individuals and communities, have etched out their lives. It is a place of discovery, of inspiration, a place of peace and contemplation, and a place to find oneself in the world. There is even more to offer the tourist today than there was a hundred years ago. What’s the best way to see West Cork – travel through it, sense it and enjoy it!

West Cork Through Time is available in any good Cork book shop and on Amazon. It is published by Amberley Publishing, UK.

 

Caption:

718a. Front cover of West Cork Through Time by Kieran McCarthy and Dan Breen

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 31 October 2013, Docklands Historical Walking Tour

715a. Docklands, Rebel Cork Week Concert, October 2013

 

Kieran’s Our City Our Town Article,

Cork IndependentThursday 31 October 2013

 

Docklands Walking Tour

 

 

 

On Saturday 9 November, at 2pm I will conduct a historical walking tour of Cork Docklands (free), meet at Kennedy Park, Victoria Road. The tour will take in the city’s docks, Albert Road/ Jewtown/ Hibernian Buildings and speak about the development of Centre Park Road. One aspect of this area are the old Cork Showgrounds, located there since 1892. In 2010, I was involved in penning a book with the Munster Agricultural Society on its heritage, its old name in the nineteenth century being the County of Cork Agricultural Society.

 

From 1857 till 1890 the shows of the County of Agricultural Society were held in the ground of the Corn Market (now the site of Cork City Hall). In the early months of 1890, the informality of attaining the Corn Exchange premises from the trustees turned to formality. There was a concern over finances and responsibility over outstanding costs arose between the County of Cork Agricultural Society and the Corn Market Trustees. That was resolved by the Society’s AGM of 22 March 1890 but uncertainty of using the space remained. Those issues were also coupled with lack of space for development. There was sufficient room for an ordinary Cattle Show but when the Society, following the lead of other cities, increased its operations and adopted the idea of holding horse-jumping contest, the enclosure in the Corn Exchange was too limited.

 

In late February in 1891, double booking occurred at the Corn Exchange on the days of the annual show. As work was already being carried out in terms of advertising and organisation, the committee decided not to move the time but investigate another location. A letter was read from Mr Daly, secretary from the Cork Park Race Committee who stated that their committee would be happy to give the society the use of their premises for which they would charge £25 and that they would even give a donation of £10 toward the show fund. The motion was proposed by Sir George Colthurst and seconded by Captain Newenham. Permission was received from the trustees to open an office at the Corn Exchange to receive entries. A series of temporary buildings were constructed at the Cork Park Racecourse.

 

At a post show discussion on 1 August 1891 at a general meeting led Mr A Ferguson, former chairman proposed that a permanent show yard be erected in a portion of the Cork Race Park with grounds 20 acres in extent. The general committee agreed to appoint a deputation to discuss the matter with the Corporation of Cork. The deputation comprised General Davies, Sir George Colthurst, A Ferguson, D Ahern, L Beamish, Crawford Ledlig, R.L. Longfield, Jason Byrne and A.J. Warren. The Corporation of Cork was approached as the site was on their land.

 

Initially, there was no immediate response from the town clerk by mid-September 1891. By October there was some formal discussion between parties. Mr. Bass, the society’s solicitor was instructed to write to the town clerk and inform him that on no account would the society take a lease unless they were given a free hand to use the ground as they sought fit. By early November 1891, there was still no lease forthcoming from the corporation. By 14 November 1891, Mr Bass recommended that the society should form themselves into a limited liability society in order to raise the money required for the erection of the new buildings. A sub-committee was subsequently formed to investigate the matter and reported back on 28 November 1891. By early December 1891, the society decided that the clause with reference to the loan fund should be altered and that the society should not undertake to pay back any part of the money raised by voluntary contribution.

 

By mid-December 1891, all society members were sent a circular with a copy of the scheme and a request asking for a subscription. A deputation was sent to the Royal Dublin Society asking for a grant towards the new buildings. There was no success there. The secretary was further directed to write to the secretary of the North East Agricultural Society for some information as to the new buildings which they were erecting. Mr S French proposed on 23 January 1892 that a premium of £10 for the best plans for the new show yard be given. The idea was accepted.  The three gentlemen nominated to adjudicate on the plans for the new show yard reported that eight plans were submitted for the competition. They selected two marked respectively – “Native Industry” and “Fiat Pistetia Ruat Coelum”. The second (‘Fiat’) was adopted. The author of the successful design was Mr John Leslie O’Hanlon, Darmouth House, Upper Leeson Street, Dublin. He was subsequently invited down to meet the directors of the new company.

 

On 3 March 1892, the memorandum of agreement between the limited company and the society was adopted and in early 1892, the company obtained a lease from Cork Corporation of 27 acres of reclaimed land and the first stages of the show yard was built. More on the above can be got from my 2010 book on the Cork Showgrounds (available from the Munster Agricultural Society, 021 480 1919).

 

 

Captions:

 

715a. Recent Rebel Cork Week Concert, Cork Docklands, October 2013 (picture: Kieran McCarthy)

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 24 October 2013

714a. October light at St Finbarre’s Cathedral, Cork

 

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article, Cork Independent

Eighteenth Century Cork Walking Tour

Thursday 24 October 2013

 

The weather is still relatively mild, so the next historical walking tour is on Saturday 26 October 2013 –Making a Venice of the North, Exploring Eighteenth Century Cork City, explore a world of canals, and eighteenth century Cork society, meet at Cork City Library, Grand Parade, 2pm (E.5, duration: two hours).

The tour is bound with the demise of the walled town of Cork in the early 1700s. For nearly five hundred years (c.1200-c.1690), the walled port town of Cork, built in a swamp and at the lowest crossing point of the River Lee and the tidal area, remained as one of the most fortified and vibrant walled settlements in the expanding British colonial empire. However, economic growth as well as political events in late seventeenth century Ireland, culminating in the Williamite Siege of Cork in 1690, provided the catalyst for large-scale change within the urban area. The walls were allowed to decay and this was to inadvertently alter much of the city’s physical, social and economic character in the ensuing century.

By the mid-eighteenth century, Cork was a prosperous, wealthy city. In 1732, Edward Lloyd, an English travel writer, wrote that the population of the city was 40,000 and that the shops were ‘neatly fitted and sorted with rich goods’. In addition, there were a lot of new buildings being constructed and many others being reconstructed. Lloyd detailed that the city had a large export trade with almost 59,000 barrels of beef exported from Cork per annum – half the full total for Ireland.

A report by two unnamed touring Englishmen in 1748 noted that the economy of Cork was booming and that provisions of all kinds were available at reasonable prices. These included meat, fish, fowl, fruits such as strawberries, and tubers. The main fish sold in the city market was salmon, turbot and crayfish. The main trading exports comprised beef, hides, butter and tallow (animal fat), which were been sent to all parts of the known world. The gentlemen mention that during the previous slaughtering season, between mid-August and Christmas 1747, a total of 90,000 black cattle were killed. Restrictions on exports such as wool were easily circumvented through illegal black-market trading. Their closing remarks on Cork are very interesting – they noted Cork people had no recognizable accent, which points to a great mix of nationalities residing and trading in the city.

Whereas the merchant classes were enjoying the profits of growing trade links, life for the lower classes was not as easy. In 1730, the population was 56,000; by 1790 the population of the urban area had increased to 73,000. This was a significant increase in a relatively short period of time; 100 years earlier, in 1690, the population had been just 20,000.

This population explosion caused many social problems. Crime was a serious issue for the city. In the early 1740s Mayor Hugh Winter employed fifteen watchmen to walk around the city at night between eleven o’ clock and sunrise to protect the citizens. Eleven o’clock was the city’s curfew, and any person caught outdoors after that time faced prosecution or expulsion. Robbery was common, with money and clothing often reported missing. Items such as silk, lead, swords were targeted by thieves too, and the raiding of cellars for food was also common. There were two gaols in the eighteenth-century city, one overlooking South Gate Bridge and the other overlooking North Gate Bridge. These gaols housed debtors and malefactors.

Another huge problem was the number of destitute children left homeless on the streets. On the western side of the south suburbs was a long row of cabins called the Devil’s Drop. Here, the doors were thronged with children with little or no food. The origin of the name Devil’s Drop is unknown, but probably refers to the degrading conditions in which the inhabitants lived. On 12 March 1747, a poor house was opened on what is now Leitrim Street.

Floods were common in the city and caused great damage. Rare high tides and flooding forced the inhabitants of the city to pass from house to house in boats. This had even happened even in the middle of North and South Main Street. Houses and warehouses on the quays had to be protected from flooding every winter by blocking up doors.

In stark contrast to these descriptions of misery, Smith also detailed the expansion of the city in previous decades. In particular, he highlighted the building of the many quays, the most notable being the Custom House Quay (now Emmett Place), the Coal Quay or Ferry Quay, Kyrl’s quay and the North quay (now Pope’s Quay). The largest canal in the city was that which is now covered by St Patrick’s Street – picture the footpaths on this street as the location of the old quaysides and the road as a canal. The Grand Parade was made up of three quays: Tuckey’s Quay (outside Argos), Post Office Quay (outside the City Library) and the Mall (on the site of the old Capital Cineplex).

 

Caption:

714a. October light at St Finbarre’s Cathedral (picture: Kieran McCarthy)

Eighteenth Century Cork Walking Tour, Saturday 26 October 2013

 

The weather is still relatively mild, so the next historical walking tour is on Saturday 26 October 2013 –Making a Venice of the North, Exploring Eighteenth Century Cork City, explore a world of canals, and eighteenth century Cork society, meet at Cork City Library, Grand Parade, 2pm (E.5, duration: two hours).

The tour is bound with the demise of the walled town of Cork in the early 1700s. For nearly five hundred years (c.1200-c.1690), the walled port town of Cork, built in a swamp and at the lowest crossing point of the River Lee and the tidal area, remained as one of the most fortified and vibrant walled settlements in the expanding British colonial empire. However, economic growth as well as political events in late seventeenth century Ireland, culminating in the Williamite Siege of Cork in 1690, provided the catalyst for large-scale change within the urban area. The walls were allowed to decay and this was to inadvertently alter much of the city’s physical, social and economic character in the ensuing century.

 

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 19 September 2013, Journeys of Faith

709a. Aerial view from church roof of bell tower and Ballinlough Road, 2013

 

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 19 September 2013

New Book – Journeys of Faith

 

Following on from last week’s article, to mark the 75th anniversary of the dedication of Our Lady of Lourdes Church, Ballinlough, my new book, Journey’s of Faith celebrates its story. Ballinlough in the 1930s was a part of Blackrock parish. At the heart of Blackrock is St Michael’s Church. The first building was erected in 1821 and was a chapel of ease to the parochial chapel of St Finbarr, or the South Chapel. St Michael’s Parish was created in 1848. The original parish area comprised almost all of the Mahon Peninsula and included Blackrock, Ballintemple and Ballinlough.

Ballinlough was an area of hard-working people. Circa 55% of the land comprised market gardens. In the 1911 census, it had a population of just over 400 people with 17 families engaged in market gardening. This is a theme which is returned to in more detail in parts of this book through memories of interviewees. In his address to the congregation at the laying of the foundation stone in 1935 of Our Lady of Lourdes Church, Ballinlough, Bishop Cohalan noted that, in his younger days, he remembered the district around Ballinlough Road and Boreenmanna Road as largely devoted to market gardening but it had grown into a popular residential area and the necessity for a church was “heavily” felt.

The 1930s coincided with an increase in veneration and celebration of Our Lady of Lourdes and created a framework of symbols for the new chapel of ease in Ballinlough. Our Lady of Lourdes is a title of the Blessed Virgin Mary cited by the Roman Catholic church in honour of the Marian apparitions which are said to have taken place before various individuals on separate occasions around Lourdes, France. Most prominently among these was the apparition on 11 February 1858, when Bernadette Soubirous, a 14-year-old peasant girl, admitted to her mother that while gathering firewood with her sister and a friend, a “lady” spoke to her in the cave of Massabielle (a mile from the town). Similar appearances of the “lady” were reported on seventeen further occasions that year. In 1862, Pope Pius IX authorized Bishop Bertrand-Sévère Laurence to permit the veneration of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Lourdes. In 1907, Pope Pius X introduced the feast of the apparition of the Immaculate Virgin of Lourdes. The first Official Irish Pilgrimage to Lourdes happened in September 1913. In later years on 6 June 1925, Pius XI actively furthered the venerations in Lourdes by beatifying Bernadette Soubirous.

The year 1933 coincided with the 75th anniversary of the 1858 apparitions and the anniversary celebrations at the shrine were duly reported upon across the world. The celebrations were enhanced at the end of the year on 8 December 1933 on the Feast of the Immaculate Conception when Pope Pius X canonized Bernadette and determined her feast day to be 16 April. This was followed in 1934 by a heavily publicised triduum of masses at Lourdes to celebrate Bernadette’s elevation to sainthood. These were held in conjunction with the extension of the holy year in honour of the 19th centenary of Christ’s crucifixion. This holy space of time was brought to a close at Lourdes on 25-28 April 1935 with more triduums of masses and other religious events. All of these events helped to boost pilgrimage traffic to Lourdes which by 1935 had reached 1.1 million per annum.

In Ireland, the response to the canonisation of Bernadette was enormous. For a considerable time in the mid 1930s, every weekly issue of The Irish Catholic newspaper contained a substantial article on the shrine, under the title “Notes from Lourdes”, in which pilgrimages were discussed. Through this source, one can read about the revamp of Ireland’s ‘Lourdes’ at Knock and about the numerous annual pilgrimages organised by a variety of Catholic bodies to Lourdes, France. By the mid 1930s, there were at least half a dozen big pilgrimages each having from 400 to 1,200 pilgrims and thousands of associate members furnishing support at home. Pilgrimage promoters and organisers also utilised lectures, slides, and film to attract recruits and spread interest. The film entitled Lourdes and St Bernadette, praised for its fine camera work, good acting and effective musical accompaniment, was originally sponsored by Irish missionaries. The Holy Ghost Fathers, whose principal work lay in Africa, arranged for its screening in Cork and other southern counties during the summer of 1935. Franz Werfel’s novel, The Song of Bernadette, also had great impact as well the subsequent film based on it. The novel was the number one best seller in Ireland from 1942 to 1946. Naming churches after Our Lady of Lourdes also became a common practice from 1930s onwards through to the Marian year of 1954 and into the 1960s. In Blackrock, Cork, Canon William Murphy was one of many priests who sought to remember the significance of the canonisation of Bernadette and hence named the new Ballinlough church after Our Lady of Lourdes. It became the first church to adopt the name in the south of Ireland.

Kieran’s new book, Journeys of Faith, Our Lady of Lourdes Church, Ballinlough, Celebrating 75 Years is available (E.15) from the church and its parish office.

More next week…

 

Caption:

709a. Aerial view of bell tower and Ballinlough Road from church roof of Our Lady of Lourdes Church, Ballinlough, 2013 (picture: Kieran McCarthy)

 

At the recent book launch of Journeys of Faith, Cllr Kieran McCarthy, Fr David Maher, Canon Jim O'Donovan & Vincent Twohig, 13 September 2013

Blackrock Historical Walking Tour, Friday 20 September 2013, For Cork Culture Night

 

As part of Cork Culture Night and the open evening fete on Blackrock Pier Cllr Kieran McCarthy will conduct a historical walking tour of Blackrock Village on Friday 20 September 2013, 5pm, leaving from the grotto (approx 90 mins, free event). The earliest and official evidence for settlement in Blackrock dates to c.1564 when the Galway family created what was to become known as Dundanion Castle. Over 20 years later, Blackrock Castle was built circa 1582 by the citizens of Cork with artillery to resist pirates and other invaders. The building of the Navigation Wall or Dock in the 1760s turned focus to reclamation projects in the area and the eventual creation of public amenity land such as the Marina Walk during the time of the Great Famine. The early 1800s coincided with an enormous investment into creating new late Georgian mansions by many other key Cork families, such as the Chattertons, the Frends, the McMullers, Deanes and the Nash families, amongst others. Soon Blackrock was to have its own bathing houses, schools, hurling club, suburban railway line, and Protestant and Catholic Church. The pier that was developed at the heart of the space led to a number of other developments such as fisherman cottages and a fishing industry. This community is reflected in the 1911 census with 64 fisherman listed in Blackrock.

 

Cllr Kieran McCarthy notes: “A stroll in Blackrock is popular by many people, local and Cork people. The area is particularly characterised by beautiful architecture, historic landscapes and imposing late Georgian and early twentieth century country cottages; every structure points to a key era in Cork’s development. Blackrock is also lucky that many of its former residents have left archives, census records, diaries, old maps and insights into how the area developed, giving an insight into ways of life, ideas and ambitions in the past, some of which can help us in the present day in understanding Blackrock’s identity going forward.”

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article, 12 September 2013

708a. Our Lady of Lourdes Church, Ballinlough

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article, 

Cork Independent, 12 September 2013

New Book – Journeys of Faith

 

Following on from last week’s article, to mark the 75th anniversary of the dedication of Our Lady of Lourdes Church, Ballinlough, my new book, Journeys of Faith celebrates its story. I’d like to share some of the earlier thoughts of the book especially the early origins of the church and its origins. Personally I find the story of the early Irish Free State fascinating especially in terms of its ambition and determinism to achieve goals.

The prominence of the Roman Catholic Church in Irish society and Cork society was significant in the Irish Free State. Daniel Cohalan (1858–1952) served as Bishop of Cork from 1916 to 24 August 1952 and he defined the sense of religion in the city during his time.  For many of the early years Cohalan found himself commenting on the nationalist independence struggles of the day. He attempted to take the middle ground in a struggle that was rapidly deteriorating into chaos and atrocity. His anti-violence attitude was the guiding principle in his episcopacy. He had a crucial role in condemning the 1916 rising and pressed that the Volunteers including Cork leaders Tomás MacCurtain and Terence McSwiney stand down in the face of superior Crown forces. Cohalan was eager to avoid bloodshed and having the city plunged into chaos. In 1918 Bishop Cohalan campaigned against conscription into the British army. Whilst attending a public meeting in Cork, he made it clear that conscripting Irishmen to fight Britain’s wars was unacceptable.

The 1920 burning of Cork City by the Black and Tans (following the Dillon’s Cross and other local and regional ambushes) resulted in a city and region dominated by the gun and violence. It prompted Bishop Cohalan to issue a decree of excommunication against those who perpetrated violence in any form. It was issued in SS Mary’s and Anne’s North Cathedral on 12 December 1920. This did not calm the situation. The IRA was unhappy with the decision and the position of the local Catholic Church especially as a number of the clergy were active in the IRA. Cohalan remained steadfast on the controversy isolating himself from republican parishioners and clergy, even to the point of refusing a Catholic burial to any hunger striker after 1922. To underline his support for law and order, Cohalan welcomed the 1922 Treaty, which established the Free State, agreeing that it was not perfect but was a great “measure of freedom”. This support was preached publicly in the North Cathedral on 10 December 1922.

In 1937 Cohalan turned his attention to the role of the Protestant churches in Ireland. He encouraged the Protestant community of Cork to unite with its Catholic brethren to achieve Christian unity. He even went so far as to suggest to the Protestant Bishop of Cork that they merge the dioceses between them with St Finbarr’s Cathedral presiding over southside districts and the North Cathedral presiding over northside districts. All the Protestant Bishop had to do was to convert to Catholicism!

By the mid 1920′s the South Parish had grown in both population and area to a point where it could no longer function with a single church. In an effort to address the situation, Bishop Cohalan designated Turners Cross as the location for a second parish church to serve the ever-growing congregation. Commissioned in 1927, the church’s modern concrete architectural look initiated an enormous debate amongst those involved in the brick masons’ trade, which saw the use of concrete as cutting jobs for masons in the region. The architect was Chicago-born Barry Byrne (1883-1967) who was a former student of Frank Lloyd Wright. By the late 1920s Byrne had, designed three Catholic Churches in the US to acclaim and criticism. The model for Turners Cross was based on the Church of Christ the King, Tulsa, Oklahoma (1926).

Work on the Turners Cross site began in March 1929. Its heavy foundations went down 15 feet into a marshy stream-like area. A total of 1,200 tons of Condor brand of Portland cement were used in its construction. Its marble terrazzo floor is overlooked by the largest suspended ceiling in a European church and it also possesses the impressive John Storr-designed Christ the King sculpture at its entrance. The church was officially dedicated on 25 October 1931 and set a marker for the future development of large churches in Cork’s suburbs. The notable exception was Our Lady of Lourdes Church in Ballinlough, planning for which started possibly 2-3 years after Christ the King. As Ballinlough church was a chapel of ease to St Michael’s Blackrock, there was a return to a traditional-looking structure.

More next week…

I will be giving a reflection on the 75th anniversary on Friday 13 September at 7.30pm in Our Lady of Lourdes Church during the celebration mass and mission. The book launch is after this event on the same evening at 8.30pm in St Anthony’s Boys National School. All welcome. The book can be purchased for E.15 from Ballinlough parish office and church sacristy from 13 September onwards.

 

Caption:

708a. Our Lady of Lourdes Church, Ballinlough (picture: Kieran McCarthy)

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 5 September 2013, Kieran’s New Book, Journeys of Faith

707a. Front cover of Journeys of Faith, edited by Kieran McCarthy

Article 707- 5 September 2013

Journeys of Faith, Our Lady of Lourdes Church, Ballinlough, Celebrating 75 Years

 

In the past eight months I have been fortunate to interview many people in Ballinlough, my own homeplace, to produce a book to mark the 75th anniversary of the dedication of Our Lady of Lourdes Church. Located on a prominent limestone ridge, the church is a familiar, impressive and welcoming landmark in Ballinlough, a south east suburb of Cork City. The building represents one of the multiple threads of community life of the area. Indeed, it can be said that many of the original ideas for the present community infrastructure in Ballinlough, ranging from actual buildings to various sporting and social clubs had their roots amongst the people and priests who created, and in time, added to the meaning of building in the lives of the community.

At the dedication ceremony on Sunday 11 September 1938, the orator of the sermon, Fr Kieran, OFM, Cap spoke at length about the building belonging to the people and the people belonging to the church; “we are gathered and united in one living holy faith this morning in this beautiful little church, planned by Christ-like minds and built by human hands and generous hearts”. Those ideas of hope, self determination, generosity, faith, dedication, and adoration are all starting points to begin a reflection on the past 75 years.

In Our Lady of Lourdes Church, there is a faith in the sacredness of this edifice that has never been relinquished since 1938. It is a thriving and resilient place, a place of aspiration. Here is a faith founded on familiar cultural and personal Christian principles to which those in the present day are heirs; we also carry forward some of that faith and all the ideas that go with it; we continue to build and trust in our faith. The text on the 1935 foundation stone at the side of the building reminds one of this spirit of co-operation in faith and that together the clerical and lay community have brought forward the multiple meanings and memories within the building as a socially inclusive community.

The church is a celebration of re-invention and re-imagination of the faith and initiative in Free State Ireland. A sense of initiative remains constant in the character of the Ballinlough community today. The Bishop of Cork in 1938, Dr Daniel Cohalan, had an interest in harnessing new possibilities, ideas, and new skills, to reach higher and to combine them with ideas of faith. There is a power in faith, in journeying with it. It is our lasting birthright but, it is also about what we do with it. Faith does not have a financial value but, without it, people’s moral compass, personal development and journey in life would certainly be anchored in a different direction.

As its core aims, this book excavates below Ballinlough’s official histories. Its key milestones are presented but the book aims to provide insights and foster debate into the woven relationships between the church, community life, and society. What is presented is a cross-section of Ballinlough residents and those connected to the parish throughout the years. Using the themes of the spirit of co-operation and community building put forward during Fr Kieran’s sermon at the 1938 dedication ceremony, the book aspires to recover and provide a cross-section of voices and personal memories of the most memorable aspects of Ballinlough. It also tries to create a framework of the development of motivations and visions for community life. The book is divided into four parts – firstly it presents the historical framework for the construction of Ballinlough church and the nature of Cork society in the 1920s and 1930s. Secondly memories covering Ballinlough’s market garden heritage and the emergence of the area’s development in the 1930s and 1940s; secondly the book focuses on the construction of the community infrastructure in the period c.1950-c.1980; fourthly the book explores more recent memories and concludes with the perspectives of a cross-section of individuals in the Ballinlough Parish Assembly.

Over 100 people speak at length in this book about their faith, their personal connection to Ballinlough, and its sense of place and how they link to it. They speak about the layered aspects of life such as change, love, hope, uncertainty, fragility, tragedy, integrity, traditions, renewal and imagination and their role in the formation of human values. Interviewees commented on the role of the church in the past and seek to be involved in its future. All merge together to reflect on the mark made on history by Our Lady of Lourdes Church and the wider community, but also their role in the future of Ballinlough and in the wider city and region.

I will be giving a reflection on the 75th anniversary on Friday 13 September at 7.30pm in the church during the celebration mass and mission. The book launch is after this event on the same evening at 8.30pm in St Anthony’s Boys National School. All welcome. The book can be purchased for E.15 from Ballinlough parish office and sacristy from 13 September onwards.

 

Caption:

707a. Front cover of Journeys of Faith, Our Lady of Lourdes Church, Ballinlough, Celebrating 75 Years by Kieran McCarthy; cover designed by Alexandria O’Donnell, Our Lady of Lourdes School, Ballinlough.