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Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 25 August 2022

 1165a. Memorial at Béal na Bláth, County Cork, present day (picture: Kieran McCarthy).
1165a. Memorial at Béal na Bláth, County Cork, present day (picture: Kieran McCarthy).

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Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 25 August 2022

Journeys to a Free State: The Death of Michael Collins

Just over a week after reclaiming Cork City for the Irish Provisional Government, General Emmet Dalton played host to National Army Commander in Chief Michael Collins. On Sunday, 20 August 1922, Michael arrived from Dublin with his convoy to begin checking out the Republican manoeuvres in West Cork.

Dalton later recalled that he advised Collins that being in Cork was an ‘unnecessary risk’. Collins responded, “Nobody will shoot me in my own county”. Two days later, Dalton was travelling with Collins in his touring car in West Cork when their convoy was ambushed at Béal na Bláth some short few miles from Bandon.

It was on 22 August at about 7.15pm-7.30pm when the convoy consisting of a motorcycle outrider, a touring car, a Crossley tender and an armoured car were halted by a barricade on a bend in the road. Michael and his convoy took shelter on the side of the road.

In a very insightful section on an RTE documentary in 1978, entitled Emmet Dalton Remembers, it covers the life and times of the Major General. It was first broadcast following his death in March 1978. It was made in the final eighteenth months of his life. The programme is currently posted on YouTube. Dalton at eighty years of age is interviewed at Béal na Bláth.

Dalton recalls that once the ambush started that he and Collins got out and some fellow soldiers got off the Crossley tender and they hid behind a small ditch. It gave them cover from the angle from which the firing was coming, which was up from around 200 yards.

Dalton recalls: “From the volume that was there I would say that there were but a half a dozen at the most – firing rifles. A chosen ambush position is always perilous, and this was obviously a very bad position. There was no area for retreat. There was only one thing that we could have done was drive on. which I said to the Commander in Chief – ‘drive like hell’ but he elected to stop here and fight them, so we did…We were stretched out. We wouldn’t have been piled on top of each other…The spot where we were was one continuous bend of bank and the other members sheltered were firing obliquely across”.

Dalton relates that he saw action and indications of rifle fire. There were 15 to 20 minutes maximum of action on both sides. The motorcyclist came back and said that the obstruction had been cleared. So that it was then possible for them to have driven on. With one eye on Collins and after ten minutes of engagement. Dalton witnessed Collins getting up and moving to the back of the armoured car. He used it as protection to have a better sight of what was happening on the hill above. Then he moved from there up around the bend out of Dalton’s vision but he was firing from up ahead.

Dalton recalls that he thought he heard some of his convoy calling him; “I jumped up on at that stage O’Connell had been up the road to me and he said where’s the Big Fella so I said he’s around the corner around the bend. We both went up there and he had been shot. He was lying there with a very gaping wound to the back of his head…So I called the armoured car back and we lifted him and took him unto the side of the armoured car, we moved behind the armoured car with the armoured car between us and their firing position. We got him to the position on the side of the road. Under protection of the armoured car, I bandaged the wound and O’Connell said an act of contrition to him. I knew he was dying, if not already dead, so we did the best we could to cover it up [the wound].

All action at this stage practically had stopped. Except while they were lifting the body onto the armoured car, the motorcycle scout lieutenant Smith had come forward to give his help. In doing so there was an odd shot came and he was shot through the neck. It was a clean wound and he carried on helping them.

Collins’ wound was a very large wound open wound in the back of the head. On the wound Dalton recalls; “It was difficult for me to get a first aid field bandage to cover it. When I was binding it up – it was quite obvious to me – with the experience I had – it was a ricochet bullet. It could only have been a ricochet or a dum-dum. there was no exit wound…I felt he was dying or dead by the time I reached him. We were both very upset as you can well understand emotionally, and the rest of the word got around to the rest of our column. We got them together and moved quietly down the road and we moved Collins’ body from the armoured car situation onto the touring car back”.

Dalton sat in and carried Collin’s weight on his shoulder in the car and they drove off back to towards their home base of Cork. He remembers a tough journey back to Cork City. “It was a troublesome journey; we had encountered a lot of trouble and bother on the way because the roads were blocked. We had at one stage to go through a farmyard and came out on the other side. It took us quite a long time because we didn’t reach Cork City on 12 midnight”. To this day, there is no consensus as to who fired the fatal shot. 

Caption:

1165a. Memorial at Béal na Bláth, County Cork, present day (picture: Kieran McCarthy).

NTA, Bus Connects & The Mangala Bridge and Grange Road Proposals, 22 August 2022

Extract from letter to residents in Shamrock Lawn and along Grange Road:

Several local residents have been in contact with me regarding the seriousness of the Mangala Bridge proposal and the widening of the Grange Road proposal, which are proposals, which lay in the hands of the National Transport Authority (NTA) – and are not voted upon by the elected members of Cork City Council.

As part of the NTA’s Kinsale Road to Douglas Bus Corridor proposal, a 20 metre wide bridge is being proposed over the Ballybrack stream valley from Donnybrook Hill to the Carrigaline Road. The proposed bridge for buses, cars and bicycles over the green space would take out huge sections of Ballybrack Woods – possibly over 50 %.

A second proposal is to bring the Grange Road boundary 4-5 metres closer to houses fronting onto the road including Shamrock Close, Shamrock Drive and Grange Avenue – to eliminate the current tree line and to replant trees at new locations along the proposed new road.

I know how much the Mangala space is used and cherished by the local population as well as the Grange Road boundary.

The main website is www.busconnects.ie/cork/ where the different bus corridor proposals can also be viewed.  P.46 of the Kinsale Road to Douglas proposed bus corridor has the colour version of the map I have copied on the back of the letter.

https://busconnects.ie/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/STC-K-Kinsale-Road-to-Douglas-20.06.22-FA-WEB.pdf

I have also posted a short film on YouTube outlining the areas effected; search for “Save Ballybrack Woods”.

Please make an online submission on Bus Connects Cork at www.busconnects.ie/cork/ or by pen. Be honest and write about how you feel about the proposal.

In light of the seriousness of the proposals and the many queries I am getting from local residents, I will host an information meeting on this Thursday evening, 25 August, 6.30-7pm on Inchvale Road green, next to the entrance to St Columbas Schools where further queries can be asked.

NTA Mangala Bridge proposal, July 2022
NTA Mangala Bridge proposal, July 2022
Site of Mangala Bridge, present day (picture: Kieran McCarthy)
Site of Mangala Bridge, present day (picture: Kieran McCarthy)

Kieran’s Press, A history-making time for our city’: New exhibition launched in Cork Public Museum, 21 August 2022

21 August 2022, “Sometimes in the history of Cork, we tend to silo-ise that history, we talk about the Burning of Cork, the deaths of Tomás Mac Curtain and Terence MacSwiney, which were really important, there’s also the Civil War aspect and the fallout of that, but someone had to pick up the pieces, and we don’t always talk about the people who picked up the pieces,” Cllr McCarthy said, A history-making time for our city’: New exhibition launched in city museum,  ‘A history-making time for our city’: New exhibition launched in city museum (echolive.ie)

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 18 August 2022

1164a. Armoured Car with National Army soldiers on Union Quay, Cork, 10 August 1922, photograph by W D Hogan (source: National Library, Ireland).
1164a. Armoured Car with National Army soldiers on Union Quay, Cork, 10 August 1922, photograph by W D Hogan (source: National Library, Ireland).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 18 August 2022

Journeys to a Free State: The Re-taking of Cork City

Kilkenny-born journalist Frank Geary (1891-1961) had a front row seat of the unfolding Irish Civil War. In 1922 he joined the Irish Independent as a staff reporter. On 3 August 1922, he was sent by his editor to cover the unfolding Civil War in Cork. To get to Cork he had to sail via Liverpool because all Irish regional roads were blocked, but he was then the first to get news out of Cork. 

Frank’s notes, which have survived and have been published, recall the landing of the National Army under General Emmet Dalton and their advance to Cork City to clear the retreating Irregulars or Republicans. His account of the days of the Battle of Rochestown is told from his perspective of being in the city and viewing the manoeuvres of the Irregulars as they tried to send reinforcements to Rochestown and the attempt to retain the city.

By Thursday morning 10 August 1922, the Irregulars retreated from Rochestown and blocked the roads at several other points, in order to delay the advance of the National soldiers. Early on Thursday afternoon, the National forces reached Douglas, and the Irregulars commenced evacuating Cork City, which was occupied by the National troops before night fall.

Frank recalls that by mid-Thursday afternoon that there was repeated activity of Irregulars all over the city. Bands of men with rifles flung over their shoulders were marching around. The Imperial Hotel, the County Club and the Ex-Soldiers League had again been vacated. News was being distributed that the National Army were advancing on the city. A Republican War News had been published by Irregulars and was being sold on the streets. It comprised three or four pages of typewritten text.

Frank stood on the opposite bank to Union Quay barracks. Outside the barracks there was an assortment of motor vehicles of all kinds and descriptions – lorries, five-seaters, two-seaters, and bicycles and sidecars. Big crowds still congregated around the quays. A messenger arrived at the barracks. Almost out of breath, he gave a message with desperate haste.  Men ran here and there into the building and out of it. A number of the irregulars rushed on to the road. They got around a big five-ton lorry. They pushed it and got it going, and then, splash, it was in the adjacent River Lee.

 Frank continues: “The men rush to another car, a fine five-seater. They push it into the river. Another and another and another and yet another meet with similar fates before the horrified gaze of the crowd. Several motorcycles, many of them with sidecars, were pushed into the water. One pretty little two-seater motor car just gets caught in the woodwork on the quay and doesn’t fall. It hangs there, betwixt and between, a funny-looking sight. The whole quayside is now cleared”.

At 3pm, suddenly Frank witnessed a volley of rifle and revolver shots ringing out. People ran and sought refuge in every open door. The volleys were apparently been fired as a warning for, as minutes later there was a loud resounding boom. A dense volume of black smoke burst up from the barracks, followed by the crash of falling masonry. Smoke arose from every window, from every chimney, even from between the very slates. In other parts of the city, there were explosions in other Republican strongholds followed by smoke and fire. Elizabeth Fort, off Barrack Street, the Bridewell in Cornmarket Street, Tuckey Street police barracks, Empress Place police barracks and high up on its hill Victoria Barracks was also in flames.

Frank writes of a city that had fallen and which was destroyed by smoke and the stench of burning buildings: “Cork has fallen. The irregulars are evacuating. As it was in Limerick they are going, going, going! Explosion follows explosion with terrifying rapidity. Cork has been my worst experience from this point of view. Like the waters of many rivers converging into a big lake, the smoke of many fires has converged into one dense mass, which hangs like a deadly pall over the whole city. The air below, as it were, is imprisoned and one stifles with the heat, the oppressive heat, and the acrid smell of burning buildings”.

In the midst of the burning Frank describes that looting had begun, and parades of men, women and children flocked to the burning buildings and take everything they can lay their hands on – motor-bicycles, wardrobes, beds, chairs, tables were amongst the materials looted. People even braved the danger of exploding bullets and bombs, and physically went into the burning buildings and carry away various articles of furniture.

At 4pm Frank describes that there was another big explosion. This one was an attempt to blow up the Parnell Bridge. It was only partially successful. A big gaping hole was blown in the wooden groundwork and part of the steel work was rent asunder and twisted like a piece of paper. Pedestrian traffic over the bridge is still possible.

By 5pm large crowds of citizens thronged the streets. Frank writes that there was not a shop open in the city. At the first explosion all the shops were quickly shuttered and closed down. All the factories and workshops in and around the city were also closed. The tramway service, too, was suspended, and was not resumed that evening. Just before the Irregulars departed they also visited the General Post Office and wrecked the telegraphic department. The telephone exchange was also visited and here the apparatus was also smashed. Several bridges on the main line to Dublin were also blown up hampering any railway communications.

By 7.30pm, the announcement spread that National army troops had arrived and were actually in the city – they were crossing Parnell Bridge. The first of them was preceded by an armoured car. The advance guard came slowly. Frank details that tens of thousands of citizens thronged the thoroughfares to view the scene. The following day Frank travelled onto Waterford by boat to write about his experiences there.

My thanks to Billy Collins for alerting me to Frank Geary’s story.

Kieran’s Remaining National Heritage Week tours:

Thursday 18 August 2022, Views from a Park – The Black Ash and Tramore Valley Park, historical walking tour in association with the KinShip Project; meet at Halfmoon Lane gate, 6.30pm (90 minutes; no booking required). 

Saturday 20 August 2022, Douglas and its History, historical walking tour in association with Douglas Tidy Towns; Discover the history of industry and the development of this historic village, meet in the carpark of Douglas Community Centre, 2pm (no booking required, circuit of village, finishes nearby). 

Sunday 21 August 2022, The Battle of Douglas, An Irish Civil War Story, historical walking tour, meet at carpark and entrance to Old Railway Line, Harty’s Quay, Rochestown; 2pm, (free, 2 hours, no booking required, finishes near Rochestown Road). 

Caption:

1164a. Armoured Car with National Army soldiers on Union Quay, Cork, 10 August 1922, photograph by W D Hogan (source: National Library, Ireland).

Cllr McCarthy: Welcome for the Public Consultation on Road Safety Plans for Our Lady of Lourdes School Junctions, 15 August 2022

Cllr McCarthy noted: “In the last few weeks Cork City Council has been successful in its bid to a Central Government Road safety scheme to implement measures at the junctions adjacent Our Lady of Lourdes School. The provision of funding is very positive and responds to much public and local political pressure over many years to make the junctions safer”.

Independent Cllr Kieran McCarthy warmly welcomes proposals now out to public consultation for road safety measures at the junctions of Bellair Estate, Ballinlough Road and Wallace’s Avenue. The proposals include the construction of two table top raised areas at the junctions of Bellair Estate and Ballinlough Road, and Wallace’s Avenue with Ballinlough Road, respectively, and a zebra crossing from Our Lady of Lourdes School to the current Bean Brownie shop.

“It is also proposed to reconstruct and improve footpaths in the vicinity of both junctions, and modify and improve public lighting, road markings and road signage. In the early discussions on design a controlled crossing was ruled out due to people’s driveways adjacent to the junction”, concluded Cllr McCarthy.

The public consultation is open from Wednesday 3 August 2022 until 4pm on Thursday 15 September 2022. 

The full set of drawings and maps are on Cork City Council’s Online Consultation Portal at https://consult.corkcity.ie or at the public reception desk of Cork City Council, City Hall, Anglesea Street, Cork between the hours of 9am-4pm, Monday to Friday excluding bank holidays.

View the project here: Part 8 Planning – L1005 Ballinlough Road Junction Improvement Scheme | Cork City Council’s Online Consultation Portal

Submissions and observations with respect to the proposed development can be made on the Consult website above or in writing to “Executive Engineer, Traffic Operations, Room 338, City Hall, Anglesea Street, Cork”.

Second Call Out – Kieran’s National Heritage Week Events, 13 August-21 August 2022

Saturday 13 August 2022, A Tour of Cork City Hall as part of Cork Heritage Open Day, with Cllr Kieran McCarthy, 10am, meet at entrance at Anglesea Street (90 minutes, booking required at Cork Heritage Open Day website with Cork City Council, from 3 August 2022). Update, 5 August, booked out.

Sunday 14 August 2022, Cork Through the Ages, An Introduction to the Historical Development of Cork City; meet at the National Monument with Cllr Kieran McCarthy, Grand Parade, 6.30pm (free, 2 hours, no booking required). 

Monday 15 August 2022, Shandon Historical Walking Tour with Cllr Kieran McCarthy; explore Cork’s most historic quarter; meet at North Main Street/ Adelaide Street Square, opp Cork Volunteer Centre, 6.30pm (free, duration: two hours, no booking required).  

Tuesday 16 August 2022, The Northern Ridge – St Patrick’s Hill to MacCurtain Street; Historical walking tour with Cllr Kieran McCarthy of the area around St Patrick’s Hill – Old Youghal Road to McCurtain Street; meet on the Green at Audley Place, top of St Patrick’s Hill, 6.30pm (free , duration: two hours, no booking required). 

Thursday 18 August 2022, Views from a Park – The Black Ash and Tramore Valley Park, historical walking tour with Cllr Kieran McCarthy in association with the KinShip Project; meet at Halfmoon Lane gate, 6.30pm (free, duration: 90 minutes no booking required). 

Saturday 20 August 2022, Douglas and its History, historical walking tour with Cllr Kieran McCarthy in association with Douglas Tidy Towns; Discover the history of industry and the development of this historic village, meet in the carpark of Douglas Community Centre, 2pm (free, duration: two hours, no booking required, circuit of village, finishes nearby). 

Sunday 21 August 2022, The Battle of Douglas, An Irish Civil War Story, historical walking tour with Cllr Kieran McCarthy, meet at carpark and entrance to Old Railway Line, Harty’s Quay, Rochestown; 2pm, (free, 2 hours, no booking required, finishes near Rochestown Road). 

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 11 August 2022

1163a. Cork City Hall, one of Kieran’s National Heritage Week tour sites, 13-21 August 2022 (picture: Kieran McCarthy).
1163a. Cork City Hall, one of Kieran’s National Heritage Week tour sites, 13-21 August 2022 (picture: Kieran McCarthy).

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 11 August 2022

Kieran’s Heritage Week Tours, 13-21 August 2022

It is great to be back to physical tours after a hiatus of two years with Covid. So far this summer, my tours across the city’s suburbs for locals have, in particular, been very busy. Certainly, the Covid period and this post Covid era has brought a renewed interest in people’s local areas and their development and sense of place. The tours I have chosen for National Heritage Week this year are all important areas in the city’s development plus they all have a unique sense of place and identity. I will host seven tours, and all are free. There is no booking required bar the one for Cork City Hall for Cork Heritage Open Day.

 Saturday 13 August 2022, A Tour of Cork City Hall as part of Cork Heritage Open Day, 10am, meet at entrance at Anglesea Street entrance (90 minutes, booking required from Cork Heritage Open Day website with Cork City Council).

Learn about the early history of Cork City Hall and Cork City Council; learn about the development of the building and visit the Lord Mayor’s Room. The current structure replaced the old City Hall, which was destroyed in the Burning of Cork in 1920. It was designed by Architects Jones and Kelly and built by the Cork Company Sisks. The foundation stone was laid by Eamon de Valera, President of the Executive Council of the Irish Free State, on 9 July 1932.

Sunday 14 August 2022, Cork Through the Ages, An Introduction to the Historical Development of Cork City; meet at the National Monument, Grand Parade, 6.30pm (2 hours, no booking required). 

 Cork City city possesses a unique character derived from a combination of its plan, topography, built fabric and its location on the lowest crossing point of the river Lee as it meets the tidal estuary and the second largest natural harbour in the world. Indeed, it is also a city that is unique among other cities, it is the only one which has experienced all phases of Irish urban development, from circa 600AD to the present day. This tour explores the city’s earliest historical phases.

Monday 15 August 2022, Shandon Historical Walking Tour; explore Cork’s most historic quarter; meet at North Main Street/ Adelaide Street Square, opp. Cork Volunteer Centre, 6.30pm (2 hours, no booking required).  

 Tradition is one way to sum up the uniqueness of Shandon Street. Despite being a physical street, one can stroll down (or clamber up), the thoroughfare holds a special place in the hearts of many Corkonians.  The legacy of by-gone days is rich. The street was established by the Anglo-Normans as a thoroughfare to give access to North Gate Drawbridge and was originally known as Mallow Lane. Shandon Street locals identify with the special old qualities of the street. Different architectural styles reflect not only the street’s long history but also Cork’s past.

Tuesday 16 August 2022, The Northern Ridge – St Patrick’s Hill to MacCurtain StreetHistorical walking tour of the area around St Patrick’s Hill – Old Youghal Road to McCurtain Street; meet on the Green at Audley Place, top of St Patrick’s Hill, 6.30pm (2 hours, no booking required; finishes on MacCurtain Street). 

This is a tour that brings the participant from the top of St Patrick’s Hill to the eastern end of McCurtain Street through Wellington Road. The tour will speak about the development of the Collins Barracks ridge and its hidden and interesting architectural heritage.

Thursday 18 August 2022, Views from a Park – The Black Ash and Tramore Valley Park, historical walking tour in association with the KinShip Project; meet at Halfmoon Lane gate, 6.30pm (90 minutes; no booking required). 

 The Tramore Valley Park tour will explore the development of the area from being a swamp through to being a landfill and then onto being an artificial mound to enable the development of a park. Historically William Petty’s 1655 map of the city and its environs marks the site of Tramore Valley Park as Spittal Lands, a reference to the original local environment and the backing up of the Trabeg and Tramore tributary rivers as they enter the Douglas River channel. Of course, there are green spaces scattered across the city but none with the same scale of development and story as the 160 acre site off Kinsale Road. This is a site where the city’s environment has also been a regular topic of debate across local newspapers and in the city’s council political chamber.

Saturday 20 August 2022, Douglas and its History, historical walking tour in association with Douglas Tidy Towns; Discover the history of industry and the development of this historic village, meet in the carpark of Douglas Community Centre, 2pm (no booking required, circuit of village, finishes nearby). 

The story of Douglas and its environs is in essence a story of experimentation, of industry and of people and social improvement. The story of one of Ireland largest sailcloth factories is a worthwhile topic to explore in terms of its aspiration in its day in the eighteenth century. That coupled with the creation of forty or so seats or mansions and demesnes made it a place where the city’s merchants made their home it. Douglas makes also makes for an interesting place to study as many historical legacies linger in village’s surrounding landscapes.

Sunday 21 August 2022, The Battle of Douglas, An Irish Civil War Story, historical walking tour, meet at carpark and entrance to Old Railway Line, Harty’s Quay, Rochestown; 2pm, (free, 2 hours, no booking required, finishes near Rochestown Road). 

The Battle of Douglas is a three day Irish Civil War battle, which occurred from 7-10 August 1922. In particular, the battle sprawled across the heart of Rochestown Road to Garryduff. Across fields and woodlands, Anglo Irish Treaty supporters faced off against Anti-Treaty forces. Aiming to take Cork City, General Emmet Dalton of the National Army of the Irish Provisional Government led over 450 men, with two artillery pieces and armoured cars, all of whom landed at Passage West.

Caption:

1163a. Cork City Hall, one of Kieran’s National Heritage Week tour sites, 13-21 August 2022 (picture: Kieran McCarthy).

Press, Ready to take part in Cork Heritage Open Day, 10 August 2022

A walk around some of my head space – Great to be involved in this “Person to Person” article in tonight’s Echo ahead of National Heritage Week next week, https://www.echolive.ie/corklives/arid-40936976.html

The City Hall tour on Saturday 13 August is booked out but all the rest require no booking and all are free!

Here is the link to all my historical walking tours starting this Sunday, 14 August, http://kieranmccarthy.ie/?page_id=122677 tours! Game on!

Public Consultation Launch of Road Safety Improvements at Ballinlough Road, Wallace’s Avenue and Bellair Estate Junctions, 4 August 2022

Proposals for Road Safety Improvements at Ballinlough Road, Wallace’s Avenue and Bellair Estate Junctions, 4 August 2022 (image: Cork City Council)
Proposals for Road Safety Improvements at Ballinlough Road, Wallace’s Avenue and Bellair Estate Junctions, 4 August 2022 (image: Cork City Council)

In the last few weeks though funding for a second but separate Cork City Council project/ contract for the top of the junction of Bellair Estate with Ballinlough Road has also come to fruition. This is a response to public and local political pressure over many years to make the junction safer.

The proposals include the construction of two table top raised areas at the junctions of Bellair Estate and Ballinlough Road, and Wallace’s Avenue with Ballinlough Road, respectively, and a zebra crossing from Our Lady of Lourdes School to the current Bean Brownie shop. In the early discussions on design a controlled crossing was ruled out due to people’s driveways adjacent to the junction.

It is also proposed to reconstruct and improve footpaths in the vicinity of both junctions, and modify and improve public lighting, road markings and road signage.

The public consultation is open from Wednesday 3 August 2022 until 4pm on Thursday 15 September 2022.

The full set of drawings and maps are on Cork City Council’s Online Consultation Portal at https://consult.corkcity.ie or atthe public reception desk of Cork City Council, City Hall, Anglesea Street, Cork between the hours of 9am-4pm, Monday to Friday excluding bank holidays.

Submissions and observations with respect to the proposed development can be made on the Consult website above or in writing to “Executive Engineer, Traffic Operations, Room 338, City Hall, Anglesea Street, Cork.

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town, 4 August 2022

Kieran’s Our City, Our Town Article,

Cork Independent, 4 August 2022

Journeys to a Free State: The Battle of Douglas

Over the next weekend, 5-8 August, the town of Passage will be the host to a series of major historical events. The inspiring committee of the Passage West Maritime Museum is currently engaged, with the specific aim of furthering reconciliation, in an initiative to acknowledge the centenary of one of the most significant events of the Irish Civil War – the 1922 Battle of Douglas.

In the early hours of 8 August 1922, the cross-channel steamers SS Arvonia and SS Lady Wicklow, with more than 450 Irish Free State troops on board, sailed into Cork Harbour and berthed at Passage West dockyards. In the days that followed, prolonged fighting took place as Anti-Treaty forces struggled to curb the advance of the national army troops. Although the precise figure has never been conclusively established, up to twenty fatalities (with many more wounded) are estimated to have occurred during fierce battles in and around Rochestown, Oldcourt Wood and Garryduff.

The museum’s website http://passagemuseum.ie has a full and impressive programme of events. Among the events to be held throughout the weekend will be re-enactment displays, with armoured car and 18-pounder field guns, a special exhibition at Passage West Maritime Museum, guest panels of speakers, walking tours, unveiling of commemorative plaques at Passage and Garryduff upper, and schools’ projects. Members of the defence forces, RNLI and community groups will be attending.

Among those visiting from throughout the country will be archaeologists from University College Dublin, who will be arranging an open artefact day. They have requested that anyone with memorabilia, including photos or other historical items from around that period may like to come to have it appraised. The items can be brought along on the day, or any member of the museum committee can be contacted in the meantime.

The centenary event is one which brings together much information and it really is the first public attempt since 1922 to mark the battle of Douglas. The programme of events is inspired by the great series of community historical events, which the Maritime Museum’s committee have hosted over many years now. The work of UCC historians such as Dr John Borgonovo have been crucial and his book The Battle of Douglas (2011 & published by Mercier Press, and still available) has been very important in placing a focus on the events in the past few years. The revisiting by John and others in the Atlas of the Irish Revolution (UCC Press) has inspired others such as historian Niall Murray and archaeologist Damian Shiels in exploring what kind of archaeology has survived from the battle between Passage West and Garryduff. In addition, there is a very rich local history in all the battle locations, which is an aspect I have tried to connect to in my recent walking tours across the battle’s site.

Throughout July 1922 Irish Free State supporters collected intelligence on Cork Republican defensive positions across Munster. In early August 1922, the largest seaborne landings took place in the south. Ships disembarked about 2,000 well equipped Free State troops into the heart of the “Munster [IRA] Republic” and caused the rapid collapse of the Republican position in this province. On Tuesday 8 August 1922, Free State forces landed at Youghal, Union Hall and Passage West.

The Passage West assault was led by General Emmet Dalton. At just 24 years old, he had First World War combat experience, having won the Military Cross while still a teenager. He had led quite large bodies of British troops, and also studied guerrilla warfare during his later IRA service. The Cork city landing contingent comprised 450 soldiers from the 2nd Eastern Division of the National Army’s Eastern Command. Some came from the Dublin Guards battalion, which had participated in the recent Dublin fighting and comprised former IRA veterans.

Emmet Dalton’s plan was to enter Cork Harbour, follow the River Lee all the way to Cork and dock at the Ford tractor factory’s marina. The SS Lady Wicklow carried about twenty soldiers and initially acted as a scout ship, running before the packed SS Arvonia. The Harbour pilot was Joey O’Halloran, a Republican. He refused to guide the invading force into Cork, citing the Republican dreadnoughts and sea mines upriver. Dalton selected Passage West to dock in the early hours of Tuesday morning of 8 August 1922.

Republicans hustled to Rochestown, where they met gathering IRA Volunteers. Across the river, Cobh Republicans threw themselves into the emerging contest. IRA riflemen took up positions around Carrigaloe, and began heavy firing on the two ships. At 4am, IRA engineers blew up Fota railway bridge, severing the Cork/Cobh rail line. This seems to have been part of a predetermined defensive response to an expected landing in Cobh. A little later, about 4am on Tuesday morning, the Irregulars set off a mine placed under the bridge on the main road at Rochestown station and was destroyed.

When daylight came the whole Passage West to Douglas area was occupied by Irregulars, numbering several hundred. They had machine guns in position at various point with no less than three having been set up at Rochestown Cross.

Obstructed in lower Rochestown and under fire the National Army troops needed to secure higher ground, so they could get around and above IRA defences on the Cork road. The Republicans attempted to counter these attacks, which resulted in heavy fighting around Old Court Wood, between Rochestown and Douglas, about a mile inland. During the afternoon, heavy rifle and machine-gun fire erupted in this labyrinth of fields, narrow country lanes and woodlands.

By Thursday morning 10 August 1922, the Irregulars retreated from Rochestown and blocked the roads at several other points, in order to delay the advance of the National soldiers. Early on Thursday afternoon, the National forces reached Douglas, and the Irregulars commenced evacuating Cork City, which was occupied by the National troops before night fall.

Passage West Maritime Museum hosts commemorative events, 5-8 August 2022, see their website http://passagemuseum.ie/for more. Dr John Borgonovo’s book The Battle of Douglas (2011), is still available from Mercier Press.

Kieran’s National Heritage Week tours, 13-20 August are also posted up under Heritage Events at www.corkheritage.ie

Caption:

1162a. Irish Free State Troops bound for Cork Harbour on the SS Arvonia, 7August 1922 (picture: WD Hogan Collection, National Library of Ireland).