Category Archives: Uncategorized

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 15 August 2024

1266a. View of new exhibition called “Cork Voices of the Irish Revolution” at St Peter’s Church, North Main Street (picture: Kieran McCarthy).
1266a. View of new exhibition called “Cork Voices of the Irish Revolution” at St Peter’s Church, North Main Street (picture: Kieran McCarthy).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 15 August 2024

Cork Heritage Open Day, 17 August 2024

Another Cork heritage open day is looming. The 2024 event will take place on Saturday 17 August. For one day only, over 40 buildings open their doors free of charge for this special event.  Members of the public are allowed a glimpse of some of Cork’s most fascinating buildings ranging from the medieval to the military, the civic to the commercial and the educational to the ecclesiastical. This event was greeted with great enthusiasm by building owners and members of the public alike in 2023 with an estimated 20,000 people participating on the day.

   It is always a great opportunity to explore behind some of Cork’s grandest buildings. With the past of a port city, Cork architecture has a personality that varied and much is hidden amongst the city’s narrow streets and laneways. It is a photogenic city, which lights up with sunshine as it hits the limestone buildings. Much of its architecture is also inspired by international styles – the British style of artwork and nineteenth century brick pervading in most cases– but it’s always pays to look up in Cork and marvel at the Amsterdamesque-style of our eighteenth century structures on streets such as Oliver Plunkett Street or at the gorgeous tall spires of the city’s nineteenth-century churches.

    Cork Heritage Open Day is nineteen years in the making and with 40 buildings it is almost impossible to visit them all in one day. It takes a few goes to get to them all and spend time appreciating their physical presence in our city but also the often hidden context of why such buildings and their communities came together and their contribution to the modern day picture of the city.

The team behind the Open Day, Cork City Council, do group the buildings into general themes, Steps and Steeples, Customs and Commerce, Medieval to Modern, Saints and Scholars and Life and Learning – one can walk the five trails to discover a number of buildings within these general themes. These themes remind the participant to remember how our city spreads from the marsh to the undulating hills surrounding it, how layered and storied the city’s past is, how the city has been blessed to have many scholars contributing to its development in a variety of ways and how the way of life in Cork is intertwined with a strong sense of place and ambition. For a small city, it packs a punch in its approaches to national and international interests.

One of the buildings, which is always open to celebrate all aspects historic in the city is the historic St Peter’s Church – now an exhibition centre – on North Main Street. The building is the second church to be built on its present site overlooking North Main Street. The first church was built sometime in the early fourteenth century. In 1782, the church was taken down and in 1783, the present limestone walled church, was begun to be built. At a later stage, a new tower and spire were added to the basic rectangular plan. The new spire though had to be taken down due to the marshy ground that it was built on.

In recent years and in accordance to the aims of the pilot project of the Cork Historic Centre Action and the finance of Cork City Council and operational support of Cork Civic Trust, St Peter’s Church has been extensively renovated and opened as an arts exhibition centre.

One of the most interesting monuments on display in the church is the Deane monument. This monument, dating to 1710, was dedicated to the memory of Sir Matthew Deane and his wife and both are depicted on the monument, shown in solemn prayer on both sides of an altar tomb.

Now a deconsecrated space, a historic graveyard was attached to the medieval parish church of St Peter. The graveyard is in use as a public amenity space. In 1750, Charles Smith in his History of Cork in 1750 recorded that some of the gravestones had ‘dates as old as the year 1500”.

Antiquarian John Windele records the discovery in 1838, of numerous tombstones belonging to the “olden era of this Church, forming the foundations of the building which preceded its present steeple shows to what uses the ancient remains connected with this building have been converted”.

Certainly, the site has undergone modification and possibly significant disturbance to underlying deposits. Burials within the church would have been substantially dislocated during the demolition works of 1782 and the construction of the present church.

During renovations to the church building during the 1990’s skeletal remains were uncovered beneath the floor. Since 1975, Cork City Council has maintained the graveyard when it was then laid out as a park. There are thirteen headstones lining the northern boundary wall towards the back of the church. The headstones that are legible date to the eighteenth century. They are not in their original spot. The chest tomb of William Rogers (1686), also which remains in its original position in the graveyard.

A new exhibit at St Peter’s Church will underpin the facts and footnotes through the human accounts and experiences of Cork from 1912-1923 The exhibit is entitled “Cork Voices of the Irish Revolution” and is written and curated by long-time collaborator and historian Gerry White in conjunction with Cork Public Museum and UCC.

Cork Voices is the natural culmination point of the various exhibits and installations from the Decade of Commemorations in St Peters; following key events from brewing tensions with the Home Rule movement and the formation of the Irish Volunteers to the death of Corks own, Michael Collins and the cessation of the Irish Civil War. The installation details the events as seen by the eyes of the people who lived it, illustrated by their words, and made real by the emotions captured in their testimony.

Caption:

1266a. View of new exhibition called “Cork Voices of the Irish Revolution” at St Peter’s Church, North Main Street (picture: Kieran McCarthy).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 8 August 2024

1265a. Historical walking tour of St Finbarr's Hospital earlier this year with Cllr Kieran McCarthy (picture: Marcelline Bonneau).
1265a. Historical walking tour of St Finbarr’s Hospital earlier this year with Cllr Kieran McCarthy (picture: Marcelline Bonneau).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 8 August 2024

Kieran’s National Heritage Week Tours, 17-25 August 2024

Another summer month to come and more opportunities to take a historical walking tour. The tours I have chosen for National Heritage Week this year are all important areas in the city’s development plus they all have a unique sense of place and identity. I will host eight tours, and all are free. There is no booking required bar the one for Cork City Hall for Cork Heritage Open Day.

Saturday 17 August 2024, A Tour of Cork City Hall as part of Cork Heritage Open Day, 10am, meet at entrance at Anglesea Street (90 minutes, booking required at Cork Heritage Open Day website with Cork City Council).

Learn about the early history of Cork City Hall and Cork City Council; learn about the development of the building and visit the Lord Mayor’s Room. The current structure replaced the old City Hall, which was destroyed in the Burning of Cork in 1920. It was designed by Architects Jones and Kelly and built by the Cork Company Sisks. The foundation stone was laid by Eamon de Valera, President of the Executive Council of the Irish Free State, on 9 July 1932.

Sunday 18 August 2024, Cork Through the Ages, An Introduction to the Historical Development of Cork City; meet at the National Monument, Grand Parade, 6.30pm.

Cork City city possesses a unique character derived from a combination of its plan, topography, built fabric and its location on the lowest crossing point of the River Lee as it meets the tidal estuary and the second largest natural harbour in the world. This tour explores the city’s earliest historical phases.

Monday 19 August 2024, Shandon Historical Walking Tour; explore Cork’s most historic quarter; meet at North Main Street/ Adelaide Street Square, opp Cork Volunteer Centre, 6.30pm.  

 Tradition is one way to sum up the uniqueness of Shandon Street. Despite being a physical street, one can stroll down (or clamber up), the thoroughfare holds a special place in the hearts of many Corkonians.  The legacy of by-gone days is rich. The street was established by the Anglo-Normans as a thoroughfare to give access to North Gate Drawbridge and was originally known as Mallow Lane. Different architectural styles reflect not only the street’s long history but also Cork’s past.

Tuesday 20 August 2024, The Northern Ridge – St Patrick’s Hill to MacCurtain StreetHistorical walking tour of the area around St Patrick’s Hill – Old Youghal Road to McCurtain Street; meet on the Green at Audley Place, top of St Patrick’s Hill, 6.30pm.

 This is a tour that brings the participant from the top of St Patrick’s Hill to the eastern end of McCurtain Street through Wellington Road. The tour will speak about the development of the Collins Barracks ridge and its hidden and interesting architectural heritage.

Thursday 22 August 2024, The Lough and its Curiosities; historical walking tour; meet at green area at northern green of The Lough, entrance of Lough Road to The Lough, Lough Church end; 6.30pm.

This walking tour explores the Lough, its heritage and the rich surrounding history of this neighbourhood of the city. This amenity has witnessed eighteenth century market fairs as well as ice skating to nineteenth century writers and nursery gardens to twentieth century cycling tournaments and the rich and historic market garden culture.

Friday 23 August 2024, Douglas and its History, historical walking tour in association with Douglas Tidy Towns; Discover the history of industry and the development of this historic village, meet in the carpark of Douglas Community Centre, 6.30pm. 

The story of Douglas and its environs is in essence a story of experimentation, of industry and of people and social improvement. The story of one of Ireland largest sailcloth factories is a worthwhile topic to explore in terms of its aspiration in its day in the eighteenth century. That coupled with the creation of forty or so seats or mansions and demesnes made it a place where the city’s merchants made their home in. Douglas makes also makes for an interesting place to study as many historical legacies linger in village’s surrounding landscapes.

Saturday 24 August 2024, The City Workhouse, historical walking tour; learn about Cork City’s workhouse created for 2,000 impoverished people in 1841; meet just inside the gates of St Finbarr’s Hospital, Douglas Road, 1.30pm.

The Cork workhouse, which opened in December 1841, was an isolated place – built beyond the toll house and toll gates, which gave entry to the city and which stood just below the end of the wall of St. Finbarr’s Hospital in the vicinity of the junction of the Douglas and Ballinlough Roads. The Douglas Road workhouse was also one of the first of over 130 workhouses to be designed by the Poor Law Commissioners’ architect George Wilkinson. 

Sunday 25 August 2024, Sunday’s Well historical walking tour with Cllr Kieran McCarthy; discover the original well and the eighteenth century origins of the suburb, meet at St Vincent’s Bridge, North Mall end, 1.30pm.

 Sunday’s Well was a famous landmark through the ages and the adjoining district took its name from the well. In 1644, the French traveller M de La Boullaye Le Gouz, visited Ireland. In the account of his journey he writes: “A mile from Korq [Cork] is a well called by the English, Sunday Spring, or the fountain of Sunday, which the Irish believe is blessed and cures many ills”. Walk from Wise’s Hill to the heart of Sunday’s Well and learn about the development of an eighteenth century suburb.

Caption:

1265a. Historical walking tour of St Finbarr’s Hospital earlier this year with Cllr Kieran McCarthy (picture: Marcelline Bonneau).

Kieran’s National Heritage Week 2024

Saturday 17 August 2024, A Tour of Cork City Hall as part of Cork Heritage Open Day, with Cllr Kieran McCarthy, 10am, meet at entrance at Anglesea Street (90 minutes, booking required at Cork Heritage Open Day website with Cork City Council).

Sunday 18 August 2024, Cork Through the Ages, An Introduction to the Historical Development of Cork City with Cllr Kieran McCarthy; meet at the National Monument, Grand Parade, 6.30pm (free, 2 hours, no booking required). 

Monday 19 August 2024, Shandon Historical Walking Tour with Cllr Kieran McCarthy; explore Cork’s most historic quarter; meet at North Main Street/ Adelaide Street Square, opp Cork Volunteer Centre, 6.30pm (free, 2 hours, no booking required).  

Tuesday 20 August 2024, The Northern Ridge – St Patrick’s Hill to MacCurtain Street; Historical walking tour with Cllr Kieran McCarthy of the area around St Patrick’s Hill – Old Youghal Road to McCurtain Street; meet on the Green at Audley Place, top of St Patrick’s Hill, 6.30pm (free, 2 hours, no booking required). 

Thursday 22 August 2024, The Lough and its Curiosities; historical walking tour with Cllr Kieran McCarthy; meet at green area at northern green of The Lough, entrance of Lough Road to The Lough, Lough Church end; 6.30pm (free, 2 hours, no booking required)

Friday 23 August 2024, Douglas and its History, historical walking tour with Cllr Kieran McCarthy in association with Douglas Tidy Towns; Discover the history of industry and the development of this historic village, meet in the carpark of Douglas Community Centre, 6.30pm (free, 2 hours, no booking required, circuit of village, finishes nearby). 

Saturday 24 August 2024, The City Workhouse, historical walking tour with Cllr Kieran McCarthy; learn about Cork City’s workhouse created for 2,000 impoverished people in 1841; meet just inside the gates of St Finbarr’s Hospital, Douglas Road, 1.30pm (free, 2 hours, on site tour, no booking required).

Sunday 25 August 2024, Sunday’s Well historical walking tour with Cllr Kieran McCarthy; discover the original well and the eighteenth century origins of the suburb, meet at St Vincent’s Bridge, North Mall end, 1.30pm (free, 2 hours, no booking required).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 1 August 2024

1264a. Entrance to From Source to Sea, Crawford Art Gallery (picture: Kiran McCarthy).
1264a. Entrance to From Source to Sea, Crawford Art Gallery (picture: Kiran McCarthy).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 1 August 2024

From Source to Sea at the Crawford Art Gallery

One of the last exhibitions before the revamp of the Crawford Art Gallery celebrates the River Lee. The exhibition is entitled From Source to Sea and is on from 22 June to 22 September in the Gibson Galleries at Crawford Art Gallery.  

The exhibition following the course of the River Lee, from its origins in the Shehy Mountains and Gougane Barra in the west to its meeting with the Celtic Sea at the mouth of Cork Harbour in the east, has opened at Crawford Art Gallery. Spanning historic and contemporary artworks from the collection, From Source to Sea celebrates the culture of Cork’s mighty Lee and its tributaries. 

Artworks from the 1750s through to the present day are featured in the exhibition. Each painting, drawing, print, and sculpture offers a perspective on the river, the stories it has carried and collected, the places and people it has shaped, and the changes it has inevitably borne. 

The exhibition features much-loved paintings, ranging from John Butts’ View of Cork from Audley Place (c.1750) and Whipping the Herring out of Town (c.1800) by Nathaniel Grogan, to George Mounsey Wheatley Atkinson’s Paddle Steamer Entering the Port of Cork (1842) and Skellig Night on South Mall (1845) by James Beale. These are joined by the work of artists Sarah Grace Carr, Kate Dobbin, John Fitzgerald, Robert Gibbings, Patrick Hennessy, Seán Keating, Diarmuid Ó Ceallacháin, and George Petrie. 

Recent acquisitions by Ita Freeney, Bernadette Kiely, and Donald Teskey offer new contexts, while portraits by Séamus Murphy, Nano Reid, and Eileen Healy recall rich tales from the Lee Valley, including The Tailor and Ansty and the inimitable voice of Cónal Creedon.  

In an overall sense, the exhibition encourages the viewer to reflect on the histories and perspectives of the River Lee Valley and to travel back from the city to the source in the Shehy Mountains. Michael Waldron, curator of the exhibition, says: ‘Following our popular exhibitions focusing on Cork city and harbour, it’s been such a pleasure to take a journey along the River Lee itself. I hope visitors will take as much enjoyment in following its course, connecting with the river’s rich history and culture, and maybe even get inspired to take their own stroll at Gougane Barra, Lee Fields, or the Marina”.

It has been over a decade since this column chronicled histories from the Lee Valley and recorded many oral histories from life within it. Some of these stories I have placed up on my website www.corkheritage.ie. At the time, I wrote that the origin of the name Lee is sketchy and legend reputedly attributes the name to an ethnic group known as the Milesians from Spain who reputedly arrived in Ireland several thousand years before the time of St. FinBarre. Legend has it that the Milesians acquired land in Southern Munster, which they named ‘Corca Luighe’ or ‘Cork of the Lee’ from Luighe, the son of Ith who attained the land after the Milesian advent to Ireland.

In addition, the River Lee – An Laoi over the centuries has had many variations in its spelling. In early Christian texts such as the Book of Lismore, it is described as Luae. It has also been written as Lua, Lai, Laoi and the Latin Luvius. An entry in the Annals of the Four Masters in the year 1163 A.D. names the River Sabhrann. However, many scholars agree on the name Lee as the most common name of the River.

The columns from over a decade ago also reflected upon the rich heritage of Gougane Barra. Most notably and grabbing the visitor’s eye at the start of the Crawford Art Gallery exhibition is a hand coloured and beautiful acquatint by Newton Fielding entitled “Gougane Barra Lake with the Hermitage of St Finbarr, County Cork”. It is a copy of George Petrie’s work.

George Petrie (1790-1866) was an important Irish landscape painter of his day. He explored people’s memories along with native Irish cultural traditions as he found them in the historic fabric of old monuments and buildings in the four corners of Ireland. He devoted himself to landscape painting in watercolours.

In 1819 Petrie supplied ninety-six illustrations for Cromwell’s Excur­sions Through Ireland. He subsequently furnished drawings for several publications, such as the Rev G N Wright’s Guide to Killarney, Guide to Wicklow and Historical Guide to Ancient and Modern Dublin, 1821, as well as Brewer’s Beauties of Ireland, 1825. Petrie’s appreciation of landscape was deeply indebted to William Wordsworth. He also had a constant awareness of the continuity between living folk art and antiquity. Petrie’s work explored the Irish landscape as a cultural echo informed by the lingering memories of native cultural traditions and antiquities.

Petrie’s work as a field officer with the Ordnance Survey of Ireland in the early nineteenth century was, according to art historian Peter Murray, an enormous salvage operation to collect and preserve the remains of Ireland’s native culture and identity. George Petrie’s Gougane Barra(one of two versions) attempts to put the viewer in the heart of the Shehy Mountains. Pilgrims/tourists seem dwarfed by awe-inspiring landscapes and give an increased interest and picturesque aspect to the scene.

Explore and rediscover the Lee Valley with From Source to Sea, whichis on from 22 June to 22 September in the Gibson Galleries at Crawford Art Gallery.  

Captions:

1264a. Entrance to From Source to Sea, Crawford Art Gallery (picture: Kiran McCarthy).

1264b. Hand coloured and beautiful acquatint by Newton Fielding entitled “Gougane Barra Lake with the Hermitage of St Finbarr, County Cork”. It is a copy of George Petrie’s work.

1264b. Hand coloured and beautiful acquatint by Newton Fielding entitled “Gougane Barra Lake with the Hermitage of St Finbarr, County Cork”. It is a copy of George Petrie’s work.
1264b. Hand coloured and beautiful acquatint by Newton Fielding entitled “Gougane Barra Lake with the Hermitage of St Finbarr, County Cork”. It is a copy of George Petrie’s work.

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 25 July 2024

1263a. Front cover of Gerard O’Rourke’s Land War to Civil War 1900-1924, Donoughmore to Cork and Beyond.
1263a. Front cover of Gerard O’Rourke’s Land War to Civil War 1900-1924, Donoughmore to Cork and Beyond.

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 25 July 2024

Donoughmore in the Spotlight

Recently Gerard O’Rourke’s new book Land War to Civil War 1900-1924, Doqnoughmore to Cork and Beyond hit the shelves of Cork book shops. It is a story of conflict and perseverance leading to Irish Independence. It explores, examines, and explains how this was achieved. The book recounts numerous incidents and experiences begins in Donoughmore stopping at various locations through to Cork City and internationally through the stories of the executions of Mrs Lindsay and Compton Smith, Mary Healy and Éamon de Valera, the Wallace Sisters, Dripsey Ambush, Civil War, executions, prison, life, sport, culture, economic life, and daily life. 

In his introduction Gerard notes that the aim of the book is to chronicle and document the rise of nationalism and subsequent road to Irish Freedom using Donoughmore, an area 26 km north, north-west of Cork, as a source for investigation. It builds upon stories in Gerard’s second book Ancient Sweet Donoughmore: Life in an Irish Rural Parish (2015). These publications together with an earlier work A History of Donoughmore Hurling and Football Club (1985) completes a significant trilogy of the story of this ancient parish.

Gerard in his introduction further writes about the importance of researching the quest for Irish Independence; “There was a time when talk about what was termed the troubled times was not engaged in, was frowned upon, and brought up too many bitter memories. The advancement of time has changed this and by documenting the narrative of this period we are paying homage to our own. Their sacrifices and work are rightfully highlighted and gives us an insight and appreciation to what was ‘the hidden Ireland?. It more importantly brings context to what we all enjoy today, freedom, independence, self-governance, the scope to make decisions, pursue opportunities all manageable without external intrusion”.

For Cork City Gerard has a really great reflection chapter on the lives and times of Nora and Sheila Wallace, whose story on St Augustine’s Street and their part in the Irish War of Independence in Cork City has come more to the fore in recent years. Gerard draws on family archives including notes and correspondence from the Wallace Sisters. He writes that the Sisters were greatly influenced by tales of Fenians and revolution and a thirst for Independence. They were inspired by the foresight and writings of Pádraig Pearse and James Connolly. The sisters were further enthralled by the focussed and nationalist outlook of Countess Markievicz.

 Indeed, Gerard outlines in his research that Nora paid a moving tribute to the countess on her death; “Her proud spirt had learned much or Kathleen Ní Houlihan, and the many ills that needed remedies. One noble heart, one gifted woman, laid aside all loves, and joys to serve her country. Her ideals demonstrated a desire to help the weak, and a firm belief that all difficulties could be overcome by hard work”.

When Countess Markievicz, was court martialled after the Easter Rising her action in kissing her revolver was dramatic as well as poignant. Nora commented on the fight to win; “We who know her, can appreciate fully, what that action implied; the love of a generous heart, and the belief that we should fight to win, coupled with the perfect discipline of a soldier”.

It was in 1911 that a branch of the Fianna organisation was established in Cork. Among those at the inaugural meeting was Tomás MacCurtain and Seán O Hearty. Later, Cumann na mBan was formed in Cork in 1914 and among the women who operated this organisation were Mary MacSwiney, Nora O’Brien, Bridie Conway, Annie and Peg Duggan and Nora and Sheila Wallace.

Gerard further outlines that Nora Wallace’s work with the Volunteers where she made first aid outfits and haversacks brought her increasingly into contact with Tomás MacCurtain and he trusted her with specific intelligence work. After the Easter Rising, she was given special instructions by Tomás to visit Michael Brennan Officer in Command of the East Clare Volunteers at Cork Prison.

In June 1917, the closure of the Volunteer Hall in Sheares Street created a problem for the IRA in Cork. Without a base or recognised meeting place the mechanisms were problematic to direct a war against the Crown Forces. Florence O’Donoghue, Adjutant of the Cork No. 1 Brigade and responsible for communicating with the Brigades units and further afield, saw the potential in using the shop of the Wallace Sisters as a depot for dispatches and a communications centre;

“A depot for dispatches was essential. We found it in the newsagents shop of the sisters Shelia and Nora Wallace…I had been getting my papers there and had known them for some time. They lived over the shop, they worked from eight in the morning until midnight…if any two women deserved immortality for their work…they did. Wallace’s became to all intents and purposes Brigade Headquarters…an indispensable part of the organisation. Shelia and Nora came to know everybody and everyone’s status; they became experts at side tracking persons with no serious business… nothing I could say about their tact and discretion would express adequately my appreciation of the manner at which they did a most difficult and valuable job”.

Gerard details through his research that it took until May 1921 for the British authorities finally tried to curb the actions of the Wallace Sisters and in a letter to the sisters an instruction was given to them to close the shop. Resilient as ever the sisters attained a temporary shop lease in the English Market and continued their work. Less than two months later following the Truce the shop was reopened.

Nora and Sheila Wallace took the Anti-Treaty side and when the Irish civil war broke out, they had to reconsider their activities given they were well known to their former comrades. In that respect despatches were moved promptly. The shop was constantly raided during this period.

€15 sold of each copy of Gerard O’Rourke’s Land War to Civil War 1900-1924, Donoughmore to Cork and Beyond will be donated to cancer care services in Cork.

Caption:

1263a. Front cover of Gerard O’Rourke’s Land War to Civil War 1900-1924, Donoughmore to Cork and Beyond.

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 18 July 2024

1262a. Poster for Spirit of Mother Jones Festival 2024.
1262a. Poster for Spirit of Mother Jones Festival 2024.

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 18 July 2024

Spirit of Mother Jones Festival 2024

The Spirit of Mother Jones Festival, which celebrates the life and activities of Cork born Mary Harris, known throughout the world as Mother Jones is now in its 13th Year. It is organised by the Cork Mother Jones Committee, a voluntary community group in Shandon each year. The programme of events from between 25-27 July are on the festival website, www.motherjonescork.com

According to James Nolan, spokesperson, the 2024 festival edition builds upon the 2023 edition: “The 2023 Spirit of Mother Jones festival was without doubt one of the very best we’ve had. Hundreds of people from all corners of Ireland and across the world visited Shandon, and many events had a capacity audience. Trade union leader Mick Lynch was an outstanding speaker. He attracted a huge attendance to the Firkin Theatre and was delighted to be back in the city of his father and the extended Lynch family. All the speakers, musicians, singers, choirs, and many participating for the first time ensured a lively three days. Even the traditional Irish whiskey toast to Mother Jones was packed. We are already looking forward to the 2024 festival”.    

The festival committee aims to make the festival always memorable. The festival and summer school will consist of talks, discussions, songs, music, films and documentaries. They will be interesting, challenging and relevant. A number of standout highlights for the 2024 festival include the visit to Cork of Kentucky based Carla Gover and her band Cornmaiz from high up in the Appalachian mountains where Mother Jones was highly regarded.

The Festival is proud to present the Irish Premiere of Kaiulani Lee’s documentary on Mother Jones Fight Like Hell – The testimony of Mother Jones. Years in the making, it is being shown throughout the USA and it will be shown for the very first time in Ireland at the Dance Cork Firkin Theatre on Thursday 25th at 4pm on the opening evening of the festival.

Later that evening also at the Firkin theatre, Dublin historian Liz Gillis and Anne Twomey of Cork’s Shandon Area History group will discuss what became of the revolutionary women after the Civil War. The Decade of Centenaries has finished but the festival has decided to continue to tell the story of the virtual disappearance of most of that rebel generation of those women. Anne Twomey will concentrate on the life of Cork’s Winters Hill born Margaret Goulding Buckley, an amazing woman.

Julianna Minihan will present a fascinating paper on the historical provision of water in Cork city 1760-1890 and how the rich people benefitted from private supplies of fresh water, while the poor suffered from an unsanitary supply for many years until the public authorities took over the provision of water. And of course there will be mention of whatever became of the lost Shandon Dunscombe Fountain.

Historian Jack Lane will tell the story of the All for Ireland League and Irish Land & Labour League which were uniquely Cork movements. He will also tell of North Cork born D.D Sheehan MP and his efforts to house the rural labourers. Over 40,000 rural cottages were constructed in little over a decade from 1906 onwards.

The General Secretary of the Irish Congress of Trade Unions Owen Reidy will give a landmark speech on “The Future World of Work and the Place of Trade Unions” while Cork historian Luke Dineen will discuss Big Jim Larkin and his Cork connections on the 150th Anniversary year of his birth.

Current human rights issues and environmental problem will be discussed. Writer and Journalist Walaa Sabah will tell the story of how the Palestinians are surviving the condition in GAZA at present.

An environmental round table featuring the younger generation of climate activists such as Niamh Guiry, Claudia Hihetah and Dearbhla Richardson will take place on Friday afternoon.

Professor John Barry of Queens University Belfast will earlier examine alternative pathways for society instead of the consumption model of modern society.

These are just some of almost 30 events which are forming the Spirit of Mother Jones Festival and Summer School and they are all free and open to all in and around Shandon on the days and night of the festival. Thanks to the support of some Irish trade unions, the Cork City Council, Cathedral Credit Union and local businesses. Attendance at each event is on a first-come, first-seated basis, so booking is unnecessary.

Mary Harris was born in Cork in 1837 and was baptised by Fr John O’Mahony in the Cathedral of SS Mary’s & Anne on 1 August of that year. The Harris family lived through the Great Famine, which claimed thousands of lives in the slums of Cork City. They then survived the horrors of the coffin ships when the family emigrated to Toronto in the early 1850s.

   By 1860, Mary had qualified as a teacher and was teaching in Monroe, Michigan. She later worked as a dressmaker and married George Jones, an iron moulder, and who was a member of the International Iron Moulders Union.

Mary went to Chicago where she resumed her dressmaking, established a little business. Again disaster struck when on 9 October 1871 the great fire of Chicago destroyed her premises. Little is known of Mary for a decade or more however it seems that she became very active in the growing Labour movement which was then organising for fair pay and decent working conditions in the factories, mills and mines of a rapidly industrialising North America.

   In 1890, the United Mine Workers union was formed; many of the tough union organisers were Irish and Mary too became an organiser. She was nearly sixty years old. As a woman operating in a rough male world of miners and mining pits, she was utterly fearless. She was outspoken and she cut an inspirational figure, being immaculately dressed in her long black dress, bonnet and carrying a handbag amidst the industrial debris of coal pits.

   Mary witnessed the terrible conditions under which thousands of men, women and young children worked. In this decade she helped miners to demand better pay and conditions in Alabama, West Virginia, Colorado and Pennsylvania. She had become known as “Mother Jones” to countless thousands of workers. In 1903, Mother Jones led the March of the Mill Children from Pennsylvania to New York, in which highlighted the exploitation of young children in the mines and factories in America.

Caption:

1262a. Poster for Spirit of Mother Jones Festival 2024.

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 11 July 2024

1261a. View of Cork from Audley Place, c.1890 (source: Cork City Library).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 11 July 2024

Cork: A Potted History Selection

Cork: A Potted History is the title of my new local history book published by Amberley Press. The book is a walking trail, which can be physically pursued or you can simply follow it from your armchair. It takes a line from the city’s famous natural lake known just as The Lough across the former medieval core, ending in the historic north suburbs of Blackpool. This week is another section from the book. The book is available to buy from any good bookshop or online from the publisher.

Atop Fever Hospital Steps:

  The Fever Hospital had a distinguished career caring for Corkonians since 1802 until the mid twentieth century, located atop the steps adjacent Our Lady’s Well in Blackpool. It was founded by Corkman Dr Milner Barry, who introduced vaccination into Cork in 1800 and was the first to make it known to any Irish city. In 1824, a monument with a long laudatory inscription was erected in his memory in the grounds of the Fever Hospital by Corkonians.

An annual general meeting of the president and assistants of the Cork Fever Hospital and House of Recovery was held on 15 May 1917 in the Crawford Municipal School of Art. The annual report of the Hospital Committee was read by member Sir John Scott. He revealed that on 1 January 1917 there were thirty-seven patients in the hospital and 256 were admitted during 1916. This made a total number of 293 patients treated, compared with 500 during the year 1915. Of the patients treated, 253 were discharged and cured while eleven remained in hospital on 31 December 1916. There were twenty-four deaths during the year, and it was noted, with great regret, that many of them were only brought to the hospital in a ‘hopeless condition’.

Deducting these from the number of deaths, the mortality showed a low rate of 6 per cent, which was deemed by the committee as a ‘satisfactory outcome’ with dealing with dangerous life-taking fevers.

A regular call was made by the Fever Hospital urging upon Cork citizens the immense importance of prompt isolation and hospital treatment for cases of infectious diseases. Many of the cases treated came from the thickly populated districts the city. Of the cases admitted, 108 came from the north side of the city, fifty-four from the south side, fifty-three from the centre and twenty-five from the rural districts.

The hospital site was sold off in 1962 and the housing estate of Shandon Court now stands in its stead.

Views of Cork at Audley Place:

  When the Corporation of Cork invested in planning St Patrick’s Bridge in 1787, it opened up a new quarter for development. The 1790s coincided the creation of St Patrick’s Hill – an avenue from Bridge Street that aligned with an old windmill now incorporated into Audley House. The decade also coincided with an early MacCurtain Street – back then known as Strand Street and later King Street, then Summerhill North from 1820 onwards. Over the centuries, artists, travellers and antiquarians have tried to capture the essence of St Patrick’s Hill and the vista from Audley Place.

In more recent times, the view was captured by producers of The Young Offenders as its two main characters, Jock and Connor, chat about their lives on a bench. Ascent has always been difficult for any mode of transport, from horse and cart to cars. In 1988, the organisers of the cycle Tour de France held a section of their tour in Ireland and sent their competitors on a gruelling assent of St Patrick’s Hill. There is a spectacular view of the city at the top, especially of the northside suburbs of Blackpool, Gurrananbraher and northwards to Knocknaheeny and Farranree. The river can also be seen winding its way through the city, on its way to meet the waters of the Atlantic Ocean.

The origins of the name Audley Place or Bell’s Field have been lost to time. Bell’s Field may be a reference to a Major Bell who may have been connected to what is now nearby Collins Barracks. This view from the top is much loved and often photographed. It has been captured through numerous mediums: a sketch by historian Charles Smith in 1750, a painting by John Butts in the 1760s (now on display in the Crawford Art Gallery) and photographic postcards in the early nineteenth century among others.

The early depictions show the early growth of Blackpool as an industrial hub in the city with its myriad of chimneys reflecting the many tanneries and distilleries in the area. Many of these were established in the late eighteenth century. St Anne’s Shandon, with its ornate steeple, dominates all sketches and photographs. The tower is very symbolic of eighteenth-century expansion in Cork. The adjacent butter market, located off Shandon Street, remembers the golden age of prosperity and profit in the city.

A postcard from c. 1890 shows the minarets of St Mary’s and St Anne’s North Cathedral and echoes the social and physical change of nineteenth-century Victorian Cork. Just to the top of the early nineteenth-century photograph are farmed green fields, which were developed with housing estates in the early 1930s, a testament to the growing population of a city and a way to ease the slum conditions of the inner city.

Today, standing at the spot of the viewer, one can see the suburban growth in Knocknaheeny and further east in Farranree. Cork City Council are trying to encourage the recreational use of the area of the top of the hill by supplying seating and landscaping the general area.

Kieran’s Upcoming Walking Tours, no booking required, all two hours, all free.

Friday 5 July, Cork Through the Ages, An Introduction to the Historical Development of Cork City; meet at the National Monument, Grand Parade, 6.30pm. 

Sunday 7 July, The Northern Ridge – St Patrick’s Hill to MacCurtain Street; meet on the Green at Audley Place, top of St Patrick’s Hill, 6.30pm.

Sunday 14 July, Cork South Docklands; meet at Kennedy Park, Victoria Road, 6.30pm. 

Tuesday 16 July, The Marina; meet at western end adjacent Shandon Boat Club, The Marina, 6.30pm. 

Wednesday 17 July, Blackpool: Its History and Heritage; meet at square on St Mary’s Road, opp North Cathedral, 6.30pm.

Caption:

1261a. View of Cork from Audley Place, c.1890 (source: Cork City Library).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 27 June 2024

1259a. Bust of Gerald Griffin located in North Monastery Secondary School (picture: Kieran McCarthy).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 27 June 2024

Cork: A Potted History Selection

Cork: A Potted History is the title of my new local history book published by Amberly Press. The book is a walking trail, which can be physically pursued or you can simply follow it from your armchair. It takes a line from the city’s famous natural lake known just as The Lough across the former medieval core, ending in the historic north suburbs of Blackpool. This week is another section from the book.

Patriotism and Gerald Griffin Street:

  Gerald Griffin Street was formerly called Mallow Lane. In 1832, Mallow Lane was renamed Clarence Street after the Duke of Clarence, who was an outspoken advocate of Catholic emancipation. Born in Limerick, Gerald Griffin (1803–40) was a poet, playwright and Irish novelist. In 1823, he emigrated to London and got a job as a reporter for one of the daily papers. He later turned to writing fiction. One of his most famous works is The Irish Collegians, which was written about the murder of the Colleen Bawn in 1820.

In 1838 Gerald joined the Christian Brothers at the North Monastery and burned all of his unpublished manuscripts. He died from typhus fever at the age of thirty-six. In November 1898, the motion of Cllr John O’Neil of Cork Corporation was accepted to change the name of Clarence Street to Gerald Griffin Street. Gerald Griffin has a street named after him in Limerick City and another in Cork City, Ireland. Loughill/Ballyhahill GAA club in west Limerick play under the name of Gerald Griffins.

Presentation Sisters Convent Site:

  The Presentation Sisters Convent Complex is striking on Gerald Griffin Street. Nano Nagle opened her first school in 1754 with around thirty students. It was on Cove Lane, on what is now the site of Nano Nagle Place on Douglas Street. She was a great educator and believed education was the key to a better life for people. Within nine months she was educating 200 girls, and by 1757 she had opened seven schools – five for girls and two for boys.

Nano Nagle (1718–84) set up three small hovel schools in the north parish. The first was in Philpott-Curran Lane at the back of the cathedral presbytery and was the school for girls. The others were at the end of Shandon Street and strictly for boys. One was located on the left-hand side, at the very end of Shandon Street, an attic at the top of a four-storey house, while the other was on the little lane running at the side of where O’Connor’s Funeral Home now stands at the North Gate Bridge.

It was in the year 1799 that the Presentation Sisters came to live in the north parish. Bishop Moylan sent four ladies to South Presentation for training, and after taking their vows they returned to a Philpott Curran Lane. A local lady, Barbara Goold, had a second storey added onto her house and the sisters lived there while teaching hundreds of children until 15 January 1813.

The sisters needed a convent and a school and Bishop Moylan asked local priest Fr John England to take on the project. It took a long time to find enough money to buy a site; they eventually purchased a site at Hill Grove Lane from the Tanning Yard.

The infant school was replaced in 1871 through a plan to enlarge the schoolrooms and facilities. It was formerly opened on 16 January 1872. It was designed by Sir John Benson and built by Edmund and Peter O’Flynn. It is now disused. A modern Presentation School stands nearby.

As well as a school, a presentation convent and chapel were built. The chapel, which is said to date between 1820 and 1830, is thought to be the work of Presentation Brother and architect Revd Michael Augustine Riordan, who was also involved in the Ursuline Convent in Blackrock. To the north is the four-storey convent building, built c. 1830. The present primary school was built in 1965–67 and the old building was then used as a secondary school until the group moved to Farranree in 1976.

Madden’s Buildings:

 The Artisans and Labourers Dwellings Improvements Acts of 1875 and the Housing of the Working Classes Act of 1890 detailed the importance of eradicating tenement or slum housing. At that time no significant financial aid was available to carry out large-scale clearance.

However, Cork Corporation did make an effort. In 1886, new houses were built in Blackpool on the site of an old cattle market. A total of seventy-six houses were planned and built comprising a kitchen, front living room and two overhead bedrooms. The contractor was Edward Fitzgerald and by the end of 1886 they were ready for occupation.

 Named the Madden’s Buildings after the mayor of the time, Paul Madden, these new houses were to set the scene for a further three housing schemes before the turn of the 1900s. These comprised of Ryan’s Buildings, built in 1888 (sixteen houses), the Horgan’s Buildings in 1891 (126 houses) and the Roche’s Buildings in 1892 (128 houses). All of these buildings are still lived in by a new generation of Corkonians.

Captions:

1259a. Bust of Gerald Griffin located in North Monastery Secondary School (picture: Kieran McCarthy).

1259b. Maddens Buildings, present day (picture: Kieran McCarthy).

1259b. Maddens Buildings, present day (picture: Kieran McCarthy).